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276947 scottg <scottg@s...> 2023‑01‑29 Re: DIY Miter plane
I am of the opinion that a swivellable rear handle to fit Stanley 4-1/2 
through 8 would be a profitable product.

   You got that right!!
  I know a guy who is scheming on an adapter to screw into the plane and 
then mount the tote at a 45 degree angle.  He has been dragging his feet 
a while now though. ( I am wondering if I should start designing one? )

  The swiveling tote mounts like on a Stanley #85 are more than just a 
bracket. Special totes must be carved. Its kind of a hassle.

Rambling follows. Kindly disregard if you get bored haahaha

Most of the dedicated professional miter machines I see on this side of 
the earth are either
  Big heavy iron board and planes of regular but skewed pitch.
  Often a back and forth approach with 2 blades and handles. Several 
companies made them.  Massive things.

  Or oversized versions of ordinary miter trimmers, often foot operated. 
Some of those are pretty big. 2 - 300 pound range

  Home shop sized miter trimmers were for the small shop.
  I loved mine since the day I got it. I have made a lot of picture and 
other small frames on it.  The attachment that makes it easy to measure 
a molding to make up into a picture frame, is particularly valuable.

  (of course the usual thing in the art world is to try not to let on 
you can make frames. They'll kill you. They can paint 126 paintings a 
day if you are going to make frames and make them look good. )

  Amateurs used things like the Stanley miter cutter and vise outfit. 
Not buttery smooth miters but plenty good enough for much work.
Miter boxes too for lots of work.

With big architectural stuff I just lay it out and cut it freehand with 
my little sweetie pie Disston 20" #7.
  If I have a big end that needs squared I just freehand it with a 
regular jack or smooth plane.

   If you are that close just get off the damn ladder and go mind your 
own business.  haahahah

  End grain is not that scary if you just go along with how the grain is 
  If you try to go against the direction the grain wants to be cut, 
it'll kill ya where you stand.
  But just go with the way it cuts the smoothest, and its not that bad.
   I don't have any hesitation planing end grain when I need to.
I can do it with standard bevel down or I have lots of little block 
planes and stuff.

The English style miter planes are something I admire and always wanted 
to make and yet, as much as I would like to have one I can't think of 
any reason why I would need one to use.
  Every time I start to make one I get distracted with other projects. 

  One day I will make one.
yours scott


    Scott Grandstaff
    Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca  96039

Recent Bios FAQ