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249517 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑07‑26 | How to fix bent scissors? |
Wiss inlaid scissors, 9in overall. One of the blades has a long bend in it (no kink), resulting in a 1/8 curve along the cutting edge. I have hammers, vises, a small piece RR track and can heat the blade if need be. How best to proceed? Don |
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249520 | Kenneth Stagg <kenneth.stagg@g...> | 2014‑07‑26 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
I agree with Gary. This type of bend makes them much more reliable when cutting very thin items. The copy edit sissors that I have used all had something similar, when they were fully closed there was a noticable gap at the pivot end. Now, if the bend is the other direction I think you're probably out of luck. -Ken On Saturday, July 26, 2014, Gary Katsanis |
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249522 | JAMES THOMPSON <oldmillrat@m...> | 2014‑07‑26 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
Is the curve actually that much? Have you measured it with a feeler gauge to see what the actual amount of curve is? All good shears have some curve in one blade, but an actual 1/8" seems excessive. Check it and let us know what the actual amount is. We can go from there. On Jul 26, 2014, at 2:03 PM, Don Schwartz |
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249524 | JAMES THOMPSON <oldmillrat@m...> | 2014‑07‑26 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
OK! Now we know what's wrong. I once had a gorgeous long chisel which had a bend in it, not much, but it just wasn't right. So I says to myself, I says, self, you can fix this. And self said, Yes, I can. I mean, if it bent this way, then I can bend it back, right??? Of course! So I took it to my anvil and used a brass hammer, and I smacked it just once. That's all it took to break it cleanly in half. It is no longer a problem. It went to the recycle bin. You can fix your scissors, just like I fixed my chisel. It's easy. But it will ruin your day. :>) The inlaid portion of the blade is hardened. It will probably break. But it's not much good like it is anyway, right? Smack that puppy! Then tell us the sad story of this scissor rejuvenation. On Jul 26, 2014, at 3:47 PM, Don Schwartz |
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249525 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑07‑26 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
One blade is quite straight, the other veers off like a fork in the road. I measured the separation at the tips with a rule. The inside of the bent shear (the meeting surface) is convex, not concave. Don On 7/26/2014 4:43 PM, JAMES THOMPSON wrote: > Is the curve actually that much? Have you measured it with a feeler gauge to see what the actual amount of curve is? All good shears have some curve in one blade, but an actual 1/8" seems excessive. Check it and let us know what the actual amount is. We can go from there. > On Jul 26, 2014, at 2:03 PM, Don Schwartz |
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249526 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑07‑26 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
On 7/26/2014 4:59 PM, JAMES THOMPSON wrote: > OK! Now we know what's wrong. I once had a gorgeous long chisel which had a bend in it, not much, but it just wasn't right. So I says to myself, I says, self, you can fix this. And self said, Yes, I can. I mean, if it bent this way, then I can bend it back, right??? Of course! > > So I took it to my anvil and used a brass hammer, and I smacked it just once. That's all it took to break it cleanly in half. It is no longer a problem. It went to the recycle bin. > > You can fix your scissors, just like I fixed my chisel. It's easy. But it will ruin your day. :>) > > The inlaid portion of the blade is hardened. It will probably break. But it's not much good like it is anyway, right? Smack that puppy! Then tell us the sad story of this scissor rejuvenation. James et al This is definately NOT what I was wanting to hear. However, I will learn from your experience and avoid smacking it as you did. That suggests instead maybe the application of force should not be concentrated at one point, but distrbuted along the length of the blade.. The application of heat will likely soften the inlaiy, but might still yield astraighter blade? What say you? Don |
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249531 | Chuck Ramsey <chuck-ramsey@l...> | 2014‑07‑27 | RE: How to fix bent scissors? |
> Maybe they would cut just fine without tempering. Wouldn't stay sharp as > long, but better than broken, no? And maybe I'll get lucky trying to > temper them afterward. It's happened before... I'm more concerned about > figuring out a method for applying force in a distributed fashion along > the curve. I know that bends are sometimes corrected using a solid rod > in a vice, but that applies a fairly concentrated force to the bent > object. A bigger rod would help, but I would need something with a > shallow curve about 6 in wide, Maybe just a softwood jaw in the vice? > > Don, still looking for ideas Don-If you said how much of the blade length was affected I missed it. If it's only the tip ora little more then grinding might be a solution. Shorter better than broken also, no?chuck(who last week cleaned, sharpened and fettled a few pair of flea market scissors) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
