Bottom posted, sorry for those who aren’t use to that.

Sent from my iPad, apologies for the Auto Correct errors. Kirk


On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 12:40 PM John Ruth  wrote:

>
> I'd like to get the opinion of The Porch on a design for a saw till to be
> mounted on a sloped ceiling.  Does anyone have a design!?
>
> My current doodles have cumbersome features, like having to insert each
> saw into an individual slot.  I'd like to figure out something more
> convenient.
>

Talking completely out of my posterior here, since I’ve never done this,
and only thought about it slightly longer than it took to read the email,
so proceed with caution, and giggling if it’s a really bad idea.

Starting with the Gun rack converted to a saw till that I use to guide the
discussions

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Shop-Stuff/i-Nb4FGjS/A

You can see the slotted board on the back wall that keeps those scary sharp
teeth away from each other, I see that as a requirement, note there is
space above it.  The saw shown in my picture is too long for the design I
am going to propose, the “carcass” would need to longer than shown.

Assuming mounting to the angled ceiling now, and my up is still up, I would
reverse the position of the slotted board(#1), so it would be closer to the
camera, oriented so it would hold the back of the saw, not the tooth line.
It would still be mounted somewhere so your shortest saw would fit.

To keep the saws from falling, I would add a board (#2) in a similar
orientation to the slotted board, but at a height so that it would hold
your shortest handle comfortably.  This would replace the dowel that the
handle is shown resting on.

When putting a saw in the till, put the back of the toe end in a slot in
board #1, then you would need enough space above (uphill of) board #1 so
that the entire saw can  fit (slide uphill) above board #2, then raise the
handle above board #2, and then lower the saw handle toward the bottom, so
it doesn’t fall out and whack you on the melon.  Fatter slots on the
bottom, or in board #2, could keep the handles separate, if that appeals to
you.

Leaving board #2 narrow, instead of covering the entire bottom of the
carcass, will give you a view of the handle, and room to pick it up, slide
it uphill above board #2, allowing removal.

Backsaws would obviously require much large slots than regular plate thick
slots on handsaws.

Ok, you may now proceed to laughing, pot shots etc.  having never had to do
ASCII art, I won’t defame the art by trying.  Maybe later I can sketch it up


Kirk in Half Moon Bay, CA, where the work deluge has slowed to a steady
rain, so I might see the inside of the garage soon.




>


-- 
Kirk Eppler in Half Moon Bay, CA