This has been a topic here before, and, IIRC, the reference of choice is
_Scissors_Sam_Says_Be_Sharp_ .


I have sharpened a lot of scissors over the years, but I am not an expert. I
have never removed the screw for to do sharpening, and on many makes, removal is
not intended. The screw is upset to keep it from moving or other holding means
is used. I generally hold one blade in a vise (wood face, match the angle of the
existing grind, and stone (conventional or diamond) the edge. Depending on
intended use, I may stop at course, or go quite fine to a mirror polish.


DO NOT cut sandpaper with scissors. It will ruin them. Work the edge (narrow,
touches the paper or cloth being but, not the other blade), not the faces
(slides in contact with the other blade) of the blades. On many older scissors,
the faces are slightly hollow ground, an many better makes still have the blades
slightly curved toward each other to keep a good shear contact over the entire
cut. The contact point between the blades should happen on its own, not require
the help of you hand to maintain it. This is different than, say, sheet metal
shears, where the blades tend to be looser.


The profile of the edge (curve and rake) varies beased on make and model. I have
a set of Wiss editors shears with about 10 degree rake (made for trimming flimsy
paper for layout... Circa 1930)  and a set of Wiss sewing shears with a rake of
45 degrees.... you could use one blade as a knife. And many between these.


If the business edge in nicked, it can take a lot to get it back. DO NOT succumb
to temptation and work the face of the blade. You will regret it.


A previous thread that was helpful to me is http://swingleydev.com/ot/g
et/122289/thread/#122289">http://swingleydev.com/ot/get/122289/thread/#122289
*** This message was sent from a convenience email service, and the reply
address(es) may not match the originating address