OldTools Archive
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141693 | "Joe West" <joewest64@h...> | 2005‑02‑07 | Scraper Help Needed |
Hi I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms. I would like to use a machinist carbide insert for the business end and make a handle. I can't figure out the labeling system on the inserts (ex: SPG422). Also, I don't know what grade of carbide to get for cast iron. Does anyone know what would be a good size, shape, and edge treatment for the insert? Any ideas on how to make a handle? Finally is Dykem "Hi Spot" the ink I need for my Far East granite plate? Thanks in advance for any help you can give. Joe West _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ______________________________________________________________ |
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141702 | Michael Campbell <michael.campbell@g...> | 2005‑02‑07 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non drying (for practical purposes). I'd say it'll certainly work. Bugbear and/or Jeff Gorman are well versed in this stuff, so if they disagree with me there, listen the them! On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:37:44 -0500, Joe West |
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141704 | "Arthur Bailey" <curiousart@e...> | 2005‑02‑07 | RE: Scraper Help Needed |
Joe says: > Hi > I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms. Here's a link to my description of what I hacked together. http://nika.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu:8080/~cswingle/archive/get.phtml?message_i d=138970#message > Finally is Dykem "Hi Spot" the ink I need for my Far East granite plate? I bought the water soluble stuff after walking around for a few weeks with blue fingers- it's just too much trouble to explain to other people. You can find it on the Dapra page, along with the scraper inserts. I don't know if it's better, worse or the same as the hi spot stuff. Art Bailey Astoria, NY ______________________________________________________________ |
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141710 | paul womack <pwomack@p...> | 2005‑02‑08 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Joe West wrote: > Hi > I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms. I would like to > use a machinist carbide insert for the business end and make a handle. > I can't figure out the labeling system on the inserts (ex: SPG422). > Also, I don't know what grade of carbide to get for cast iron. Does > anyone know what would be a good size, shape, and edge treatment for the > insert? Any ideas on how to make a handle? Scraping is slow, but surface plates and "blue" are good. > > Finally is Dykem "Hi Spot" the ink I need for my Far East granite plate? Certainly is. Cheap, but (I'm told) sometimes hard to find. > > Thanks in advance for any help you can give. http://www.geocities.com/plybench/flatten.html You're welcome :-) BugBear ______________________________________________________________ |
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141712 | paul womack <pwomack@p...> | 2005‑02‑08 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Michael Campbell wrote: > Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non drying (for > practical purposes). I'd say it'll certainly work. > > Bugbear and/or Jeff Gorman are well versed in this stuff, so if they > disagree with me there, listen the them! I'd add Roger Nixon to that list, although due to some ISP trouble, his pages are not available at the moment. BugBear ______________________________________________________________ |
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141738 | "Bill Rittner" <wcrittner@c...> | 2005‑02‑08 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Bugbear said - > Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non drying (for > practical purposes). I'd say it'll certainly work. Dykem High Spot Blue is just prussian blue artist oil paint. If you can't find the Dykem try a local art supply store. Bill Rittner R & B ENTERPRISES Manchester, CT "Don't take this life too seriously.......nobody gets out alive!" (unknown) ______________________________________________________________ |
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141752 | "Joe West" <joewest64@h...> | 2005‑02‑08 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
All Thanks to everyone for your help. Joe West >From: "Bill Rittner" |
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141754 | Anatol Polillo <anatol.polillo@v...> | 2005‑02‑08 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
At 05:37 PM 2/7/05 -0500, you wrote: >Hi >I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms. >Joe, I found a handmade scraper at the flea market. It was a polished, short end of a file. It is about 3" long, not including the tang. The teeth had been carefully ground off and the tip and the rest of it brought to a fine and polished point. It is amazingly sharp, and as it is/was a file, it is harder than most plane bodies. If you decide to make one, just be careful not to overheat it while working, otherwise you will have to re-harden and temper. Anatol Now accepting credit cards via PayPal "Classic Plane Making" and more at: http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2nwp6/planes/hollow.html ______________________________________________________________ |
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141784 | Mike Duchaj <michaelj63@c...> | 2005‑02‑09 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Dykem does dry, but is easily dissolved with alcohol. Every galoot has alcohol! Under $10 for a tube. I think the suppliers are dumping the volitile stuff for the "friendly" solvent stuff. You may be able to get a deal from your local industrial supply. Mike paul womack wrote: > Bill Rittner wrote: > >> Bugbear said - > Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I >> recall), non >> drying (for >> > > ______________________________________________________________ |
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141774 | paul womack <pwomack@p...> | 2005‑02‑09 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Bill Rittner wrote: > Bugbear said - > Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non > drying (for > >>practical purposes). I'd say it'll certainly work. > > > Dykem High Spot Blue is just prussian blue artist oil paint. If you can't > find the Dykem try a local art supply store. Nope. Prussian blue oil paint dries hard. It's meant to. Not what's wanted in a spotting compound. Some people have mixed in baby oil to try to slow the paint's hardening time. BugBear ______________________________________________________________ |
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141846 | paul womack <pwomack@p...> | 2005‑02‑10 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Mike Duchaj wrote: > Dykem does dry, but is easily dissolved with alcohol. Every galoot has > alcohol! Under $10 for a tube. I stand corrected. The blue I'm using is (I think) simply prussian blue pigment in (thinnish) grease. It does not (AFAIK & IME) ever dry. It sounds like Dykem is slightly different to the stuff I'm using. I apologise for leading people astray. BugBear ______________________________________________________________ |
