OldTools Archive
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247347 | Kevin Bock <nashbok@y...> | 2014‑04‑22 | Rust Removal |
I recently traded one of my gold fillings for an old Stanley 45 that has about 85% of the nickel plating intact. By the looks of it it's spent the last few decades on the shelf collecting dust and rust. My question is, do any of you gentelman know of a way to clean up the rust spots without removing or damaging too much of the remaining nickel finish? Not expecting a miracle -- I went it over it with some steel wool and WD-40 but that's about it. Thanks all, Kevin |
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247349 | "Adam R. Maxwell" <amaxwell@m...> | 2014‑04‑22 | Re: Rust Removal |
On Apr 21, 2014, at 20:14 , Kevin Bock |
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247350 | Phil Schempf <philschempf@g...> | 2014‑04‑22 | Re: Rust Removal |
I'll be interested in this as well, Adam. I have a Yankee brace that needs some TLC and I'd like to preserve the plating that remains, but had resigned myself to just polishing the steel. Phil |
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247351 | "Peter Evans" <peterrevans@o...> | 2014‑04‑22 | RE: Rust Removal |
Citric acid (short term dipping, e.g. 30 minutes, check every 10 minutes), will not take off nickel - unless there is rust underneath the plating. Cheers Peter Peter Evans Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: oldtools-bounces@r... [mailto :oldtools-bounces@r...] On Behalf Of Phil Schempf Sent: Tuesday, 22 April 2014 2:24 PM To: Adam R. Maxwell Cc: oldtools porch Subject: Re: [OldTools] Rust Removal I'll be interested in this as well, Adam. I have a Yankee brace that needs some TLC and I'd like to preserve the plating that remains, but had resigned myself to just polishing the steel. Phil |
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247352 | Rstrainsr@a... | 2014‑04‑22 | Re: Rust Removal |
Hi Adam Depending on how bad those rust spots are will dictate how aggressive you are. My first step on tools such as planes is to disassemble and bathe the parts in very hot water (wood parts are excused from this process). Soap and vegetable/nail brush as well as toothbrushes, bottle brushes etc for those hard to get at spots. Many years of dust, grime etc can be removed this way as well as surface rust. The parts after a toweling will continue to dry in areas you haven't been able to reach simply by the heat accumulated thru the hot water. Now you could throw this stuff in the oven and use low heat to dissipate the moisture... probably while SWMBO is out shopping or something ;>) I keep a designated oil rag to wipe down the parts, a toothbrush dabbed with small amounts of oil to get in tight spots, threads etc (I use any motor oil that's handy but if you have other preferences...sokay) This does not eliminate rust spots...just cleans em up, makes em look better and retards their growth. Regards Bob in Ohio who is still "thinking" Spring! In a message dated 4/22/2014 12:06:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, amaxwell@m... writes: On Apr 21, 2014, at 20:14 , Kevin Bock |
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247367 | "nashbok@y..." <nashbok@y...> | 2014‑04‑23 | Re: RE: Rust Removal |
Think I'm gonna give that a try. Is the result any different than naval jelly? As in, is there any black residue? Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android |
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247368 | "Peter Evans" <peterrevans@o...> | 2014‑04‑23 | RE: RE: Rust Removal |
See below Cheers Peter From: nashbok@y... [mailto:nashbok@y...] Think I'm gonna give that a try. Is the result any different than naval jelly? As in, is there any black residue? Yes, there is a residue to be removed, that is the converted rust. Short (10-15 minutes, as many times as it takes, cleaning off the residue each time) dipping in hot solution, around 10% avoids the residue bonding to the steel. _____ From: Peter Evans |
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247380 | Bruce Zenge <brucensherry@g...> | 2014‑04‑23 | Re: Rust Removal |
GG's FWIW, I would not use WD40 on anything plated as it does have a habit of getting under the plating and loosening it, thus facilitating plating removal. A friend told me of this with nickel plated firearms many years ago. Personally, I have used skotch brite pads very gently to remove light rust, but usually just wiping down with a soft cloth moistened with light oil. Of course, I don't mind a little patina on my tools, it will wear off, If I'm using them..... Just my opinion, of course. Bruce Z. Des Moines, IA >> I recently traded one of my gold fillings for an old Stanley 45 that has about 85% of the nickel plating intact. By the looks of it it's spent the last few decades on the shelf collecting dust and rust. My question is, do any of you gentelman know of a way to clean up the rust spots without removing or damaging too much of the remaining nickel finish? Not expecting a miracle -- I went it over it with some steel wool and WD-40 but that's about it. |
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247389 | "Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq" <rohrabacher@e...> | 2014‑04‑24 | Re: Rust Removal |
