Sorry chaps, should have mentioned up front, am aware the joints on such a box
were machined.  But don’t have a treadle powered table saw.   Also aware that
DT’s are way to go for general work, more aesthetically pleasing and better
joint around.

But, i do want to replicate the yankee 100 box as much as I can and will have a
go at it with  hand tools.   If that proves impossible or fails for some other
reason then I could resort to my small model making table saw, but I don’t see
much of a challenge in that  :-0)




Cheers
Mal
Oz
(Perth to be more precise)

On 22 Oct 2014, at 7:07 pm, Michael Blair  wrote:

>> anyway, any tips/gotchas i need to be aware of when cutting these
>> things by hand ?? the finger joints that is...
> 
> Erm, the finger joints in such boxes were machined joints from the start,
> a way to get something of the strength of dovetails without all the hand
> work.
> 
> A true Neanderthal might do them with saw and chisel, but there is a
> Galootish solution.  Charles Holtzappfel shows a treadle operated
> table saw in either volume 1 or volume 2 of his five volume work, Turning
> and Mechanical Manipulation.  There's one that is wooden construction,
> and another that is metal (illustrated).  They're pretty much the
> table saw we all know (but called a "sawing machine" in the text). They
> have a fence, and they have a slot for a miter gauge.  The miter gauge
> looks like any miter gauge found on a table saw you can buy today at
> any dealership in tailed apprentices.
> 
> Mike in Sacto
> 
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