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249537 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑07‑27 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
On 7/26/2014 7:07 PM, Chuck Ramsey wrote: > > > > > > Maybe they would cut just fine without tempering. Wouldn't stay > sharp as > > long, but better than broken, no? And maybe I'll get lucky trying to > > temper them afterward. It's happened before... I'm more concerned about > > figuring out a method for applying force in a distributed fashion along > > the curve. I know that bends are sometimes corrected using a solid rod > > in a vice, but that applies a fairly concentrated force to the bent > > object. A bigger rod would help, but I would need something with a > > shallow curve about 6 in wide, Maybe just a softwood jaw in the vice? > > > > Don, still looking for ideas > Don- > If you said how much of the blade length was affected I missed it. If > it's only the tip or > a little more then grinding might be a solution. Shorter better than > broken also, no? > chuck > (who last week cleaned, sharpened and fettled a few pair of flea > market scissors) No. It's a big long gentle curve. Don |
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249550 | David Nighswander <wishingstarfarm663@m...> | 2014‑07‑27 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
Snip From: Don Schwartz Wiss inlaid scissors, 9in overall. One of the blades has a long bend in it (no kink), resulting in a 1/8 curve along the cutting edge. I have hammers, vises, a small piece RR track and can heat the blade if need be. How best to proceed? Don Unsnip I’ve had my best luck with controlled applied force. When I had make up a process to straighten crankshafts we set up a set of v blocks and used a hydraulic press. Put the blocks on both ends. Spin the crank and use a dial indicator to find the high spot. Set the blocks on both ends of the bend and slowly press the crank down. Check run the run out and press again if necessary. Better to press twice than to over bend. Maybe you can use a vise and 3 blocks of wood to do a similar thing. Tape the blocks to the jaws. One on each end of one jaw and in the middle, or lined up with the bend on the other. Crank the vise and check. Good luck no matter what you try. After all if they don’t work now the worst you can do is stay the same. Dave N. aka Old Sneelock |
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249567 | Thomas Conroy <booktoolcutter@y...> | 2014‑07‑27 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
Don Schwartz wrote: "Wiss inlaid scissors, 9in overall. One of the blades has a long bend in it (no kink), resulting in a 1/8 curve along the cutting edge. I have hammers, vises, a small piece RR track and can heat the blade if need be. How best to proceed?" Leave them as is. That's the way they're supposed to be. Well, I've got to qualify that a bit. Good scissors have slightly bowed blades and a slightly loose rivet. This means that the blades will touch and cut in only one place, which will move as the blades are closed. When they are closed you will be able to see light betwweenthe blades, which will be touching only at the tip and near the rivet. If both blades are straight, they may not touch and cut at all for part of their length. But all the ones I've looked at, I'm pretty sure that both blades were curved, not one curved and one straight. 1/8" does sound rather a lot, but not impossibly so; my impression is that 1/16" total between the blades might be more normal for scissors that size. Do they cut OK, assuming they are sharp? I would guess that too much curvature will make the blades snag and chew each other up, so if they act dull that is probably just a matter of sharpening. In that case, sharpen but don't try to bend the blades. If you do try to straighten them, leave a bit of curvature in the curved blade and you might even consider adding a bit of curve to the flat one. Tom Conroy |
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249570 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑07‑28 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
They are reasonably sharp, but the cutting edges cannot be made to come together to cut except for approx 1in from the hinged end, regardless of how the bolt is tensioned. I believe that I will try Old Sneelock's suggestion (but not today), and post before & after pics RSN. Thanks for all the suggestions & advice. This may be a lost cause, but I've little to lose here Don On 7/27/2014 5:37 PM, Thomas Conroy wrote: > Leave them as is. That's the way they're supposed to be. > > Well, I've got to qualify that a bit. Good scissors have slightly bowed blades and a slightly loose rivet. This means that the blades will touch and cut in only one place, which will move as the blades are closed. When they are closed you will be able to see light betwweenthe blades, which will be touching only at the tip and near the rivet. If both blades are straight, they may not touch and cut at all for part of their length. But all the ones I've looked at, I'm pretty sure that both blades were curved, not one curved and one straight. 1/8" does sound rather a lot, but not impossibly so; my impression is that 1/16" total between the blades might be more normal for scissors that size. > > Do they cut OK, assuming they are sharp? I would guess that too much curvature will make the blades snag and chew each other up, so if they act dull that is probably just a matter of sharpening. In that case, sharpen but don't try to bend the blades. If you do try to straighten them, leave a bit of curvature in the curved blade and you might even consider adding a bit of curve to the flat one. > > Tom Conroy |
