On 2018-03-15 9:39 AM, Kirk Eppler wrote:
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 14, 2018 at 11:14 PM, Don Schwartz  <mailto:dks@t...>> wrote:
>
>
>     So I have had this scraper plane for quite some time now, a
>     Stanley No112 (honking big scraper that looks like a plane Jeff).
>     A round to-it suddenly appeared and I decided I should begin using
>     the beast. So I honed a nice 45deg angle plus micro-bevels front
>     and back on the Hock iron that came with it . And have given it a
>     wee bit of a hook. The iron cuts beautifully hand-held. 
>
>
> I have the LN112, and have posted of my trials and tribulations over 
> the years.  Check the archives for further insights including hooks, 
> no hooks, raising the toe, etc.
>
> I don't think your plane's sole is the issue, since the blade cuts 
> handheld.
>
> I too wonder about your definition of sharp.  The LN comes with a 
> hugely thick iron, and I can't sharpen it well hand held.  I have to 
> use a guide.  Once I built the guide, and kept it at a true 45°, the 
> thing cut like a beast.
>
> Not so sure with your blade, as the stock blades in my vintage 12s are 
> nowhere near the same tool, requiring a hook.  The Hock may be 
> somewhere in between.
>
> But setting the toe on a piece of paper when setting the blade seems 
> to be key also.
>
Thanks to all who responded. Having returned safely through the snow and 
ice from what should have been a 1-1/2 hr trip, but became 3 hrs, I've 
made some progress. First, I will sum up what I learned earlier.

The iron that L-N provides for their Cabinetmaker's scraper plane is 
1/8in. (0.125").I couldn't find any guidance as to sharpening and set-up.

Ron Hock sells 2 thicknesses of iron for the No.112 - both high carbon 
sterl, suitable for rolling a burr, 3/32in which he says is more 
popular, and the 1/16in which is more flexible. They come ground to 
45deg.. Mine is the thicker of the two. He says to hone them at 45deg, 
and to burnish at 15deg.

LV sells the Veritas scraper plane in the same size range as the No.112. 
Unlike the Stanley, it has "an integral thumbscrew that bows the blade 
to eliminate ridges in the work surface caused by blade corners." The 
plane comes with a 0.055" high-carbon steel blade suited to this 
technique, but they also sell a 1/8in (0.125") thick blade of A2 tool 
steel for use without bowing.

Veritas provides detailed instructions for grinding and honing their 
irons, which I followed to the best of my ability yesterday , using 
their MK-some number iron grinding jig to maintain Hock's 45deg bevel on 
a Washita stone and on 15micron 3M abrasive glued to glass. I added 
small secondary bevels and back-bevels using 2 finer grades of the 3M 
micro-abrasives. When I finished, I was unable to see any reflection 
from the edge ( no little white line ) in directional lighting. Then, 
using the same hard steel burnishing rod I use for my Sandvik card 
scrapers, I went over the bevel at 45 deg for 5 strokes of the 
burnisher, then 5 light strokes at about 15 deg, , consistent with LV 
and Ron Hock.  Testing the iron hand-held on cherry, I could produce a 
satisfying whispy curl of shavings. But not in the plane, as I 
described. So I started flattening, and made some progress.

Today I burnished out yesterday's burr, and re-burnished using the same 
tool and a 15deg block as a guide, until I got a small even burr. I 
checked hand-held cutting, and got a nice whispy shaving. I then tried 
using paper to set the blade depth on the plane. I set the angular 
adjustment as close to vertical as it would go. Carefully inserting the 
blade from below, I set the blade depth using a single sheet of paper ( 
0.004in thick ) under the front of the sole, stopping short of the 
mouth, on a sheet of 1/4" glass. Looking underneath, it seemed the blade 
was too far exposed but I decided to try it. I hammer-adjusted the iron 
for even depth of cut, tapping the side of the iron with a small brass 
hammer. And tried it on cherry which has been finishh-planed. The cut 
was too aggressive, and I had no way to back it off as the bedding was 
vertical. So I restarted, same as above, but without the paper. Still 
no-go. Crinkled shaving 0.005 thick and chatter.

I then leaned the bed forward by 1.85 deg ( thank-you Tilt-box!) and 
reset the iron without paper below the sole, resulting in shavings > 
0.004in with some chatter, and no small effort required to make it cut. 
So I then moved the bed back towards the tote by making a half-turn 
adjustment of the brass wheels. This is better, giving me shavings of 
0.002 -0.003, with less chatter and lower effort.

So I will try again tomorrow by starting out with the bed angled 5deg 
forward before setting the blade depth ( as suggested by Veritas, but 
which I initially failed to note ;-{ ) . This will give me 5 deg of 
adjustability, allowing me to reduce the depth of cut from the initial 
setting. If that doesn't help, I'll go back to flattening the sole and 
try again...

FWIW
Don






-- 
I have decided to leave my past behind. So, if I owe you money...I am sorry, but
I’ve moved on.

The harder they come, the bigger they fall." Ry Cooder