I have an old military knife from WWII that belonged to one of my
grandmothers brothers that fought in the war.  I believe this knife to be a
Camillus.  It has the stacked leather washer type handle.  My mother gave
the knife to me after my grandmother passed away a few years ago.  Anyway,
the knife was hanging on a wall for as many years as I can remember at my
grandmother's house.  Over the years, as you can imagine, the handle has
deteriorated greatly and is now literally disintegrating.  I was
contemplating how to repair the handle.  Making the leather washers will
not be a problem.  I have stuff to do that.  However, I am confused as to
how to get the bolster off of the bottom of the handle.  It appears that
the center shaft for the handle simply slips through the piece of steel on
the butt of the knife and is then peened over to lock the piece of steel
into place.  If that is the case, I suppose the most logical way to remove
would be to file away the peening until I can get it off.  Naturally, that
process would also mean that the shaft would then be shorter when
re-assembling.  I don't see that as a problem since it would only shorten
things by about 1/16" to 1/8" which should not affect functionality of the
knife at all.  I think I can come up with a means by which to compress the
leather washers and to form the handle prior to installation.   Now to my
question, I'm conteplating the idea of how to peen over the end to lock in
the piece of steel on the butt of the knife.  On the original, which I'm
pretty sure was probably done with some sort of machine, is quite uniform.
Do you fellows have any suggestions as to the most effective method to do
this peening to lock in that little steel piece on the butt of the handle?
Would it help if I heated it prior to attempting to peening?  I looked at
the series of messages from a few months ago about doing a similar repair
on an Estwing Hammer (or it may have been a hatchet) handle.  Those are
definitely similar in concept, but the steel washer/bolster and the way it
is peened look a little different from the Estwing Hatchet that I own that
has a leather washer handle.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  If
anyone has done a similar repair on one of these types of knives, I would
love to see some pictures if you have any.

Thanks,

Doc

-- 
John Holladay
DocHolladay0820@g...
205-229-8484
------------------------------------------------------------------------

A picture would help a lot. Besides I am curious which model it is?
  I did this one last year. It was a similar story when I met it. 
Probably worse even. I had to replace much of the leather.
  But then I had a screw to pull it back up with. You'll need a clamping 
scheme to press the leather down and pein.
  The peining will be your least difficult part when you get to it. 
Pretty stright forward.

 
http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/hometools/kinfolks2.jpg

  yours Scott

-- 
*******************************
    Scott Grandstaff
    Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca  96039
    scottg@s...
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html

------------------------------------------------------------------------

On Wed, Jan 25, 2012 at 4:37 AM, John Holladay
 wrote:
> Thanks John for that explanation. =A0As I have thought more about
> this, at this point, I think my biggest challenge is going to be
> filing off the original peening in order to remove the metal cap in
> order to install new leather washers. =A0The trick being to fill it
> off without undue damage to the knife.

Dremel? Slice up a can to protect the good metal from a slip of the
hand? Dunno, never done it before.

Kirk in HMB, CA. Well, almost there
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks John for that explanation.  As I have thought more about this, at
this point, I think my biggest challenge is going to be filing off the
original peening in order to remove the metal cap in order to install new
leather washers.  The trick being to fill it off without undue damage to
the knife.

Thanks,

Doc
On Jan 25, 2012 3:49 AM, "John Manners"  wrote:

> John Holladay writes:
>
>  Do you fellows have any suggestions as to the most effective method to do
>> this peening to lock in that little steel piece on the butt of the handle?
>>
>
> Just before Christmas a friend asked me to rehabilitate an old Estwing
> geologist's hammer (a la the movie "Shawshank? Redemption" but considerably
> larger than the movie version).  It was intended to be a present for my
> friend's brother.  After rust removal and cleaning off the numerous paint
> spots which bespangled the stacked leather handle came the matter of
> tightening the loose (shrunken?) leather washers forming the handle. The
> washers were relatively intact to the extent that they did not require
> replacing although they needed to be re-shaped a little, burnished and
> polished after tightening.
>
> There was the real prospect that the metal shank leading to the hammer's
> head or the tang above it would be bent or otherwise distorted if the head
> was placed on an anvil and the peened end of the tang, protruding through
> the metal end-cap, given a smack with a hammer.
>
> The most simple thing to do seemed to be to treat the peening of the
> tang's end in the same, counter-intuitive way that an axe's handle is
> driven into the axe's head.
>
> I held the hammer suspended, head down, with my hand on the lower part of
> the leather section and struck the top of the tang with a relatively light
> peening hammer.  Although my left arm (I am right-handed) gave under each
> hammer stroke, the inertia of the head of the workpiece was sufficient to
> permit the top of the tang to be peened further.  All it took was about
> half a dozen peening strokes to take up what had previously been a little
> less than 1/16"  of movement of the handle's washers.  I would caution
> against delivering a too-enthusiastic or prolonged peening in this fashion
> as it is very effective to the extent that, in the job described, a washer,
> less resilient than its fellows, was compressed beyond its alignment with
> the rest of the handle and had to be brought back into alignment before
> final burnishing and polishing could be undertaken.
>
> I am pretty sure that new leather washers can be fitted to John's knife to
> maintain a bit of a friction-hold on the tang until, with light blows, the
> top of the tang is sufficiently peened to prevent its being driven through
> the metal end-cap, whereafter the force of the blows may be increased a bit
> to speed up the tightening of the handle.
>
> Clearly, the inertia of a knife blade held suspended is less than that of
> the head of a hammer or an axe and, off the top of my head, I would suggest
> that greater inertia be imparted to the blade by  attaching a heavy set of
> Vise-Grips to it during the peening process.
>
> Regards from Brisbane,
>
> John Manners
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mike,

