OldTools Archive
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76041 | "Heyza, Dennis" <DHeyza@m...> | 2000‑03‑09 | push drills |
Greetings to all, I would like to get a push drill (stealth WTB) but have a question about the bits. Many of the pictures I've seen show bits that are obviously not normal drill bits. That implies a potential problem when the bits are missing. Can someone tell me if they use standard drill bits? Dennis Heyza Director of Operations Media Design Corporation Madison Heights Michigan Phone 248-691-9109 Fax 248-548-7256 |
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76044 | TomPrice@a... | 2000‑03‑09 | Re: push drills |
Dennis wrote: >Many of the pictures I've seen show bits that are obviously not normal drill >bits. That implies a potential problem when the bits are missing. Can >someone tell me if they use standard drill bits? > The Goodell-Pratt and Millers Falls (who bought out Goodell-Pratt) drills use a sort-of 4 jaw chuck for which bits are hard to find. If you stick with the Yankee #41 or #44 drills you will not have any great trouble finding bits. Stanley still makes the #41 in England and the bits are available new from sources such as Wm. Alden. The Yankee push drills are common enough that I've solved the bit supply problem by never buying a push drill without at least 6 bits in it. Never payed more than $4 for a bit with drills yet. **************************** Tom Price (TomPrice@a...) Will Work For Tools The Galoot's Progress Old Tools site is at: http://members.aol.com/tomprice/galootp/galtprog.html |
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76047 | ralph.brendler@a... (Ralph Brendler) | 2000‑03‑09 | Re: push drills |
Tom Price writes: >If you stick >with the Yankee #41 or #44 drills you will not have any great trouble >finding bits. Stanley still makes the #41 in England and the bits are >available new from sources such as Wm. Alden. One thing to be aware of, though, is that the new Stanley/Yankee bits are twist drills, NOT the 2-flute style used on the older drills. This may be a niggling point to most people, but for Shaker box bands the twist drills are a real problem. The point on the end of the twist bit makes it nearly impossible to drill a hole in the end of a box finger without splitting. The 2-flute bits with their flat tips don't have this problem. The 2-flute bits are very difficult to find in the smallest two sizes (which of course are the ones I need for box work). I buy any that I see... ralph |
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76053 | "Heyza, Dennis" <DHeyza@m...> | 2000‑03‑09 | RE: push drills |
In reply to my push drill question, Ralph wrote - One thing to be aware of, though, is that the new Stanley/Yankee bits are twist drills, NOT the 2-flute style used on the older drills. This may be a niggling point to most people, but for Shaker box bands the twist drills are a real problem. The point on the end of the twist bit makes it nearly impossible to drill a hole in the end of a box finger without splitting. The 2-flute bits with their flat tips don't have this problem. The 2-flute bits are very difficult to find in the smallest two sizes (which of course are the ones I need for box work). I buy any that I see... Thanks for pointing this out Ralph, since my primary reason for buying a push drill was for Shaker boxes. Dennis |
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76061 | Gerry Kmack <gkmack@c...> | 2000‑03‑09 | RE: push drills |
Dennis, Ralph & all other push drill lovin' galoots: FWIW - Last week, I bought a pack of replacement drill bits for my Stanley #41 push drill. The bits that I bought are the old-style "2-flute" type. I bought them "off the rack" @ my local Ace hardware store. Mebbe they're selling old stock? I dunno, but, aside from being a bit pricey ($9.50 for for bits), they owrk great. -- Gerry Kmack / Cave Creek, AZ At Thursday 09:27 AM 3/9/00 , Heyza, Dennis wrote: >In reply to my push drill question, Ralph wrote - > > One thing to be aware of, though, is that the new Stanley/Yankee >bits are > twist drills, NOT the 2-flute style used on the older drills. > > This may be a niggling point to most people, but for Shaker box >bands the > twist drills are a real problem. The point on the end of the twist >bit > makes it nearly impossible to drill a hole in the end of a box >finger > without splitting. The 2-flute bits with their flat tips don't have >this > problem. > > The 2-flute bits are very difficult to find in the smallest two >sizes (which > of course are the ones I need for box work). I buy any that I >see... > > Thanks for pointing this out Ralph, since my primary reason for >buying a push drill was for Shaker boxes. > > Dennis > > > >-- >+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ >Private replies: DHeyza@m... >To signoff or digest: listserv@l... >Archive: http://mailmunch.law.cornell.edu/cgi-bin/archives/OLDTOOLS > Quote sparingly. >+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+ |
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76091 | TomPrice@a... | 2000‑03‑10 | Re: push drills |
