Stephen wrote:

>Brent, I have used shellac over oil finishes for a number of years now with
>no preparation apart from giving the oil plenty of time to cure,I have never
>experienced any problems so far.

You don't need to let the oil cure. I have padded shellac based on Jeff 
Jewitt's instructions on his website, 
http://www.homesteadfinishingprod.com/shellac2.htm . To quote from his 
intructions on oiling:

"The purpose of this step is to seal the wood and give it greater depth. 
On re-finished pieces you can omit this step...I have used a variety of 
oils, but I like linseed and tung oil the best. The amount of oil that is 
used should be very little. Perhaps a thimbleful per square foot is all 
that's needed. Apply just enough to deepen the surface of the wood. Do 
not flood the surface with oil. Apply the oil with a clean soft cloth, 
rub the surface briskly and it will penetrate quickly. After several 
minutes, begin applying the shellac."

That's boiled linseed oil he's referring to, I'm thinking. That's what I 
used. Jeff recommends some special cloth for application but I like to 
use old jocky briefs. The crotch portion makes a great wad for the pad 
and the back half is good for the outer cloth. Otherwise, I followed 
Jeff's instructions and the shellac dried perfectly with good adhesion. 
Seems too good to be true, but it works and looks great. And it's fast. 
Just the thing for use baby-boomers with instant gratification 
expectations. Jeff's article on padding shellac is a must read.

BTW, Dewaxed garnet Paddylac on mahogany is da bomb. Same with 
superblonde on sitka spruce. Superblonde Paddylac is amazing stuff - 
dries fast, clear and hard.
****************************
Tom Price (TomPrice@a...
Will Work For Tools
The Galoot's Progress Old Tools site is at:
http://members.aol.com/tomprice/galootp/galtprog.html