On Mon, 14 Jun 1999 23:10:57 -0400 Howard Slack 
writes:
>Douglas S Caprette wrote:
>>
>> JPagona@a... writes:
>> >3.  Which oil is best for saturation, boiled or raw linseed oil?
>> >
>>
>> Raw.  The boiled oil might polymerise too soon and plug the pores.
>>
>I have read that boiled is preferred as a finish because the raw will
>never really dry. I use the Maloof mixture - 1/2 boiled linseed oil,
>1/2
>varnish, and 1/2 mineral spirits (or for other things I just leave the
>varnish out completely, using thinned-down boiled linseed oil. How
>would
>this affect the plane? I wouldn't want a sticky surface from undried
>oil. In fact just before I read your post I was wondering what raw
>linseed oil WOULD be good for.
>

My thoughts are simple.  In this application the oil is not being used
as a finish.  It is being used as a stabiliser.  The object is to
saturate
the wood through and through.  Moreover a little oil seeping out
onto the sole of the plane would be a good thing while the plane is is
use I should think.

I don't think a surface finish of any sort will have anyting but an
esthetic effect on the plane.  It won't stabilise it at all, and
considering
that you cannot finish the sole might even contribute to warpage due
to uneven mosture exchange between the sole and the top.

If the wood is saturated with oil there is no 'room' inside for
water.

I've also read onthe list that people who restore planes have
better luck using raw oil to swell checks closed that when they
use boiled.  Here it seems theory and practice agree.

By all means for a surface finish use boiled oil.  Better yet,
use Tung oil with a dryer added.  My favorite oil finish is
tung oil diluted 50/50 with a 'tung oil based' danish oil.

I basicaly use the danish oil simply as a thinner and source
for dryers.