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Recent Bios FAQ

184902 "Ron Banks" <rwbanks1@s...> 2008‑11‑20 RE: finishes for beech planes
IIRC, The Old Mill Cabinet Shop and Kremer Pigments both carry dragon's
blood. Ron Banks Fort Worth, TX

> -----Original Message----- From: oldtools-bounces@r...> [mailto:oldtools-
> bounces@r...] On Behalf Of> Bill Fariss Sent: Thursday, November 20,
> 2008 7:13 AM To: paul womack; oldtools Subject: Re: [OldTools]
> finishes for beech planes
>> 1gill??
> dragon's blood?? =A0Bill Fariss Ashburn, Va.>>>>>
> ________________________________ From: paul womack  To:
> oldtools  Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 7:48:13 AM
> Subject: [OldTools] finishes for beech planes
>> Further to, or in addition to the usual discussion on soaking> in
>> linseed oil (or not), I just found this in Spons Workshop> Reciepts,
>> 1883, page 86: Polishing or Oiling: Planes. > Planes made from
>> naturally dried beech-
> wood are much lighter in colour than those made from artificially
> dried or steamed beech. For planes made of the first-named beech, use
> raw linseed oil, 1 gill; dragon's> blood, 1 pennyworth ; yellow ochre,
> as much in bulk as> dragon's blood ; mix these together, and rub the
> planes all> over except the sole or bottom ; let them remain about a>
> week. Take them and rub well all over with a clean soft rag ;> give
> one more coat of oil alone. Let it dry for three or four days, then
> rub well with a clean rag ; lay them by for a week or two ; rub again
> with rag, and use them if wanted. Let care be taken to keep them free
> from dust while the oil is wet, or they will be a dirty colour. For
> steamed beech proceed the same, except not to use more than about half
> the quantity of dragon's blood.
>> No soaking there. =A0 BugBear
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> aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the> history,
> usage, value, location, availability,> collectibility, and restoration
> of traditional handtools,> especially woodworking tools.
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