Frank inquired about stair saws:

>SO I ask the multitude, those with experience and those who own these 
>tools..... Which way do the teeth face?


I made my own a number of years ago based on some older patterns, and I had the
same question. The handle for the pattern I used seemed oriented for push, but
the illustration implied pull.


So in ignorance, I made it so the blade could be installed either way, and tried
both.


I found that, in my situation, both ways.


"What?" you ask? "There must be a right way and wrong way!" you say.


Working from old drawings, poor photos, and no experience with the tool prior to
making mine, I thought the same. Then I found that it depends. With the grain or
across it. Up to a hard stop (blind end) or all of the way out. Fixed workpiece
or one I could position. All matter.


For cutting out floor boards (SYP, I think, roughly 100 years in place), pull
was the best choice, as I could control the downforce with my off hand. Barely
left a mark in the sub floor with proper plate depth setting, and was able to
make clean starts at a board edge without marking the adjacent board.


For stair dado's, pushing from the edge to a hard stop clamped to the stringer
was easier, clean end and and no tearout, with good definition for clearing with
a chisel. Stringer on stands just above waist height for this.



I have no clue it one is more correct than the other, but I will continue to
turn the sawplate whichever way makes the job easier.



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