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249571 | scott grandstaff <scottg@s...> | 2014‑07‑28 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
9" Wiss Inlaid will only be missed for a short time. The Inlaid series of shears went on for a ----long--- time. There are lots them out there. Don't tell anyone else but Galoots though. ssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=wiss+inlaid&_sop =15">http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=wiss+inlaid&_sop=15< /a> yours Scott -- ******************************* Scott Grandstaff Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca 96039 scottg@s... http://www.snowcrest.n et/kitty/sgrandstaff/ http://www.snowcr est.net/kitty/hpages/index.html ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7933 - Release Date: 07/27/14 |
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249572 | Thomas Conroy <booktoolcutter@y...> | 2014‑07‑28 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
Don Schwartz wrote: "One blade is quite straight, the other veers off like a fork in the road. I measured the separation at the tips with a rule. The inside of the bent shear (the meeting surface) is convex, not concave." Egg on my face. I should have read the whole thread before replying. Pass over that spitoon. But, now that I realize what the problem is: I have a Stilletto 5/8" chisel with about 5" of blade, that was so badly bellied or bent that it couldn't be flattened by stock removal. I put it in the woodworking vise and squeezed it flat, left it a few hours. It sprang back when the vise was opened. Put it in back in with the ends blocked one way and the center blocked the other, using rolled-up paper towels to give a softer transition, and closed the vise slowly to over-bend it, left it a few hours. Same thing again, with more blocking, and again, maybe four or six times total. Each time it improved a bit, and each time I was convinced that I was going to snap it when I closed the vise. It finally got to the point where I could live with it. Ground away what was left of the belly and it sharpened up real nice. The key was putting on the pressure slowly and gently, spreading the pressure out a bit, and letting the blade rest in the over-bent position a while before taking the pressure off. I tried a sudden smack with a hammer and it basically did nothing; I think I would have snapped the blade if I had whacked harder. Tom Conroy, polishing. |
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249579 | Michael Blair <branson2@s...> | 2014‑07‑28 | Re: How to fix bentscissors? |
> 9" Wiss Inlaid will only be missed for a short time. > The Inlaid series of shears went on for a ----long--- time. Actually, they are still going on. Or at least they were a couple of years back when I looked them up after I picked up a pair of inlaid tailor's shears for a buck. Mike in Sacto |
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249587 | <ruby@m...> | 2014‑07‑28 | Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
> > I have a Stilletto 5/8" chisel with about 5" of blade, > that was so badly bellied or bent that it couldn't be > flattened by stock removal. I put it in the woodworking > vise and squeezed it flat, left it a few hours. It sprang > back when the vise was opened. Tom Guitar makers pay extra for these bent chisels. They are use to shape the ends of the delicate braces that strengthen the thin top and back and the shallow scooped out shape is traditional. I do it with just a plain old sharp chisel, and this 1/2 hour job is one of the most satisfying during the construction,, but there are plenty of luthiers who like the bent chisel. Ed Minch --------------------------------------------------------------------- Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider. http://www.nni.com/ |
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249589 | Michael Blair <branson2@s...> | 2014‑07‑28 | Re: How to fix bentscissors? |
> I have a Stilletto 5/8" chisel with about 5" of blade, > that was so badly bellied or bent that it couldn't be > flattened by stock removal. I put it in the woodworking > vise and squeezed it flat, left it a few hours. It sprang > back when the vise was opened. I ran into a bend in my 1/2 inch Stiletto. Couple of taps with a 2# brass hammer over my anvil fixed the bend. Mike in Sacto |
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249952 | JAMES THOMPSON <oldmillrat@m...> | 2014‑08‑17 | Re: Job done (almost) was Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
I don't remember. But now son has decided to "upgrade" his old 454 truck engine, and has spent more than $8000 on the engine at a local shop. I have grown too old for such adventures anymore. Now that the engine block has been bored .060" over and everything (and I mean EVERYTHING, including aluminum heads) but the block has been replaced with shiny new stuff, the engine just cannot run cool enough. There is an answer for this, but I don't want to have to do it. But it may come to that. I am open to suggestions. On Aug 16, 2014, at 6:50 PM, Don Schwartz |