I'm not sure if this will work, but will investigate the idea.  The metal
piece, whatever it's name is, is pretty solidly in place, even with
numerous leather washers having already disintegrated and long since having
been lost.  However, that may be simply because of it being swaged into
place like John Manners describes.  It might come loose with a but if a
tap.   At this point, still being involved in the storm recovery, and power
to our house still not restored, I have bigger fish to fry at three
moment.  Maybe next week I can give it a try and provide an update to the
list.

Doc
On Jan 25, 2012 6:58 AM, "Mike Hamilton"  wrote:

> Doc says:
> ...I think my biggest challenge is going to be filing off the
> original peening in order to remove the metal cap in order to install new
> leather washers.  The trick being to fill it off without undue damage to
> the knife.
>
> I'm wondering if the removal of the leather washers (first and
> destructively) might allow the metal cap to move enough toward the
> blade to allow access with file or hammer.  Just curious, 'cuz I have
> no clue what shape the tang is likely to be.
>
> Regards,
> Mike
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
> aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
> value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
> traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.
>
> To change your subscription options:
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
>
> To read the FAQ:
> http://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html
>
> OldTools archive: http://swingleydev.com/archive/
>
> OldTools@r...
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Doc says:
...I think my biggest challenge is going to be filing off the
original peening in order to remove the metal cap in order to install new
leather washers.  The trick being to fill it off without undue damage to
the knife.

I'm wondering if the removal of the leather washers (first and
destructively) might allow the metal cap to move enough toward the
blade to allow access with file or hammer.  Just curious, 'cuz I have
no clue what shape the tang is likely to be.

Regards,
Mike
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thank you.  That might prove very helpful.  I appreciate it.

Doc
On Jan 25, 2012 10:47 AM, "Chuck Myers | OTL" <
galoot@i...> wrote:

> I haven't read all the posts in this thread, so don't know if someone
> has already sent this link:
>
> http://science.discovery.com/videos/how-its-made/#fbid=UKGt4uDMKcw
>
> One of the videos on this How It's Made page features Estwing hammers.
> To get to the episode, you'll need to scroll down to "Hammer Time" and
> click on it.   You'll probably also have to endure a couple of
> 15-second commercials.  Attaching the washers is at the very end of
> the video.  You'll be able to see what they look like and how they're
> cut.  No surprise that the final step in mass production involves a
> machine whose multi-functions might be difficult to emulate at home.
> FWIW.
>
> Chuck Myers
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
> aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
> value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
> traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.
>
> To change your subscription options:
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
>
> To read the FAQ:
> http://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html
>
> OldTools archive: http://swingleydev.com/archive/
>
> OldTools@r...
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------

I haven't read all the posts in this thread, so don't know if someone
has already sent this link:

http://science.discovery.com/videos/how-its-made/#fbid=UKGt4uDMKcw

One of the videos on this How It's Made page features Estwing hammers.
To get to the episode, you'll need to scroll down to "Hammer Time" and
click on it.   You'll probably also have to endure a couple of
15-second commercials.  Attaching the washers is at the very end of
the video.  You'll be able to see what they look like and how they're
cut.  No surprise that the final step in mass production involves a
machine whose multi-functions might be difficult to emulate at home.
FWIW.

Chuck Myers

------------------------------------------------------------------------

John Holladay writes:

> Do you fellows have any suggestions as to the most effective method to 
> do
> this peening to lock in that little steel piece on the butt of the 
> handle?

Just before Christmas a friend asked me to rehabilitate an old Estwing 
geologist's hammer (a la the movie "Shawshank? Redemption" but 
considerably larger than the movie version).  It was intended to be a 
present for my friend's brother.  After rust removal and cleaning off 
the numerous paint spots which bespangled the stacked leather handle 
came the matter of tightening the loose (shrunken?) leather washers 
forming the handle. The washers were relatively intact to the extent 
that they did not require replacing although they needed to be re-shaped 
a little, burnished and polished after tightening.

