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44209 | BRUCE_VANSLOUN@H... | 1998‑06‑01 | Two man saws. |
Item Subject: Text Item GGs, Got some questions re: two man saw techniques. Storm rumbled through this weekend and took out the neighbors 90' Poplar (Quacking Aspen, trash tree, Jeff ;-) George was out of town, Maryann called to say that a branch had let go. I walked over to find 90' of branch over. Rode two other trees down. I had my one man cc w/ me. Turned around and went to get the ch*in S*w. Promptly broke the recoil cord. Went at it w/ the one man and cut it up into 8' lengths. (20 strokes will go through 6") Another neighbor came over to give me a hand and we fired up the two man cc. Boy does that work well! We took down the remaining 15' butt of the tree. He fired up his chainsaw and we found that using the two man was a bit faster getting through the log! (That is, given that you could keep up the pace.) |
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44219 | Ed Bell <ed.bell@c...> | 1998‑06‑01 | Re: Two man saws. |
BRUCE_VANSLOUN@H... wrote: > > Soo, any youse a pro in using two man cc? Any techniques to share? > As an example, on the pull stroke, do you pull straight across or dip > down and take more out on the near side? I'll claim no expertise, but it seems to me that the normal arc'd design of the saw should perform the equivilent of dipping one end down, albeit the far side from the pulling party. In other words, just pull it straight across. (Unless, of course, it has a straight blade, in which case the question is restated. :-) ) Ed |
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44275 | "Todd Hiner" <thiner@m...> | 1998‑06‑02 | Bio/Out of the lurk mode. Re: Two man saws. |
Hopefully this doesn't get lost in the shuffle of FMM, anyway here goes. I live in Billings, MT work in a bank and officiate basketball on the side. Married, 29 years old, no children. Previous to my banking, I worked for the U.S. Forest Service for 8 years, as both a seasonal and fulltime Wilderness Guard in the Bob Marshall Wilderness of North Central Montana. Great job, horseback 150+ days a year in the backcountry (no supervisors within two days ride.) Learned all about crosscut saws and bucksaws. I'll followup the thread on two man saws separately. Rather new at this woodworking/old tool stuff, although my father was a shop teacher for seven years. SWMBO bought me some clamps, mitre saw, and a Workmate for this past Christmas, in order to make her some picture frames. I made one. Needed way more tools ;-) So proceeded to search my fathers, grandfathers, uncle's shops for tools they no longer "needed". My dad's and uncle's stuff was mostly pretty basic stuff (chisels, tape, bevel). But grampa had stuff that I needed to know more about. A few planes (15), wooden planes (7), 4 brace and bits, lots of saws, marking gauges, etc. He said he had no use for all that junk, so I relieved him of the bulk of it. After gathering the haul, I started searching to identify the individual planes. Turns out, I did alright |
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44278 | "Todd Hiner" <thiner@m...> | 1998‑06‑02 | Re: Two man saws. |
Subject: Re: Two man saws. >BRUCE_VANSLOUN@H... wrote: >> >> Soo, any youse a pro in using two man cc? Any techniques to share? >> As an example, on the pull stroke, do you pull straight across or dip >> down and take more out on the near side? > >I'll claim no expertise, but it seems to me that the normal arc'd design >of the saw should perform the equivilent of dipping one end down, albeit >the far side from the pulling party. I have always wondered when I might make use of the knowledge gained from 8 years of manual labor (i.e. no mechanized/power tools) in the Bob Marshall Wilderness available. The technique I have been taught basically is: 1) NEVER push, not only is it not effective, it messes up your partner's rhythm. 2) After pulling, relax your arms, and raise your handle 3-4 inches before your partner's pull stroke. 3) Generally, just pull straight back on the saw. That is, don't force it into the cut to take a bigger bite than your partner's lift has provided. 4) If their is ANY chance of binding the saw in the kerf, use wedges. Trust me on this, chopping three-fourths of the way through a 40 inch dia. tree. is no fun. Hopefully this helps. These tips are for a simple cut made from the top of the horizontal tree. Different techniques may be needed to fall timber or to make cuts where their may be bind (down pressure) present. Todd Hiner thiner@m... |
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44308 | Cougarjack@a... | 1998‑06‑02 | Re: Two man saws. |
Bruce queries about two man CC technique... snippage... Bruce, Two-man CC'ing does not require rocket scientists! Most of the guys who used these things never had enough education to sing the national anthem, or sign their own name. They worked until a widowmaker squashed them like a bark beetle, and then were replaced by another faceless worker. Life was getting drunk on friday night and ransacking the saloon. I can't imagine that lumberjacks were the least bit introspective, or concerned about productivity, past what it took to keep the foreman off their back. It was NOT a pastime for the rich and famous! As with most old tools, they worked well with a small bit of brainpower, or they got discarded quickly. If they tended to be hard to use, or hard to figure out, no one would waste time with them. I think sometimes we tend to romanticize these tools, when in reality, the folks who used them were very simple folk. The skills are a lot like riding a bike, very basic and self-proving. On the pull stroke, it depends on how much belly the saw has. Don't forget that the back cut needs to be nice and straight across, or else you risk a tear-off. This assumes you're felling, not just cleaning up a windthrow. Basic felling is always the same, regardless of what tools are used. The notch bottom must be clean and perpendicular to the desired line of fall, (most folks make the notch way too deep and large) and the back cut should be parallel to, and slightly above the bottom of the notch. This makes a good even thickness hinge, and a safe fall. There are times when the back cut will be angled, such as "holding a corner" to steer a tree, (very risky!) or when felling a bad leaner, to keep it from splitting up before it's ready to fall. (deadly!) In all cases, I try to keep the sawline straight across, and this helps me keep the bottom of the cut clean and in control. If you do this, the proper number of teeth will always be engaged. I've seen various techniques, but mine is based on safety and common sense. I also believe this is where the term "different strokes for different folks" was first coined? |
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44352 | Chuck Lewis <clewis@r...> | 1998‑06‑02 | Re: Two man saws. |
Cougarjack@a... wrote: Nuts & bolts stuff snipped; poetry left: > a bit of english can be used... > You'll feel what's > required here, if you have good hands. Sounds like a good wrist shot. Keep the puck on the heel of the blade, shift your weight, spring the stick a little, soft hands, use the Force...just enough snap as the rubber leaves the toe........oh geez! YESSS! Nice goal, eh! Chuck Lewis (Hockey tonite...good thing there's a TV in the shop) |
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