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249953 | <ruby@m...> | 2014‑08‑17 | Re: Job done (almost) was Re: How to fix bent scissors? |
JAMES THOMPSON |
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252211 | Thomas Conroy <booktoolcutter@y...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
Don Schwartz wrote: "I have a #53 of more recent vintage, and have not been able to get the mouth and projection in harmony with any predictability. Sometimes it works for me, sometimes not. Please describe your method." Damfino how I did it. I remember the first time I set one up it took an awful long time and was hard, but this time it went in almost without fuss. On thought, the principle seems to be that when the mouth is closed as far as it can go, leaving just a tiny thread of light, the shave should give a thin, wispy curl.If the blade is sticking out too far the curl will jam; if it is not far enough out, the blade won't cut. So set the blade with the mouth closed down, where it will be easy to tell if the setting is right; not with the mouth gaping open, where there is no way to tell just how far out the blade should be. I am accustomed to watching the blade from the sole side of the body as I adjust a 151 spokeshave or a plane. However, the moving sole of the 54 makes it hard to judge the protrusion of the blade from the sole side, so I had to find a way to judge how much I was altering the protrusion, while looking at the other side of the blade through the yoke. What I found was that, on mine, the edge end of the blade slot was close to the rim of the blade hold-down screw, and that by monitoring the gap between them I could monitor how much I was shifting the blade. Not how much protrusion there was, but at leas I could see how much I altered it. Since I didn't turn the body repeatedly upside down and rightside up, it was easier to keep the blade in the same place as I repeatedly loosened the screw, shifted the blade, and tightened the screw. Doubtless some craftsmen, well-accustomed to setting a plane blade with a hammer, can set the hold-down screw just loose enough to allow a tiny bit of movement, and then move the blade with taps of a hammer. I couldn't get this method to work, so I had to shove things around with clumsy fingers; but I have noted the taps-of-a-hammer technique for future use. One other detail was screwing me up for a while. When I use a 151 I put my forefingers down near the ends of the mouth, to give better control and feedback. I found that with my 53 I was putting my fingers in just the same places, in fact on the convenient little circular castings at the corners of the mouth. However, these castings cover the springs that hold the mouth setting, and when I rested my fingers on the spring covers I opened and closed the mouth setting unpredictably. I've had to discipline myself, and move my finger rests away from the spring covers and yoke. This might be part of your problem. Setting a yoke spokeshave is the tricky part; all the rest is clean sailing. At leas that's how I've found it. Tom Berkeley |
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252214 | Kirk Eppler <eppler.kirk@g...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
On Wed, Dec 10, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Thomas Conroy |
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252215 | Paul Gardner <yoyopg@g...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
Really enjoying this brace of write-ups by Tom and am very glad to have clicked on the excellent Stan Rogers link provided. I must admit I completely got hold of the wrong end of the stick and misread Tom's closing remarks. When I read the passage about "workers rising up", I thought "oh dear, will the phrase "*busy as a bee'"* now be retired as millions of the tribe apini walk out as part of industrial action with complaints about cramped working conditions and a seven day work week!?" A completely different song was going through my head. https://www.youtube.com/wa tch?v=tjDxZqQhRBU Paul, waiting for the wind and rain to start. On Wed, Dec 10, 2014 at 5:40 PM, Thomas Conroy |
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252216 | JAMES THOMPSON <oldmillrat@m...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
What is it with this broken handle? Can you fix it? If not, put up a picture and I'll look at it. Maybe I can fix it. > On Dec 10, 2014, at 2:21 PM, Thomas Conroy |
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252220 | Michael Blair <branson2@s...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
> Don Schwartz wrote: "I have a #53 of more recent vintage, and have > not been able to get the mouth and projection in harmony with any > predictability. Mine are all set so that when the mouth is entirely closed the edge of the blade is not exposed. It works well for me. I liked it in the first one I had, and have set the others the same way. Mike in Sacto |
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252221 | Thomas Conroy <booktoolcutter@y...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
