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278320 John Ruth <johnrruth@h...> 2024‑03‑14 Designing a saw till for sloped ceiling
GG's

We've all seen plans for saw tills for vertical walls, but how about a design
for shops with sloped ceilings?

The basic vertical saw till design rests the saws on their handles in such a way
that the saws are easy to grab.  It also makes it possible to store many sizes
and lengths of saws in one till.

I'd like to get the opinion of The Porch on a design for a saw till to be
mounted on a sloped ceiling.  Does anyone have a design!?

My current doodles have cumbersome features, like having to insert each saw into
an individual slot.  I'd like to figure out something more convenient.

John Ruth
Metuchen, NJ
Reminiscing about the long ago galoot saw till group build.  It was back in the
last century.
278321 Norm Wood <normw013@f...> 2024‑03‑14 Re: Designing a saw till for sloped ceiling
Hi John,

Are you thinking of a till that hugs the ceiling or one that hangs down 
from the ceiling?

Norm
with naught but a question to contribute...

Near Madison, WI
278324 Kirk Eppler 2024‑03‑14 Re: Designing a saw till for sloped ceiling
Bottom posted, sorry for those who aren’t use to that.

Sent from my iPad, apologies for the Auto Correct errors. Kirk


On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 12:40 PM John Ruth  wrote:

>
> I'd like to get the opinion of The Porch on a design for a saw till to be
> mounted on a sloped ceiling.  Does anyone have a design!?
>
> My current doodles have cumbersome features, like having to insert each
> saw into an individual slot.  I'd like to figure out something more
> convenient.
>

Talking completely out of my posterior here, since I’ve never done this,
and only thought about it slightly longer than it took to read the email,
so proceed with caution, and giggling if it’s a really bad idea.

Starting with the Gun rack converted to a saw till that I use to guide the
discussions

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Shop-Stuff/i-Nb4FGjS/A

You can see the slotted board on the back wall that keeps those scary sharp
teeth away from each other, I see that as a requirement, note there is
space above it.  The saw shown in my picture is too long for the design I
am going to propose, the “carcass” would need to longer than shown.

Assuming mounting to the angled ceiling now, and my up is still up, I would
reverse the position of the slotted board(#1), so it would be closer to the
camera, oriented so it would hold the back of the saw, not the tooth line.
It would still be mounted somewhere so your shortest saw would fit.

To keep the saws from falling, I would add a board (#2) in a similar
orientation to the slotted board, but at a height so that it would hold
your shortest handle comfortably.  This would replace the dowel that the
handle is shown resting on.

When putting a saw in the till, put the back of the toe end in a slot in
board #1, then you would need enough space above (uphill of) board #1 so
that the entire saw can  fit (slide uphill) above board #2, then raise the
handle above board #2, and then lower the saw handle toward the bottom, so
it doesn’t fall out and whack you on the melon.  Fatter slots on the
bottom, or in board #2, could keep the handles separate, if that appeals to
you.

Leaving board #2 narrow, instead of covering the entire bottom of the
carcass, will give you a view of the handle, and room to pick it up, slide
it uphill above board #2, allowing removal.

Backsaws would obviously require much large slots than regular plate thick
slots on handsaws.

Ok, you may now proceed to laughing, pot shots etc.  having never had to do
ASCII art, I won’t defame the art by trying.  Maybe later I can sketch it up


Kirk in Half Moon Bay, CA, where the work deluge has slowed to a steady
rain, so I might see the inside of the garage soon.




>


-- 
Kirk Eppler in Half Moon Bay, CA 
278325 John Ruth <johnrruth77@g...> 2024‑03‑15 Re: Designing a saw till for sloped ceiling
Norm,

What I have in mind would be a "sloping wall hugger."   Preferably something
that would have minimum protrusion into the room.

It's hard to say  whether an attic or garret room has sloping walls or sloping
ceilings. 😉

John Ruth
278332 cowtown_eric <ecoyle@t...> 2024‑03‑15 Re: Designing a saw till for sloped ceiling
A single neodynium magnet will hold a saw strongly in a vertical position.

Two of them maybe 5-6" apart would almost certainly hold them at an angle
of any degree.


maybe a smaller magnet on top as a 3/4" magnet has a strong pull

Eric
278334 Don Schwartz <dks@t...> 2024‑03‑16 Re: Designing a saw till for sloped ceiling
As I envisage this, the nicest feature would be that you could see both 
the handle and the teeth while saws are in the till.

Don

On 2024-03-15 5:34 p.m., cowtown_eric wrote:
> A single neodynium magnet will hold a saw strongly in a vertical position.
>
> Two of them maybe 5-6" apart would almost certainly hold them at an angle
> of any degree.
>
>
> maybe a smaller magnet on top as a 3/4" magnet has a strong pull
>
> Eric
>
>
> 
>
>

-- 

\u201cWe should feel offended or unsettled when we hear the word homeless not 
because we stigmatize those experiencing it but because we are ashamed 
at our own moral culpability in its existence and the continued harm it 
inflicts on the most vulnerable.\u201d Josh Kruger

\u201cTo argue with a man who has renounced the use and authority of reason, 
and whose philosophy consists in holding humanity in contempt, is like 
administering medicine to the dead, or endeavoring to convert an atheist 
by scripture.\u201d \u2015 Thomas Paine, The American Crisis
278338 Thomas Conroy 2024‑03‑18 Re: Designing a saw till for sloped ceiling
John Ruth wrote" "What I have in mind would be a "sloping wall hugger."
Preferably something that would have minimum protrusion into the room."
Saws pointed down not up? With handles at waist height, and blades sloped into
the area near the eaves that would be waste anyway?

Tom Conroy
278345 John Ruth <johnrruth77@g...> 2024‑03‑19 Re: Designing a saw till for sloped ceiling
GG's

Lots of nice ideas here! Thank you, all!

The "nose down into the eves" configuration works except where the space has
"knee walls"

The basic configuration is starting to jell.  It will be a bit less than 14
inches wide to nestle between two rafters.  It will be a box with an open
bottom. The upper end will have slots to insert the blades.  The toe ends will
be held parallel by a kerfed crosspiece athwart the open bottom.  Perhaps
multiple kerfed crosspieces so that shorter saws can be supported.

I want an airspace between the top of the box and the underside of the
uninsulated roof sheathing.

John Ruth
Thinking back to the short panel saw with which his father introduced him to
woodworking, and wishing he hadn't kinked it in a moment of juvenile
carelessness.  Also wishing he hadn't left it behind when he tearfully cleared
out his father's workshop.

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