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141882 | Kyle Accardi <sandbox@p...> | 2005‑02‑10 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Michael Campbell wrote: > We may all be talking about different stuff. The stuff *I* was > referring to is Dykem Hi-Spot, which, according to their website: > > "DYKEM® Hi-Spot is an intensely blue, soft, uniform paste that spreads > easily and evenly to show high spots on bearings. > > They /also/ make an alcohol based, fast-drying ink. So which one are people using for this application? Back in Jr. High school we used a blue dye that dried so you could scratch a line in it. I thought that's what one would use to flatten a plane bottom. Can't picture the paste, doesn't it just make a mess and smear over the high spots where you don't want it? - Kyle Accardi who is going to be making a lathe real soon, probably ______________________________________________________________ |
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141887 | "Dan Hogan" <dhhogan1@e...> | 2005‑02‑10 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
I think what is needed is Layout Dye used by machinests. I have a pint (lasts a woodworker a LONG time) of Starrett Layout Dye, Cat. No. 1610-16. This is a liquid that you paint on and remove with denatured alcohol. Dan I Use'm, but Don't Abuse'm West Covina, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kyle Accardi" |
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141877 | Michael Campbell <michael.campbell@g...> | 2005‑02‑10 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Bugbear, Mike (et. al.) We may all be talking about different stuff. The stuff *I* was referring to is Dykem Hi-Spot, which, according to their website: "DYKEM=AE Hi-Spot is an intensely blue, soft, uniform paste that spreads easily and evenly to show high spots on bearings. It's most valuable when used on flat bearing surfaces of lathes, planers, milling macines, etc. A thin coating may be left on the surface day in and day out, and will not dry out. The film remains "wet" and "transferable", and in condition for months. No night clean-up or morning rebluing is necessary." They /also/ make an alcohol based, fast-drying ink. On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 09:39:23 +0000, paul womack |
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141888 | "Andy Seaman" <aks21@c...> | 2005‑02‑10 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Esteemed Galoots, There are indeed two types of Dykem blue products. One is a machinists layout dye. This product contains a volatile solvent that dries super fast. The point of this stuff is to coat a piece of metal stock so that it can be marked with layout lines prior to machining/working/forming. Works really well for that purpose too, since when you use it with steel or aluminum you end up with bright, shiny layout lines on a dark blue background. The second Dykem product is called hi-spot blue. It does not dry, at least not very fast. This is the stuff that you want to use in conjunction with a reference surface to show the high spots on your plane soles. Having used this product, I can't distinguish *any* difference between it and prussian blue oil paint. I bought a small tube of prussian blue and thinned it with a little raw linseed oil to achieve a nice thin blueing agent. A tip that was given to me and that I'll pass on is that you can never use too little of this stuff. Try putting down a thin layer of blue on your granite surface plate and then wiping it off with a clean rag. See how the granite is still blue, even though you just wiped it off? That's just the ticket for flattening a plane sole. When you're done and want to clean up your granite use a solvent like alcohol to get rid of most of the blue. Have fun and good luck. -Andy ______________________________________________________________ |
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141928 | Larry Marshall <larry@w...> | 2005‑02‑11 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
> But they all harden in the end, since their prime carrier > is linseed oil, an us woodworkers know that stuff will oxidise > *eventually*, unlike most lubrication greases, which is what > (AFAIK) the engineering high spot products use. > But they all harden in the end, since their prime carrier > is linseed oil, an us woodworkers know that stuff will oxidise There is one type that won't harden. =A0Genesis heat-set oils are a new lin e of oils paints that are set by heat. =A0Without being blasted with 250 degree air from a heat gun, they just never harden. =A0Expensive though. http://www.genesisartistcolors.com/ =2D- Cheers --- Larry Marshall Quebec, Quebec http://www.woodnbits.com ______________________________________________________________ |
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141927 | paul womack <pwomack@p...> | 2005‑02‑11 | Re: Scraper Help Needed |
Andy Seaman wrote: > Esteemed Galoots, > > There are indeed two types of Dykem blue products. One is a machinists > layout dye. This product contains a volatile solvent that dries super > fast. The point of this stuff is to coat a piece of metal stock so > that it can be marked with layout lines prior to > machining/working/forming. Works really well for that purpose too, > since when you use it with steel or aluminum you end up with bright, > shiny layout lines on a dark blue background. > > The second Dykem product is called hi-spot blue. It does not dry, at > least not very fast. This is the stuff that you want to use in > conjunction with a reference surface to show the high spots on your > plane soles. Having used this product, I can't distinguish *any* > difference between it and prussian blue oil paint. I bought a small > tube of prussian blue and thinned it with a little raw linseed oil to > achieve a nice thin blueing agent. A tip that was given to me and that > I'll pass on is that you can never use too little of this stuff. Try > putting down a thin layer of blue on your granite surface plate and > then wiping it off with a clean rag. See how the granite is still > blue, even though you just wiped it off? That's just the ticket for > flattening a plane sole. When you're done and want to clean up your > granite use a solvent like alcohol to get rid of most of the blue. > Have fun and good luck. Excellent Summary. Further on artists oil paints... Some web searching reveals that drying times for artists oil paint varies widely, with pigment, binder, solvent, carrier "dryers" and thickness all affecting. There appears to be consensus (on information retrieved by Google anyway) that no oil paint will be touch dry in much under 2 days, and that 6 months will dry virtually anything. But they all harden in the end, since their prime carrier is linseed oil, an us woodworkers know that stuff will oxidise *eventually*, unlike most lubrication greases, which is what (AFAIK) the engineering high spot products use. More Reading: http://painting.about.com/cs/oils/a/dryingoils.htm http://www.wetcanvas.com/ArtSchool/Oils/DryingTimes/ (my search was "oil paint" "drying time" | "hardening time" days | weeks | months ) BugBear ______________________________________________________________ |
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