...or perhaps, the joints i am likely to employ will be more box rather than
finger....we'll see what emerges from the shop after the timber arrives :-)

Cheers,
Mal

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> On 22 Oct 2014, at 19:30, Malcolm Thomas  wrote:
> 
> Sorry chaps, should have mentioned up front, am aware the joints on such a box
were machined.  But don’t have a treadle powered table saw.   Also aware that
DT’s are way to go for general work, more aesthetically pleasing and better
joint around.
> 
> But, i do want to replicate the yankee 100 box as much as I can and will have
a go at it with  hand tools.   If that proves impossible or fails for some other
reason then I could resort to my small model making table saw, but I don’t see
much of a challenge in that  :-0)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers
> Mal
> Oz
> (Perth to be more precise)
> 
> On 22 Oct 2014, at 7:07 pm, Michael Blair  wrote:
> 
>>> anyway, any tips/gotchas i need to be aware of when cutting these
>>> things by hand ?? the finger joints that is...
>> 
>> Erm, the finger joints in such boxes were machined joints from the start,
>> a way to get something of the strength of dovetails without all the hand
>> work.
>> 
>> A true Neanderthal might do them with saw and chisel, but there is a
>> Galootish solution.  Charles Holtzappfel shows a treadle operated
>> table saw in either volume 1 or volume 2 of his five volume work, Turning
>> and Mechanical Manipulation.  There's one that is wooden construction,
>> and another that is metal (illustrated).  They're pretty much the
>> table saw we all know (but called a "sawing machine" in the text). They
>> have a fence, and they have a slot for a miter gauge.  The miter gauge
>> looks like any miter gauge found on a table saw you can buy today at
>> any dealership in tailed apprentices.
>> 
>> Mike in Sacto
>> 
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