Galoots,
Well, it's not a turntable, exactly, but a replacement base. I
inherited an old Dual turntable from a friend, but storage in my
parents' hot attic while I was at college pretty much ruined the
faux wood base. For some reason, I finally decided to fix it, using
no electrons for extra fun.
First step: resawing a 13/16" QS bubinga offcut, then ripping it. Both
steps accomplished with an Atkins 400 5-1/2 pt, and this was my best
resaw effort yet (which ain't saying much).
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1503&bgcolor=black
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1505&bgcolor=black
The carcase was dovetailed together with through dovetails. Pretty
straightforward, and nothing to brag about there. Lots of chalk to
remind me of pin vs tail, up vs down.
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1666&bgcolor=black
The tricky part was dealing with the cutout that the mechanism fits
into. It has weird cutouts, angles, and holes:
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1991&bgcolor=black
Wanting to use solid wood for that, I picked butternut since it's easy
to work, can be readily ebonized, and I have scrap on hand. I
resawed/ripped 3/4" stock, and came up with a mitred bridle joint with
an oddly shaped shoulder:
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1667&bgcolor=black
I figured this would give it good strength for the mismatched widths,
and the 45 degree angle on each corner would be the only visible join
line. Some careful paring was in order here, and I also had another
excuse to pull out the mitre jack I made last year. The floats I made
earlier this year were useful in tuning the fit, since the tenon is only
1/8" thick.
After gluing up the interior frame and the carcase with hot hide glue, I
used a coping saw to do the curves and cutouts in the frame. My biggest
mistake was in trying to use an auger bit to bore the holes (for the
turntable support springs). A #11 auger bit near the edge of thin stock
that splits easily was not such a hot idea.
I did the remaining holes by boring a starter with an eggbeater and then
cutting them with a coping saw. The split from the auger was repaired
with hide glue, and will probably last as long as this turntable.
The butternut is ebonized with rusty vinegar, the bubinga has a coat of
BLO+turpentine, and everything has several coats of amber shellac for a
final finish.
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1987&bgcolor=black
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1986&bgcolor=black
The interior frame sits on glue blocks, rather than a groove as in the
original, mainly for better support. With the mechanism in place:
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1989&bgcolor=black
http://gallery.me.com/amaxwell#100179/IMG_1990&bgcolor=black
For the really bored and/or persistent, here's the list of tools used:
-- SAWS --
- Atkins #400 5-1/2 pt rip saw
- Disston #12 11 pt crosscut (new for this project!)
- Atkins #2 for dovetails (10" 13 pt)
- Bad Axe 16" xcut and 18" rip tenon saws
- Atkins coping saw
-- EDGE TOOLS --
- Various chisels (1-1/4" Swan I bought from T. Seo was indispensable)
- Various bench planes, incl. Stanley #3 & #6 (for shooting), LN #8
- No-name infill plane and Atkins #5 scraper for the bubinga
- LN 60-1/2 block plane for trimming the frame to fit the box
-- STUFF I MADE --
- Mitre jack
- Thin joinery floats
- New winding sticks
- New workbench
And probably others I forgot :). This was my first project on the new
multi-split-top bench with no face vise, but I'm getting used to it.
regards,
Adam, spinning Paul Stookey at 33-1/3 in Port Angeles, WA
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