Have you considered that you might re-plate it? Google: Nickel Plating On 4/21/2014 11:14 PM, Kevin Bock wrote: > I recently traded one of my gold fillings for an old Stanley 45 that has about 85% of the nickel plating intact. By the looks of it it's spent the last few decades on the shelf collecting dust and rust. My question is, do any of you gentelman know of a way to clean up the rust spots without removing or damaging too much of the remaining nickel finish? Not expecting a miracle -- I went it over it with some steel wool and WD-40 but that's about it. > > Thanks all, > Kevin > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool > aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage, > value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of > traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools. > > To change your subscription options: > http://rucku s.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools > > To read the FAQ: > http://swingleydev.com/archi ve/faq.html > > OldTools archive: http://swingleydev.com/archive/">http://swingleydev.com/archive/ > > OldTools@r... > http://rucku s.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools > |
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247405 | pdoubek@x... | 2014‑04‑24 | Re: Rust Removal |
I'm a fan of using electrolysis for rust removal, followed by a light Scotch Brite pad, brass brush, or tooth brush clean up. It won't deal with heavy rust, and it leaves a dark patina wherever it removes surface rust. It won't damage plating or japanning that's sitting on clean iron, but if there's rust underneath the plating/finish it will cause it to flake. The one hassle with electrolysis on #45/#55 planes is that you can't easily remove the wooden handles, so you have to submerse the metal and leave the wood out of the solution. There are a number of articles and instructables on this process, but since I don't have any experience with the ones I'm finding I opted not to link them. Search fro 2 or 3... the process is simple. The details I'd recommend are: Pay careful attention to the power supply polarity- negative goes to your rusty tool Use washing soda or it's equivalent to make the electrolyte. Not baking soda, not salt (which I've seen recommended) Use a stainless steel plate or bolt as your anode. You can use most iron/steel, and the first article I read suggested iron rebar. Ferrous metals break down and make a nasty mess whereas with stainless I only end up with rust particles in my electrolyte. I bought a stainless sheet from the local hardware chain, and I wrap that with plastic screening. It provides a lot of surface area and the screen reduces the risk of shorting the tool to the anode. Good luck, Paul >> I recently traded one of my gold fillings for an old Stanley 45 that has about 85% of the nickel plating intact. By the looks of it it's spent the last few decades on the shelf collecting dust and rust. My question is, do any of you gentelman know of a way to clean up the rust spots without removing or damaging too much of the remaining nickel finish? Not expecting a miracle -- I went it over it with some steel wool and WD-40 but that's about it. |
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247407 | Bob Miller <bobprime@b...> | 2014‑04‑24 | Re: Re: Rust Removal |
On Thu, Apr 24, 2014 at 1:20 PM, |
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247413 | Brent Beach <brent.beach@g...> | 2014‑04‑24 | Re: Re: Rust Removal |
Wow! On 2014-04-24 11:41, Bob Miller wrote: > Using stainless steel for the anode will fill your water with hexavalent > chromium compounds which are both quite bad for you and persistent in the > environment. Only people with a spare hour or two should start hunting around on this topic. Yep, I just did. After reading several pages and discovering that people actually use electrolysis to produce hydrogen which they then add to the input air stream to their cars, I found this page http://use rs.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsaeta/electrolysis.html Look for hexa. Not much evidence but what there is appears to suggest that at voltages we use there is no problem. Personally I use baby oil and fine abrasives on hard blocks for most things, but do occasionally use the electrolysis tank. Don't use acids, even mild acids. Not sure why, just never have. Brent -- Brent Beach Victoria, BC, Canada |
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247415 | pdoubek@x... | 2014‑04‑24 | Re: Re: Rust Removal |
Thanks for sharing that Bob... I'm at work so I can't spend a significant time doing research, but curiosity caused me to skim your links and look up a few more. Don't think I'm being contrary; I have a very superficial knowledge of the electrolysis process and I appreciate the warning. I hope I'm not advocating something dangerous. The only things I'm finding regarding release of hexavalent chromium relate to grinding stainless into dust and during heating such as welding. Do you have something that would give me an idea of the risk and quantity of hexavalent chromium that is likely released in for a given time and volume of stainless steel? I'd like to be able to assess the scope of the problem. I suspect the same problem occurs with stainless hardware/fittings on my sail boat in the Great Salt Lake. I generally reuse my electrolyte for a couple of years before I dump it. Going forward I guess I should, at the very least, treat it as toxic waste and take it to the landfill's hazardous waste facility along with waste from cleaning up finishing tools and changing automotive fluids. I will also consider changing my anode to a more benign material... more research to do. I guess this is a good segue into other safety issues. Other byproducts of electrolysis include hydrogen gas. In sufficient quantities in an enclosed space, this could be highly explosive. For the time periods and frequency that I derust tools I figure this is a minimal risk. As Bob says... I'm sure there are other nasties that are released depending on the tool you're derusting and the chemical used to create the electrolyte. Paul Quoting Bob Miller |
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