I have always just used paraffin wax (canning wax-- gulf wax) pretty cheap and
lasts forever. I rub the bar across the threads and run them back and forth, in
and out and it has worked well for me.

Brent K

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 19, 2014, at 10:59 AM, Gye Greene  wrote:

> I probably should.  ;)
> 
> The short answer for "why not", is that I have loads of oil (I keep a
> spray bottle handy -- a re-purposes "fabric stain remover" squirt
> bottle) -- whereas I'd have to buy more candle wax or beeswax.  :)
> 
> 
> --Travis
> 
> On Mon, Oct 20, 2014 at 12:49 AM, Greg Young Morris
>  wrote:
>> Why not try paraffin or bees' wax? Probably less likely to pick up dirt and
>> dust, and it works well enough on the bottoms of wooden planes to reduce
>> friction...
>> 
>> Greg
>> 
>> 2014-10-19 8:28 GMT-06:00 Gye Greene :
>>> 
>>> Troy,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Good info; thanks!
>>> 
>>> For handscrews (and wooden vices), what would you think about a
>>> non-drying oil such as mineral oil?  (The author says "...or any other
>>> type of oil."  Seems like a non-drying oil would be OK.  Unless the
>>> concern is that it would soften the wood(??).
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --Travis
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> But in the world of wooden clock movements people like to slather the
>>>> movements with linseed oil to "feed" and reinforce the teeth on the
>>>> wheels.
>>>> It doesn't. Instead it oxidizes, discoloring the wood and forms a sticky
>>>> surface finish which is perfect for catching dust.  While the use of the
>>>> word oil in the name might make one think it could be a lubricant, this
>>>> is
>>>> is not the case. I suspect this is why Kingshott makes this comment.
>>> 
>>> ((Snipped))
>>> 
>>>> If your threads are well formed I suspect lubrication is unnecessary but
>>>> in
>>>> a pinch I would probably use some paste wax.
>>>> 
>>>> Troy
>>> 
>>>>> But then he warns, "Under no circumstances put linseed or any other
>>>>> oil on the wooden threads."
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