Ralph wrote: >Tom Price writes: > >>If you stick >>with the Yankee #41 or #44 drills you will not have any great trouble >>finding bits. Stanley still makes the #41 in England and the bits are >>available new from sources such as Wm. Alden. > >One thing to be aware of, though, is that the new Stanley/Yankee bits are >twist drills, NOT the 2-flute style used on the older drills. As the Seinfeld show's Kramer character says, "You just blew my mind!" I bought a set of Yankee bits for a #41 from William Alden about 3 years ago and they were still the 2-flute models. When did Stanley switch to twist bits? That's really a dumb thing to do since the Yankee push drills are reciprocating and twist drill bits are really designed to rotate continuously in one direction only. **************************** Tom Price (TomPrice@a...) Brakes For Rust New Galoot? You can find the Not Officially Authorized Orientation at the Galoot's Progress: http://members.aol.com/tomprice/galootp/galtprog.html |
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76093 | ralph.brendler@a... (Ralph Brendler) | 2000‑03‑10 | Re: push drills |
Tom Price asks: > I bought a set of Yankee bits for a #41 from William Alden about 3 years > ago and they were still the 2-flute models. When did Stanley switch to > twist bits? I went looking for them last summer, and all I could find were twist bits in a blister pack. Everyone's favorite parts lady, Lori at Stanley, confirmed that that was what they were selling as replacement parts. I also had several galoots around the country trying to round up some new #4 and #5 bits for me, but all they could find were the twist drills. >That's really a dumb thing to do since the Yankee push drills > are reciprocating and twist drill bits are really designed to rotate > continuously in one direction only. I agree, and was a little PO'd that they'd changed the style. The pointy tip makes them all but worthless for thin stock. ralph |
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76095 | "Nideffer" <mccune@j...> | 2000‑03‑10 | Re: push drills |
I saw a new set of Stanley 2-flute bits in my local hardware store last week. they were a little pricey at $22, however. Nevertheless, I was pleasantly surprised to see them still in production/for sale. Ross A. Nideffer |
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76131 | "Ide, Curtis (ISSAtlanta)" <CIde@i...> | 2000‑03‑10 | RE: push drills |
Folks, I've been lurking for a few weeks now, but this is my first opportunity to post. I learned woodworking with my father using his 1952 ShopSmith. I also took woodshop in high-school. After that, I took about 10 years off. One day about 8 years ago, my dad called and said "I've been having so much fun with this new table saw, that I want to buy you one!" Obviously, I said "Great, thanks!" A couple years later, my twin brother (who had gotten the same free saw from my dad, too) gave me an antique Stanley #6 plane. I've become a hand-tool convert. I must confess, though, that I still find much use of certain power tools. Since then, I've done many small projects and have acquired a few additional planes, chisels, saws, etc., but I'm mainly a user rather than a collector. My biggest accomplishments are having made two complete hardwood workbenches. Sadly, the first one was made from wood infested with powder-post beetles. I didn't realize it until 3 years later. I retired that beetle-breeding ground (and swore off air-dried ash) and built a new bench. While I learned a lot in the process of designing and building the benches and vises, it sure took a lot of hours! I'm certainly enjoying this mailing list!! > > Ralph wrote: > > ago and they were still the 2-flute models. When did Stanley > switch to > twist bits? > Now to the subject at hand. About a month or two ago, I saw in the Highland Hardware store that you could purchase either the 2-flute or twist drill bits for the push-drill. So, maybe Stanley still makes both, but stores don't carry them. Curtis ===================================== Curtis Ide Director, Engineering cide@i... |
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76144 | eugene@t... | 2000‑03‑10 | RE: push drills |
Push drill fans: This thread is still somewhat alive, so about the concern with twist drills splitting thin wood: There are many ways to reshape the cutting edge of a drill, all intended to make it do what _you_ want it to do. The off-the-shelf standard isn't good for everything, and isn't intended to be. Just like using a back bevel on a plane iron to change the angle of attack for particular problems, drill bits are often modified by knocking off the aggressive cutting edge, back to a much less agressive angle. That's good for copper, brass, lead - where the standard would just screw itself in. Another common rework is for thin sheet metal. For a round hole, the entire point angle is removed except for a pilot point - making it much like a piloted Forstner. Otherwise it will make an undersize rounded triangle hole in thin stock - metal or wood. Bits are like every other other tool you might buy. They need a sharpening tuneup when you get them. But we aren't prisoners of the production line, and can turn their stuff into something useful, based on what we need. Experiment with the cutting angle and even the point angle. There is no reason a straight flute bit made by Goodell-Pratt is the only way to go. And since I mentioned them, and have one of their thingies, I don't see why their four jawed chuck wouldn't grip a modern twist bit if the shank was filed square. It's also very easy to make your own half flute drill from round drill stock. It acts a lot like a Forstner but you can make it yourself in no time. Lot's of territory to be explored. Gene |
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