Jim Thompson wrote: "What is it with this broken handle? Can you fix it? If not, put up a picture and I'll look at it. Maybe I can fix it." Jim, many thanks. I'm sure you could weld on a new handle easily, while it is utterly beyond my ability to fix--- the last time I did any welding, brazing, or soldering was with oxyacetylene in a junior college class in the late '70s. However, I some time ago came to the conclusion that I don't want to fix it. The left handle is snapped off cleanly at the narrow spot, about an inch beyond the yoke. It seems to be an old break perhaps very old, because the broken surface has the same grey (not rusted or corroded) surface as the rest of the shave. Fixing it would make it just another spokeshave, but with the left handle gone it is ready for that (semi-mythical?) task where cramped quarters make the handle get in the way. And I found that I could use it one-handed as a sort of jigged carving knife, though it is clumsy for that. Its even possible that a previous owner broke off the handle deliberately, though that seems unlikely--- broken spokeshaves have probably never been rare. But the Stanley Universal and, to a lesser extent, the MF wood-handled shaves advertised single-handled use as a benefit, and I gather that lots of those turn up with one handle removed. And there are wooden spokeshaves where one or both handles have been whittled off. Someone used de-handled spokeshaves. Mind you, I have never actually needed a single-handled spokeshave, but if I do I have one. I just have to switch the blade back in. I modify 151 bodies extensively for use on leather, and in occasional daydreaming I have considered modifying the handles for a sharper look or a different feel. Anything from wrapping the stock handles with leather to grinding them down into tangs which could be used for mounting fancy wooden handles. I come back to the fact that I like spokeshave handles as they are. I actually dislike the feel of the wooden-handled boutique spokeshaves. And with my old 54, a bit of personification comes in, too: it earrned its living for a long time, so now let it rest honorably, waiting for a not-too-strenuous task it can still do. Tom Conroy Still photo-deprived,and still planning to do something about it--- someday., After all, I always did enjoy fairy tales. |
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252226 | JAMES THOMPSON <oldmillrat@m...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
> On Dec 11, 2014, at 5:09 AM, Thomas Conroy |
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252227 | Kirk Eppler <eppler.kirk@g...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
I too have a one armed spokeshave, great work working inside a handle grip. And the one I passed on to tom, I was trying to remove the handle when working close to an edge. On Thu, Dec 11, 2014 at 7:35 AM, JAMES THOMPSON |
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252229 | Ed Minch <ruby@m...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
I found one of the Stanley 67 spokeshaves for cheap and thought the removable handle would be a good idea. You can unscrew one handle and screw it into a socket on the top of the body. Well, 15 years later and I still haven’t sharpened the blade. A side comment - sometimes there IS serendipity. I bought it with the flat sole on it. The next weekend I found the round sole in a box at a flea for 50 cents. I would not have recognized it if I had not bought the tool the previous weekend. Ed Minch On Dec 11, 2014, at 10:48 AM, Kirk Eppler |
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252230 | "Chuck Taylor" <cft98208@g...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
Kirk wrote: > I too have a one armed spokeshave, great work working inside a handle grip. A Stanley 67 Universal spokeshave works great when you need to work in tight quarters. http://www.peterrobinson.galootcentral.com/spokeshaves/#Stanley-67-shav e">http://www.peterrobinson.galootcentral.com/spokeshaves/#Stanley-67-shave -- Chuck Taylor north of Seattle |
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252231 | "Chuck Taylor" <cft98208@g...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
Ed, Great serendipity. I was given on of my 67s by my sister-in-law (it was her dad's) and bought the other. Now I have two, one with the flat sole and one with the round sole. I use them both. It may be heresy to say this, but I prefer my round-bottom Stanley 67 to my Millers Falls cigar shaves. Cheers, Chuck Taylor north of Seattle > > I found one of the Stanley 67 spokeshaves for cheap and thought the removable handle would be a good idea. You can unscrew one handle and screw it into a socket on the top of the body. Well, 15 years later and I still haven’t sharpened the blade. > > A side comment - sometimes there IS serendipity. I bought it with the flat sole on it. The next weekend I found the round sole in a box at a flea for 50 cents. I would not have recognized it if I had not bought the tool the previous weekend. > > Ed Minch > |
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252232 | Ed Minch <ruby@m...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
CHuck I’ll have to try the round bottom - HAS to be easier to sharpen than the ceegar shave. Ed Minch On Dec 11, 2014, at 11:24 AM, Chuck Taylor |
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252233 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
