~  -----Original Message-----
~  From: owner-oldtools@l...
~  [mailto:owner-oldtools@l...]On Behalf Of Ron
Hock
~  Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 7:31 PM
~  To: oldtools@l...
~  Subject: Re: Iron thicknesses was Re: FWW Smoothing Plane Article
~
~  One thing not mentioned in the blade side-bar in the FWW
~  article: while
~  discussing the advantages of the Holtey and Clifton blades
~  he fails to
~  mention that thicker blades won't work in the standard Bailey
pattern
~  planes. Since the blade adjuster dog must pass through the blade
and
~  engage the breaker, too much additional blade thickness and the
~  mechanism won't work. You also have to back out the
~  hold-down screw too
~  far for it to grip well or at all.

Which brings to this sometimes-inventive mind the possiblilty of
locally increasing the thickness of the cap-iron in the area of the
yoke socket. Given accurate sizing of the socket, you could also
reduce some of the backlash (lost motion), though too close a fit
might generate problems. Sweating in place a couple of pads (silver
solder?) should do the trick. Their thickness should be no greater
than the thickness of the thinnest iron in your kit. Naturally, they
should fit into the cutting iron's slot.

The hold-down screw is a more serious worry, unless you have a friend
like Richard Wilson who made me a special with a deep cheese head that
facilitates adjustment of this screw to accommodate different blade
thicknesses.

Always assuming that thickness matters! 8-). Well, a change is useful
if you want to go from very fine mouth to a general duty mouth without
the bother of adjusting the frog.

Jeff