Long out of context but,

Froes are on the mind so..
Fancy Froe  (wrought, wrapped, welded, etched) would be like a solid ebony,
ivory tipped plow, with inlay, function the least of its attributes.

Been trying to locate a pic of the Alex Bealer Award from ABANA. That's a
Froe! Engraved, carved, with a stand,
https://www.flickr.com/photos/10735775@N.../51132363939/in/dateposted-public/
(from a 2012 Hammer in-knew it was a cool froe, totally ignorant as to what
it was or why SMH)

I don't think there's a froe possible that Jim Austin would consider
teaching,

Not complicated enough, reference his Swedish Axe demo-
http://forgedaxes.com/axe-tour-of-norway-and-sweden-part-4/

Recalling those gates hinges, I was surprised to discover a rolled barrel
in thick enough steel is just as strong as welded. Bill's projects are
often scaled up!

I just visited an accomplished smith who has gotten into green woodworking
and whose self made froe was a couple of things, very  sharp,  forged of
tool steel, about an inch tall and tough to steer, a punched eye 1x1x3/4
deep. I'll drop off my old one as a pattern for version 2, along with some
extra braces, auger bits, drawknife and an adze head-the purge of the
duplicates continues.

Michael


On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:42 PM Bill Kasper  wrote:

> if one wanted to get really fancy one could take some old wrought iron
> wagon wheel tire (tyre, jeff), forge an eye on it (easy peasy, wrought
> loves to stick to itself), and split it to receive an old file.  forge weld
> the file in, taper the wrought blade heavy at the top and fine at the file,
> soak it in muriatic acid for a few hours, and you've got yourself a pretty
> pretty little froe.  as the learned mr. groves mentions above, you won't
> even need to harden or temper the file bit, since you don't want it
> particularly sharp.
>
> michael, do you think jim austin would teach a class in this? :)
>
> on a not dissimilar note, herr suwczinsky helped me forge some 3' long
> pintle hinges a number of years back.  i didn't have a forge, you see.  we
> whacked barrels on a couple of pieces of 1/4" x 2" mild steel, and didn't
> seal the barrels (we could have turned them out and forge or otherwise
> welded them).  they're on, holding a heavy gate and not opening from their
> final cylindrical-ness.  the point is one of those wouldn't have been too
> hard to convert to a froe (cut to length, taper the barrel, taper the
> blade, cut off an old baseball bat for a handle, and robert's my mother's
> brother).  for as much as anyone among us might use a froe, excepting the
> outlier or three, i'd bet that'd be enough to split your greenwood for
> years to come.
>
> bill
> felton, ca
>
> On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 3:53 PM Tim Pendleton 
> wrote:
>
> > You might consider creating a slight taper on the eye, larger on the
> > bottom. Otherwise you will be knocking the blade off the handle as you
> > pound the froe downward. The handle should also be tapered at the bottom.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> > Waiting for my Mariachi pepper seeds to germinate.
> >
> > On Thu, Apr 15, 2021, 5:12 PM james rich  wrote:
> >
> > > So would it be safe to say if I went out to the shed and found a piece
> of
> > > Cold Rolled or Hot Rolled 1/2" x 3 or 4" say 12 to 16" long and welded
> a
> > > 3"  long piece of 2' BLACK PIPE  on for an  Eye  , then ground  or
> > forged a
> > > taper for the edge , I would have a servicable froe ?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> 
>
>
>

-- 
Michael