At 06:14 PM 8/10/98, Jim Foster wrote:

>Bought a miter box at an auction. Wanted it because it


>I suspect it's a MF because of the colors, but I can't
>find any ID on it. Most of it is black, with the bed
>being what I'd call MF red. The back is "corrugated" with a wavy
>pattern. The bed has a pattern of raised bumps on it.
>Two post design with no cross piece on the top of the posts.
>Angle adjusts by pulling up on a lever underneath the
>arm that pulls a pin out from the body and allows the
>blade carriage to move. Also has a thumbscrew to lock
>down the carraige.

Sounds like my MF 1285.  The name plate is a thin aluminum piece pop riveted
onto the front saw post.

>There is a length stop holder on
>each end of the bed. The holders can be adjusted
>forwards and backwards on the bed. There is one rod
>included with a 90deg bend that can be put in either
>holder and adjusted for length. The holders were a
>bit odd in that they were identical rather than being
>mirror images of each other. The one on the right seems
>more correct in that it can be adjusted so that the
>stop rod clamp would be behind the back and thus more
>out of the way. The left side one needs to have the
>rod clamp toward the front in order for the holder to
>be able to be slid throughout its adjusting range.
>If the holder is put toward the back it will hit the
>back of the box.
>

Unfortunately, my box rods are MIA, so I can't help there.

>Each saw post is set up for a depth stop, with a large
>knurled nut screwing into the post and holding a slotted
>piece with a bent over end. Missing the front one, but
>it won't be a big deal to cobble together a replacement.

Those pieces can be adjusted to give just a little clearance between the
blade teeth and the metal slot.  If you set them just right and have a
slightly tapered saw blade, the board will be cut thru only when the saw is
pushed tight to the front saw post.

>The saw posts have another screw opposite where the depth
>adjuster screws go. Haven't looked at it that carefully
>but it's probably to take up slack in the saw guide.

Hmm, on mine, there is an assembly there (left side of posts) that is
basically a spring loaded pin that goes into a groove cut at the bottom end
of the saw post.  Lift the post(s)(and saw) enough and the spring driven pin
drops into the slot and holds the saw in the air so you can position the
wood for a cut.  Pull the pin out a bit and the saw can drop down.

Also, take a look at the saw kerf slot.  Below it there should be a big
slotted screw.  If you loosen it, you can pull the front saw post out enough
to fit a 10" board flat on the base.  Try that with your average tailed
mitre box!

>What else? Oh, the saw was about a 28" Disston and Sons
>in good shape. Also, all the knurled nuts have a transverse
>hole in them. Maybe to insert a nail/rod to help loosen them
>if overtightened (or to overtighten them in the first place
>I suppose B^))

Mine too.  Use a nail set, the hardened steel would be less likely to bend.
>I'm guessing the whole thing dates from
>about the early 50's or so. Can anyone help me out on
>this? Further information provided by request. B^)

Maybe so for the start date.  My box was originally used by my father and
was well worn by the time I was old enough to be impressed by it (around
1956).  I have seen an early FWW with an ad for 3 sizes of this box, so they
were still being sold in the 78-82 timeframe; even after the introduction of
power mitre boxes.

If this is what you have, then you have a fine box.  Enjoy it.  I used mine
this past week to do some window trim and it is still working fine after at
least 50 years of service.

Just say, tmPL, my father was a Galoot before we existed.
Charlie Newbold