Jonathan Peck wrote:

> So can anyone explain the mixing of shellac and the cuts/ratios in
> real simple terms? Do I start with a thin cut and rub on, use pumice
> or a thick cut brushed on and sand down to fill the pores? Any tips
> for dealing with the mill will also be appreciated
>
Jonathan: You've been given a lot of good advice but I didn't notice
anyone answering your direct question re: the cuts. The weight cited (1
pound, 2 pound, 3 pound, etc) refers to the amount (in pounds, eh)
added to a gallon of solvent. I was reluctant at first, so I actually
bought a postage scale and would weigh out the flakes, calculate the
amount of solvent and mix it up. It was more like high school chemistry
than woodworking, but once I got a feel for it, I stored the scale. Now
I just guesstimate. I usually mix by the rule of thumb already given -
in a straight-sided jar (jelly, jam, pickle, olive, etc) I put twice as
much solvent as flakes. I've even gone so far as to put a piece of
masking tape vertically on the jar and marking 1" and 2" spots. Fill to
1" with flakes, 2" with solvent. I've found this mix builds pretty fast
and I can cut it 50/50 with solvent for the initial spit coat. I've
never ground up the flakes but I did recently put the buttonlac
'buttons' in a ziploc bag and bang it on the benchtop until they broke
up into little pieces. I heat mine by sitting the jar on the clothes
dryer (seems like it's always running) and shaking it every time I
think of it. Takes anywhere from a couple days to a week (depending on
how many shakes I give it). One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this
thread but several times in the past: Shellac is a terrific adhesive. I
learned the hard way that my method will also force the mixture into
the threads of the jar's lid and seal it-but good. I wound up with a
he!! of a mess when a jar I was trying to open broke. I now keep a roll
of waxed paper handy. I tear off a piece about twice as long and the
jar's diameter and fold it up in 4ths. I put it over the jar's top
before putting on the lid. Depending on how many times I open & close
the jar, I may replace it before throwing the jar out. Since my shop
time and project completion rate are sporadic, I try to mix only what I
need for a project. I don't bother to try and clean the jar. After I've
finished the project (pun intended) I just leave the jar open until the
shellac dries and then toss it. If I had the need, I guess I could
marry off the small amounts and save it to coat the ends of green
logs(?). An alternate method of filling pores (given to me by Paul
Radovanic) was when I was making the mission dining table. Oak is a
very porous wood and filling it with multiple coats of shellac would
have had me at it 'til the cows came home, so he recommended the
following: Slather it with BLO and then put on a spit coat of ~1# cut
super blonde. Knock down the nibs using a card scraper with a very
light touch. I then put on two applications of Por-O-Pac filler
darkened with some burnt umber, let it cure for a few days and sealed
it with some 2# super blonde. Since I expected it to get some pretty
heavy use, I finished the top with two coats of McCloskeys tabletop
varnish, sanded between coats and rubbed out with 3M synthetic steel
wool using Murphy's Oil soap as the lubricant (a tip from Jeff Jewitt).
Both sides of the top got the same finish but I didn't bother to rub
out the underside. The table base and chairs all received just shellac
(5 or 6 brushed coats). BTW, I'm not good enough to avoid drips and
runs on the edges, so (another tip from Paul Rad) I use my finger to
clean them up. Brush the shellac on a horizontal surface and then run
my finger along the edge/vertical surface to smooth the excess. I still
have an old pair of jeans with a shiny spot on the left thigh ;-) HTH,
YMMV... Charlie Rodgers Clinton, Maryland