On 2014-12-11 9:53 AM, Ed Minch wrote: > I’ll have to try the round bottom - HAS to be easier to sharpen than the ceegar shave. > > Ed Minch I attacked my generic cigar shave iron with a small tailed grinder to rough in the clearance angle, and it started cutting. Not pretty, not finished, but I can see a way to make this thing work well - once I get a round to-it, and some small diamond hones! FWIW Don |
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252234 | James Thompson <oldmillrat@m...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
If one has a spokeshave with one missing handle, does that not then require a second spokeshave with the opposite handle missing? One for the right side and one for the left side? Or am i missing something? I need to get a handle on this. > On Dec 11, 2014, at 7:48 AM, Kirk Eppler |
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252235 | William Ghio <bghio@m...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
On Dec 11, 2014, at 11:56 AM, Don Schwartz |
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252238 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
On 2014-12-11 10:18 AM, William Ghio wrote: > I don't know that you really have a clearance angle on a cigar shave blade. Seems to me that the clearance angle is set by the user - rotate too far and it's gone. > > Bill The long bevel you and others describe gives the clearance needed to make the thing work. A short bevel gives none. Don |
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252236 | Michael Blair <branson2@s...> | 2014‑12‑11 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
> My long deceased mother had an old, country saying, "That's about as > useless as teats on a man." Even more useless was, according to my great grandmother, "As useless as teats on a dead boar." But there are some uses, like chamfering the bottom of the handle for hammers and axes and the like, where I only use one hand anyway. Mike in Sacto |
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252241 | Thomas Conroy <booktoolcutter@y...> | 2014‑12‑12 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
Jim Thompson wrote: >If one has a spokeshave with one missing handle, does that not then require a second spokeshave with the opposite handle missing? One for the right side and one for the left side? Or am i missing something? I need to get a handle on this.< Indeed so. And also one with no handles. I see the occasional wooden spokeshave with both handles whittled off, maybe for leather work or to reduce bulk in a crowded travelling toolbox. But I am content to take my broken spokeshaves as they come. Tom Conroy |
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252244 | Michael Blair <branson2@s...> | 2014‑12‑12 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
> But I am content to take my broken spokeshaves as they come. As am I. I have a very small wooden spokeshave with one handle snapped off close to the blade. Had it for years. Last week I looked at it and thought I'd give it a try. Turns out it's quite a good one hander. Mike in Sacto |
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252247 | paul womack <pwomack@p...> | 2014‑12‑12 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
Ed Minch wrote: > I found one of the Stanley 67 spokeshaves for cheap and thought the removable handle would be a good idea. You can unscrew one handle and screw it into a socket on the top of the body. Well, 15 years later and I still haven’t sharpened the blade. That's GREAT edge retention! What's the steel in the blade? :-) BugBear |
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252271 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑12‑13 | Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
On 12/10/2014 7:40 PM, Thomas Conroy wrote: > Don Schwartz wrote: "I have a #53 of more recent vintage, and have not been able to get the mouth and projection in harmony with any predictability. Sometimes it works for me, sometimes not. Please describe your method." > > > Damfino how I did it. I remember the first time I set one up it took an awful long time and was hard, but this time it went in almost without fuss. > > On thought, the principle seems to be that when the mouth is closed as far as it can go, leaving just a tiny thread of light, the shave should give a thin, wispy curl.If the blade is sticking out too far the curl will jam; if it is not far enough out, the blade won't cut. So set the blade with the mouth closed down, where it will be easy to tell if the setting is right; not with the mouth gaping open, where there is no way to tell just how far out the blade should be. Many thanks! This works very nicely. Don |
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252272 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2014‑12‑13 | Re: Re: December FleaBAGging--- long. You are warned. |
On 12/11/2014 5:30 AM, Michael Blair wrote: >> Don Schwartz wrote: "I have a #53 of more recent vintage, and have >> not been able to get the mouth and projection in harmony with any >> predictability. > > Mine are all set so that when the mouth is entirely closed the edge > of the blade is not exposed. It works well for me. I liked it in > the first one I had, and have set the others the same way. > > Mike in Sacto Thanks! This works very nicely. Don |
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