Hey Peter,

Thanks for the reply.  I'm glad to see you are still watching. I've 
spent quite a bit of time on your web site and the linked article is 
helpful.

However, Mr. Frietsche espouses yet another way of locking the sides and 
sole together.  He puts tails on the sides and pins on the sole as you 
show in your first example #1 in your article. But, he has you file the 
side of the tail to create the locking dovetail.  In this picture you 
are looking at the edge of the sole and a side with the tail. 
http://billwebber.galootcentral.com/zum%20Vernieten%20vorbereitet.jpg

Note the space between the tail and pins; wide on the outside and tapers 
to nothing on the inside.  Mr. Frietsche states that peening starts by 
hammering the sole pins.  In doing this the assembly is held with the 
side plate against the anvil and jig plates are not needed.

He calls this scheme a Norris Style and your example #1 a (sic) Spears 
style.  I see no need to discuss the historical accuracy of who used 
what style.  I am still trying to figure out what approach I will take 
when the kit shows up.

On the one hand, I'm certain the metal for the sole of his kits is 
malleable enough to fill around the filed dovetails.  One the other 
hand, I think making the triangular divot in the sole is easier to do 
but then I need more information on how malleable his provided brass 
might be.  The idea of annealing it doesn't appeal as I don't have the 
the required torch or experience.

I'm probably over thinking this project, but I really, really do not 
want to screw it up.  I've seen too many poorly made dovetails and some 
were my own doing.

Regards,

Bill W.
In Beautiful downtown Nottingham, PA