Thanks to all who've provided input! I'm trying to reply to
all the EMails in one here, to keep the info in one spot.
I'll try to trim things down as much as I can while still
keeping the threads together:

I still can't quite
nail it down, but it's probably not a Langdon based
on Jim Barker's picture. Mine doesn't have the cutouts in
the base and back. And while most of the saw post assembly
matches, the release lever in the picture looks like
it's on the right side of the rotating assembly, whereas
mine's directly underneath. Otherwise it matches pretty closely
though. Based on Charlie Newbold's info, it's probably a
1285 (though that doesn't mean much to me B^)). More info
below:

Jim Barker wrote:
>

> The following URL points to a picture of a partial Millers Falls Langdon
> Type mitre box:
>
> http://www.azstarnet.com/~barkerj/Langdon.htm
>
> I just happen to have this pic for other reasons and of course there is no
> saw and there are some pieces missing off of the saw guides.  This is the
> type I am familiar with -- although there is not a thumbscrew to lock down
> the carriage as you talk about.

Calling it a thumb screw was a poor choice of words. It's almost
exactly like the rotating lever that would lock a caster from
rolling.

TomPrice@a... wrote:
>
>
> This sounds very much like a Millers Falls 'All Steel' miterbox which I
> have downstairs. Is the miterbox made of steel? Are there bronze plugs in
> the posts for the back of the saw to ride on?

The box is made of steel as opposed to being a large casting. The
base plates are welded onto a frame made from about 1"x3/16" steel
strap formed into a rectangular shape. There are bronze inserts in
the tops of the posts. I didn't see that the saw would actually
ride on them in any way though.

Newbold wrote:
>

>
> Sounds like my MF 1285.  The name plate is a thin aluminum piece pop riveted
> onto the front saw post.

And inspection shows a couple of rivets sticking out and a
slight change in finish where the plate used to be. B^(

>
.
>
> >Each saw post is set up for a depth stop, with a large
> >knurled nut screwing into the post and holding a slotted
> >piece with a bent over end. Missing the front one, but
> >it won't be a big deal to cobble together a replacement.
>
> Those pieces can be adjusted to give just a little clearance between the
> blade teeth and the metal slot.  If you set them just right and have a
> slightly tapered saw blade, the board will be cut thru only when the saw is
> pushed tight to the front saw post.

Turned out there are actually two depth setting mechanisms. The
ones Charlie just described (fairly small and on the left side
of my posts) that require a screwdriver to adjust and are indeed,
I'm sure, the "bottoming out" adjustments. Both of these are present
on the box I have. There is still another
larger one that I described. When I lower that all the way then
the blade is stopped by the bottoming out adjusters. When I raise
it and tighten it down the saw rods still move fine, so whoever
had a problem with this probably has the pieces bent. Charlie mentioned
in a later post that this stop could be used as a depth stop
for cutting tenon shoulders and the like. I've done exactly that
with my old (newer? geeze, things can get confusing in oldtools
sometimes) miter box.

>
> >The saw posts have another screw opposite where the depth
> >adjuster screws go. Haven't looked at it that carefully
> >but it's probably to take up slack in the saw guide.
>
> Hmm, on mine, there is an assembly there (left side of posts) that is
> basically a spring loaded pin that goes into a groove cut at the bottom end
> of the saw post.  Lift the post(s)(and saw) enough and the spring driven pin
> drops into the slot and holds the saw in the air so you can position the
> wood for a cut.  Pull the pin out a bit and the saw can drop down.
>

Ahyup, that's they way they work. They were tightened down so much
that they didn't spring out. Plus they were a bit stuck. Loosing the
lock screw and pushing the pins freed them up and they work just as
Charlie describes.

> Also, take a look at the saw kerf slot.  Below it there should be a big
> slotted screw.  If you loosen it, you can pull the front saw post out enough
> to fit a 10" board flat on the base.  Try that with your average tailed
> mitre box!

Yep, got that too. It is pretty cool and would give a D705 a run
for the money. Uh, if I had one of course. Or would admit it, anyway.
B^)

>
> >What else? Oh, the saw was about a 28" Disston and Sons
> >in good shape.

Saw did measure 28" on the nose, and had no markings other than the
Disston and Sons stamped on the spine (and the medallion saw nut, of
course). Once again, thanks to all who helped on this, and I hope
the info can be of use to others with unidentified miter boxes.

Jim