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36713 | BRUCE THACKER <AB-THACKER@w...> | 1998‑02‑10 | Stanley #95 Butt Gauge |
Greetings to all!! Yes, I'm new to this list and yes I did do some lurking before joining. I come not from the age of Norm but from the age of James (Krenov that is). Started making most of my own tools nearly 20 years ago. I'm now at the point where my In-Laws wonder why I even bother turning on the lights when working. Several years ago I inherited a number of tools from two working carpenters in the San Francisco area. All tools are from the late 1800's & turn of the century. Thanks to the work of many of you I have been able to type & date most of them. Cleaning and using them has been a joy. I am just now getting to making use of some of the smaller items. At present I am trying to figure out exactly how the #95 butt gauge was used. Mine is a "Type 2" so it couldn't be used as a sm. square. If anyone can enlighten me, please do. I'm also looking for type study information on the Stanley #46. I've got two, one of which I believe dates to 1880-1884. It seems like all the interest is in the #45 with little if any attention paid to the #46. Thanks. Bruce Thacker ---------------------------------------------------------------- Private replies: |
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36728 | David Hunkins <drhunk@c...> | 1998‑02‑10 | RE: Stanley #95 Butt Gauge |
At 2/10/1998 02:49 PM, Brendler, Ralph wrote: >Aaargh! I just read this over, and realized that I had >the direction of one point BACKWARDS on my diagram! Whew!! Just in time. I just was just going for my file ..... Seriously, tho ... very nice lecture, Ralph. Appreciated by one who has several of these puppies and never understood the subtle intricacies. I assume this will be on the next exam? Thanks, David ---------------------------------------------------------------- Private replies: |
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36724 | "Brendler, Ralph" <ralph@s...> | 1998‑02‑10 | RE: Stanley #95 Butt Gauge |
Bruce Thacker writes: >At present I am trying to figure out exactly how the #95 butt >gauge was used. Mine is a "Type 2" so it couldn't be used as a sm. >square. If anyone can enlighten me, please do. Ah, yes-- a marking gage question! My day is now complete... ;-) I'm a big fan of the #95-- It's an incredibly handy tool for hinge mortises, and it makes a swell marking gage as well. Add to this the fact that they're dirt cheap, and you've got a tool that should be in every galoot's set. Setting it up is quite straightforward, but not intuitively obvious. Once you understand the basics, however, it's clear. Consider the following to be butt gages 101: ;-) [quoting from my Gage Page] The butt gage is a specialization of the marking gage which is designed for marking mortises for butt hinges. This is a surprisingly complicated job with little room for error-- if the hinges are not properly placed, the door may not work properly (or at all). There are two common situations encountered in butt mortising-- one in which the door is being fitted into a rabbeted jamb, and one in which the strike for the door is nailed on. In each situation, the marking job is slightly different. In the case of a rabbeted jamb, the most important thing is to mark the hinges such that a small gap (usually 1/16") exists between the face of the door and the back of the rabbet. If this gap is not present, the door will bind. Butt gages designed for this situation will mark a specific distance from the corner of the rabbet, and a corresponding distance (minus the desired gap) from the face of the door. [snip] In the case of a nailed-on strike, the job is much simpler. Since the strike is added later, there is no need to account for the gap between the strike and the door. In this situation the hinge depth is marked referencing the outside of the jamb and the corresponding side of the door, so the door will be flush with the jamb. [end quoting] The #95 is designed for the first scenario-- marking for a rabbeted jamb. The #95 has two arms: one with a single point, and one with two points. The single point arm is used to mark hinge thickness (nothing fancy there). It's the two-point arm that does the interesting work. If you look carefully at the two-point arm, you will notice that it has this general layout: /|___________________ |___________________ | \| The important thing to notice is that one point is bevelled on the inside and one on the outside. Now if we look at the arm as used in the #95, we have: -A-- __/|______________ | |____ | |___ | | | |/ | |-B- |__________________| Since the arm is exactly the same length as the body of the gage, you can see that the distance A is greater than the distance B by the thickness of the scribe. This is the clearance distance for the door. To use the #95, you would mark distance A referencing the side of the rabbet in the door jamb, distance B referencing the outside face of the door, and (as Jeff would say) "Bob's your uncle!" Hope this clarifies things. I'd be happy to answer any further questions. I'd also be willing to write up Butt Gages 102 and maybe even Butt Gages 200 if there's any interest. I have to draw the line at Butt Gages 400 (setting up a #92 for mortising), though... ;-) ralph ============================================================ Ralph Brendler (ENB/FOYBIPO/OTLM) Chicago, IL Woodworker and Collector of Antique Marking Gages http://www.mcs.net/~brendler/oldtools ---------------------------------------------------------------- Private replies: |
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36726 | "Brendler, Ralph" <ralph@s...> | 1998‑02‑10 | RE: Stanley #95 Butt Gauge |
Aaargh! I just read this over, and realized that I had the direction of one point BACKWARDS on my diagram! Here is the proper ASCII art (note that the point at A has been turned to face the proper direction): > -A-- > ___|\______________ > | |____ > | |___ | > | | |/ > | |-B- > |___________________| My apologies for the confusion. ralph ============================================================ Ralph Brendler (ENB/FOYBIPO/OTLM) Chicago, IL Woodworker and Collector of Antique Marking Gages http://www.mcs.net/~brendler/oldtools ---------------------------------------------------------------- Private replies: |
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36867 | Dnbyr@a... | 1998‑02‑11 | Re: Stanley #95 Butt Gauge |
Ralph wrote: << Aaargh! I just read this over, and realized that I had the direction of one point BACKWARDS on my diagram! Here is the proper ASCII art (note that the point at A has been turned to face the proper direction): > -A-- > ___|\______________ > | |____ > | |___ | > | | |/ > | |-B- > |___________________| My apologies for the confusion. ralph>> Ralph! I'm so relieved! I thought this was a Rorschach test, and when I tested myself on the first sketch, the analysis of my interpretation indicated "multiple personality syndrome, some personalities are psychopathic, some sociopathic, and even worse, some worship Norm Abrams as Messiah." I retested myself on the revised sketch and I'm pleased to report, I am "mildly neurotic, manic-depressive, obsessive-compulsive, anal retentive and addicted to old hand tools." I can live with that! :-) I second Dave Hunkins salute. Thanks for the great seminar on the 95! Don ---------------------------------------------------------------- Private replies: Dnbyr@a... Public replies: oldtools@l... To subscribe, signoff, to digest: listserv@l... Other housekeeping: oldtools-owner@l... Archive: http://mailmunch.law.cornell.edu/cgi-bin/archives/OLDTOOLS When quoting, edit severely. |
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36876 | Walter Barry <wdwrkr@i...> | 1998‑02‑12 | RE: Stanley #95 Butt Gauge |
Ralph, here's a clip ascii from the past, when we were chatting about rabbet v. marking gages. Salaman describes a butt gauge will mark OUT from a stop, where as other gauges mark IN from an edge. And a couple of illustrations incl.a #95. Later he defines (and shows) a rabbet (or rebate) gauge as "A brass stock fitted at an angle to the end of a handle and carrying a _CUTTING_ spur and adjustable fence. Made _FOR_ rebating small straight or curved work, e.g. picture frames and the like." |
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