G++,

Ted and I talked about the problems we were having...

Bill Webber wrote:
> 
> Hi Ted,
> 
> First let me tell you where I'm at.
> I kinda developed a thing for spoke shaves, thinking long term to maybe
> making a chair or two.  So far I haven't actually made anything and
> about the only thing I've done with any of them is a few practice
> strokes on a straight chunk of old oak.  (I should get a better scrap to
> play with because oak is probably not a wood of choice for anything you
> might take a spoke shave to.
> 
> But...  My experience with the Kelly; I didn't even hone it.  I
> just fooled with the adjustment a little and determined it would take
> nice fine shavings and put it away.  I knew I could hone it and make it
> better at some time in the future if I needed to.
> 
> I got the MF from ebay.  It's pretty nice even though I can only get one
> handle off.  The blade was not in bad shape but it showed evidence of
> someone fooling with it.  I like nice, jig assisted, sharpened blades so
> I set out to redo it.  I made a jig to hold the blade in order to redo
> the primary bevel.  I used the jig and my belt sander to redo the bevel
> and it came out great.  I then used scary sharp to put a micro bevel on
> the outside and flatten the inside.
> 
> After trying to make it work for a while I concluded that maybe the
> micro bevel I had put on it was too steep so I went back to the belt
> sander.  I increased the clearance angle a little more and ground out
> the micro bevel I had put in.  This time I checked the relief angle
> against the Kelly blade and they looked to be about the same.
> 
> The blade was pretty sharp coming off the 220 grit belt sander.  It
> seemed to be similar to the sharpness of the Kelly.  I started swapping
> the blades back and forth.  I determined that both blades worked the
> same in the Kelly body and they both worked poorly in the MF body.
> 
> snip..
> 
> Regards,
> --
> Bill W.
> Woodworkers visit me at:
> http://Highland_House.tripod.com
> 
> > Hi Bill -
> > 
> >         My history with cigar shaves: I needed to smooth some tight inside
> > curves, and sprung some pretty big bucks for a MF #1 in good shape. It
> > also has the flat filed into the body (although only on one side).
> 
> Like
> > you, I got it good and sharp, but couldn't get it to work. I
> > subsequently bought a Kelly shave -- which I also haven't been able to
> > get working, at least not in the sense of a conventional shave, with
> > precise, controlled shavings. Best I've managed is a kind of
> > semi-controlled carving.
>
> 
> >  With blade positioned over the body, the mouth is something in the
> > one-thirty-second-inch range -- far too big for a controlled cut.
> 
> With
> > it set over thin air, and rotating the tool so the edge just grazes the
> > work, I can get that semi-carving effect. Since tight inside curves
> > inevitably involve end-grain, I'm always working in end-grain, and I
> > wouldn't describe what's happening as shaving. Am I missing something
> > you've discovered, or is this just as good as it gets?
> >   snip
> 
>   Ted
> >
> > Bill Webber wrote:
> > >
> > > G++,
> > >
> > > snip
-- 
Bill W.
Woodworkers visit me at:
http://Highland_House.tripod.com