OldTools Archive

Recent Search Bios FAQ

266736 Bill Ghio 2018‑10‑10 Finishing Question?
My wife had a concept: An old door or such as a headboard for the guest room
bed. No longer a concept. We now have two shutters to be re-programmed. Old
shutters. Probably early 19th C. Hand forged hardware. Big honkin’ strap hinges.
Square pegs in round holes. Paint that will probably fry your brain.

I scrubbed them w/ TSP today and got all the debris & loose stuff off. They will
need a finish to seal them up tight. All I can think of is shellac or poly.Don’t
want it to be too bright. Dull and flat is best.

Suggestions?

Bill
266739 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2018‑10‑10 Re: Finishing Question?
What about a coat or two of mat or satin varnish applied with a stiff brush to
get it into the crannies

Ed Minch
266745 "yorkshireman@y..." <yorkshireman@y...> 2018‑10‑11 Re: Finishing Question?
I’d hate to sound like a certain Pddy O’Deen, but shellac is your friend.  

Brush some on, with the work horizontal.  It will flow into everywhere and both
tie down the the loose stuff and give a sterile quick drying finish.  Repeat as
needed.  IF you want to knock back the shine, acquire some pumice powder (Sharp
edged, fine graded output of volcanos, Paddy)
Place said powder in a coarse muslin bag, made by taking up a square of muslin
with powder piled in the centre and tying with a bit of string.

Shake the bag over the work to shower with powder.  Use the other muslin scrim
to rub the sharp pumice powder over the areas to knock back the shine as much as
you want.  practice on scrap.

Richard
Yorkshireman Galoot, in Northumberland, visiting the deep south of Herefordshire
266746 Patrick Olguin 2018‑10‑11 Re: Finishing Question?
Hey,I resemble that! An alternate method of flatting shellac is to use steel
wool, or scotch brite (a trade name, alas, not a type of whiskey, Richard) pad,
lubricated with mineral oil or kerosene (paraffin, to Yorkshiremen), and rub
gently, after the shellac has tried for a few days.
Best regards,PaddyO

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 10:23 AM, yorkshireman@y... 
wrote:

I’d hate to sound like a certain Pddy O’Deen, but shellac is your friend.  

Brush some on, with the work horizontal.  It will flow into everywhere and both
tie down the the loose stuff and give a sterile quick drying finish.  Repeat as
needed.  IF you want to knock back the shine, acquire some pumice powder (Sharp
edged, fine graded output of volcanos, Paddy)
Place said powder in a coarse muslin bag, made by taking up a square of muslin
with powder piled in the centre and tying with a bit of string.

Shake the bag over the work to shower with powder.  Use the other muslin scrim
to rub the sharp pumice powder over the areas to knock back the shine as much as
you want.  practice on scrap.

Richard
Yorkshireman Galoot, in Northumberland, visiting the deep south of Herefordshire

> On 10 Oct 2018, at 02:18, Bill Ghio via OldTools  wrote:
> 
> My wife had a concept: An old door or such as a headboard for the guest room
bed. No longer a concept. We now have two shutters to be re-programmed. Old
shutters. Probably early 19th C. Hand forged hardware. Big honkin’ strap hinges.
Square pegs in round holes. Paint that will probably fry your brain.
> 
> I scrubbed them w/ TSP today and got all the debris & loose stuff off. They
will need a finish to seal them up tight. All I can think of is shellac or
poly.Don’t want it to be too bright. Dull and flat is best.
> 
> Suggestions?
> 
> Bill
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
> aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
> value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
> traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.
> 
> To change your subscription options:
> > https:/
/oldtools.swingleydev.com/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
> 
> To read the FAQ:
> > https://swingleydev.com/a
rchive/faq.html
> 
> > OldTools archive: https://swingleydev.
com/ot/
> 
> OldTools@s...

------------------------------------------------------------------------
OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.

To change your subscription options:
https://old
tools.swingleydev.com/mailman/listinfo/oldtools

To read the FAQ:
https://swingleydev.com/archi
ve/faq.html

OldTools archive: https://swingleydev.com/
ot/

OldTools@s...
266748 yorkshireman@y... 2018‑10‑11 Re: Finishing Question?
Bah, humbug,  

Don’t listen to all that newfangled  steel wool and scotch nonsense.  Use the
sharp volcano dust..

No, really, Any of the methods to knock back the high gloss of shellac will
work.  Personally, I avoid steel wool, because a lot of what i do is oak, and
tiny steel dust particles  do not mix with oak.  (Sometime later they reveal
themselves as rust spots)   I use scotch brite, but it steadily goes blunt (as
does steel wool)
Hence - volcano dust.  


R

with thanks to Paddy for making me consider why I ‘always’ do the same thing.
266751 "John M Johnston (jmjhnstn)" <jmjhnstn@m...> 2018‑10‑11 Re: Finishing Question?
Galoots Assembled,

Mostly I build reproduction 18th century furniture using primarily black walnut
but some cherry and tiger maple.  I finish using 5-7 coats of one-pound cut
shellac.  Each coat including the final coat is followed by a thorough rubbing
out using 0000 Liberon steel wool.  I vacuum and wipe down between applications.
The grain on the woods I use is tight enough so that after the first coat, there
is no effort by steel wool particles to hang about.  I've tried the various
colors of scotch brite but find that the steel wool cuts better for the effort
required to achieve the satin finish I desire.

More to the point of the original post, I highly recommend shellac for the
application.  When more protection is desired, on a couple of pieces of
traveling furniture that are subject to moisture, I have followed 5-7 coats of
thinned shellac with two coats of thinned satin varnish, also rubbed out using
0000 steel wool.  No issues with wet mugs, spilled alcohol, or even the odd rain
drop or two.  Ya just can't go wrong with shellac, and it's easy to control the
sheen by how much you rub out.

"Everyone to their own tastes," said the old lady as she kissed the cow.

John

John M. Johnston
jmjhnstn@m...
“P.S. If you do not receive this, of course it must have been miscarried;
therefore I beg you to write and let me know.” - Sir Boyle Roche, M.P.

Recent Search Bios FAQ