There was the real prospect that the metal shank leading to the hammer's 
head or the tang above it would be bent or otherwise distorted if the 
head was placed on an anvil and the peened end of the tang, protruding 
through the metal end-cap, given a smack with a hammer.

The most simple thing to do seemed to be to treat the peening of the 
tang's end in the same, counter-intuitive way that an axe's handle is 
driven into the axe's head.

I held the hammer suspended, head down, with my hand on the lower part 
of the leather section and struck the top of the tang with a relatively 
light peening hammer.  Although my left arm (I am right-handed) gave 
under each hammer stroke, the inertia of the head of the workpiece was 
sufficient to permit the top of the tang to be peened further.  All it 
took was about half a dozen peening strokes to take up what had 
previously been a little less than 1/16"  of movement of the handle's 
washers.  I would caution against delivering a too-enthusiastic or 
prolonged peening in this fashion as it is very effective to the extent 
that, in the job described, a washer, less resilient than its fellows, 
was compressed beyond its alignment with the rest of the handle and had 
to be brought back into alignment before final burnishing and polishing 
could be undertaken.

I am pretty sure that new leather washers can be fitted to John's knife 
to maintain a bit of a friction-hold on the tang until, with light 
blows, the top of the tang is sufficiently peened to prevent its being 
driven through the metal end-cap, whereafter the force of the blows may 
be increased a bit to speed up the tightening of the handle.

Clearly, the inertia of a knife blade held suspended is less than that 
of the head of a hammer or an axe and, off the top of my head, I would 
suggest that greater inertia be imparted to the blade by  attaching a 
heavy set of Vise-Grips to it during the peening process.

Regards from Brisbane,

John Manners 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

GG's & John, Peening does not upset the tang of a knife. The end cap is
fitted to the tang.

The tang is tapered.

The tapered tang allows the cap to slide down so far as to tightly
capture the washers and then the tip of the tang is peined.

To remove the cap, file off the peined portion of metal, remove it. Add
your washers use a monkey tool to press the cap into its new position
and pein the tip of the tang.

Should take all of a half hour if your washers are ready to go when
you start.

Good grief. Wes

On Jan 27, 2012, at 6:57 PM, "John Manners"  wrote:
> The effect of the riveting process, hot or cold, seems to be twofold.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

A monkey tool is like a rivet set. It allows you to drive the end cap
onto the tang until it seats without damaging the tip of the tang. With
the cap seated, you can pein the tip to permanently fix the cap on the
end of the tang. Wes

On Jan 27, 2012, at 8:11 PM, WesG  wrote:

> use a monkey tool to press the cap into its new position
------------------------------------------------------------------------

John Holladay has important and urgent matters to deal with in the field
of storm recovery and I am sure that everyone wishes him well in his
endeavours.  He writes:

"The metal  piece, whatever it's name is, is pretty solidly in place,
even with numerous leather washers having already disintegrated and long
since  having been lost.  However, that may be simply because of it
being swaged into place like John Manners describes.  It might come
loose with a but if a tap"

Mike Hamilton writes:

"I'm wondering if the removal of the leather washers (first and
destructively) might allow the metal cap to move enough toward the
blade to allow access with file or hammer.  Just curious, 'cuz I have
no clue what shape the tang is likely to be."

The effect of the riveting process, hot or cold, seems to be twofold.
Not only is the rivet's end peened over but its stem is upset to fill
the space which permitted the stem to be inserted in the hole in the
workpiece in the first place.  It is, possibly, this upsetting of the
tang where it passes through the end-cap which causes the end-cap to
remain "solidly in place".  I should be inclined to heat the end-cap to
not much more than too-hot-to-touch and to chill it suddenly to break
any corrosion bond between the cap and the tang before gently attempting
to knock the end-cap along the tang.

It seems likely that the leather washers have been held in compression
only by the peening of the tang over the cap and that, with some washers
already removed, the cap, as Mike observes, may be slid down the tang a
little, once its present bond with the tang is overcome, to expose a
short length of the tang and the peened end above the cap.  If  this is 
the case there should be no need to file or grind off the original 
peening.  The "chill" should be taken off the peened part of the tang by 
heating. Usually immersion of  a relatively small part to be worked in 
boiling water for half a minute will do but, if doubtful of the water's 
efficacy, a cigarette lighter may be deployed for 5 or 6 seconds. Before 
it cools the top, peened end of the tang is then cold-drawn with a light 
hammer to a taper above the cap until the cap can pass over it.  The 
removal of the "chill" should ensure, 9 times out of 10, that the peened 
part of the tang, which probably has been work-hardened, does not 
crumble to pieces in the cold-drawing process and the result is that the 
tang remains composed of as much metal as was the case originally.  As a 
belt-and-braces precaution the end of the tang should again be slightly 
heated before it is again peened to compress the new handle.

Regards from Brisbane,

John Manners

------------------------------------------------------------------------