Phil wrote:

>      Then I got to thinking it might be tough to mark and saw
> the pins on the ends of a 60" board. I could obviously cut the
> tails on the top and bottom boards and then mark out the pins
> by laying the sides flat on the workbench and offering up
> the tailboards.But what about making the cuts accurately ..
> ..with the boards laid flat it would seem to be a pain to make
> cuts with the saw held vertically.Alternatively,to stand the board upright 
> and make cuts at a 60" height would be awkward also.
>    So,does anyone have any useful tips or experiences with
> long boards?BTW,I have read your oak bookcase project several times
> Jeff.
  
   I've had a couple of instances where I needed to do this.  
For marking, I used the little Pony miter clamps (mitre cramps,
Jeff) to hold the boards at right angles to each other.  I 
clamped the pin board at an angle so that I could easily reach 
the end.  

   For sawing, I laid the board flat on my bench with the end
overhanging slightly more than the depth of the baseline, and
got down on my knees and used a dozuki to saw the pins.  I found 
that a pullsaw seems to work better than my regular dovetail saw
at that angle.


      Chuck Vance