Hi
I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms.  I would like to use 
a machinist carbide insert for the business end and make a handle.  I can't 
figure out the labeling system on the inserts (ex: SPG422).  Also, I don't 
know what grade of carbide to get for cast iron.  Does anyone know what 
would be a good size, shape, and edge treatment for the insert?  Any ideas 
on how to make a handle?

Finally is Dykem "Hi Spot" the ink I need for my Far East granite plate?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

Joe West

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Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non drying (for
practical purposes).  I'd say it'll certainly work.

Bugbear and/or Jeff Gorman are well versed in this stuff, so if they
disagree with me there, listen the them!

On Mon, 07 Feb 2005 17:37:44 -0500, Joe West  wrote:
> Hi
> I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms.  I would like to use
> a machinist carbide insert for the business end and make a handle.  I can't
> figure out the labeling system on the inserts (ex: SPG422).  Also, I don't
> know what grade of carbide to get for cast iron.  Does anyone know what
> would be a good size, shape, and edge treatment for the insert?  Any ideas
> on how to make a handle?
> 
> Finally is Dykem "Hi Spot" the ink I need for my Far East granite plate?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

______________________________________________________________

Joe says:
> Hi
> I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms. 
Here's a link to my description of what I hacked together.
http://nika.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu:8080/~cswingle/archive/get.phtml?message_i
d=138970#message

> Finally is Dykem "Hi Spot" the ink I need for my Far East granite plate?
I bought the water soluble stuff after walking around for a few weeks with
blue fingers- it's just too much trouble to explain to other people. You
can find it on the Dapra page, along with the scraper inserts. I don't know
if it's better, worse or the same as the hi spot stuff.

Art Bailey
Astoria, NY

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Joe West wrote:
> Hi
> I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms.  I would like to 
> use a machinist carbide insert for the business end and make a handle.  
> I can't figure out the labeling system on the inserts (ex: SPG422).  
> Also, I don't know what grade of carbide to get for cast iron.  Does 
> anyone know what would be a good size, shape, and edge treatment for the 
> insert?  Any ideas on how to make a handle?

Scraping is slow, but surface plates and "blue" are good.

> 
> Finally is Dykem "Hi Spot" the ink I need for my Far East granite plate?

Certainly is. Cheap, but (I'm told) sometimes hard to find.

> 
> Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/flatten.html

You're welcome :-)

    BugBear

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Michael Campbell wrote:
> Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non drying (for
> practical purposes).  I'd say it'll certainly work.
> 
> Bugbear and/or Jeff Gorman are well versed in this stuff, so if they
> disagree with me there, listen the them!

I'd add Roger Nixon to that list, although due to some ISP
trouble, his pages are not available at the moment.

    BugBear

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Bugbear said - > Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non
drying (for
> practical purposes).  I'd say it'll certainly work.

Dykem High Spot Blue is just prussian blue artist oil paint. If you can't
find the Dykem try a local art supply store.

Bill Rittner
R & B ENTERPRISES
Manchester, CT

"Don't take this life too seriously.......nobody gets out alive!" (unknown)

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All
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Joe West

>From: "Bill Rittner" 
>Reply-To: "Bill Rittner" 
>To: "oldtools" 
>CC: "oldtools" 
>Subject: Re: [oldtools] Scraper Help Needed
>Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 14:53:27 -0800
>
>Bugbear said - > Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non
>drying (for
> > practical purposes).  I'd say it'll certainly work.
>
>Dykem High Spot Blue is just prussian blue artist oil paint. If you can't
>find the Dykem try a local art supply store.
>
>Bill Rittner
>R & B ENTERPRISES
>Manchester, CT
>
>"Don't take this life too seriously.......nobody gets out alive!" (unknown)
>
>
>
>______________________________________________________________
>Archive: http://www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswingle/archive/
>
>To unsubscribe or change options, use the web interface:
>     http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/oldtools.html

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At 05:37 PM 2/7/05 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi
>I want to make a scraper for flattening plane bottoms.

>Joe,

         I found a handmade scraper at the flea market.  It was a polished, 
short end of a file.  It is about 3" long, not including the tang.  The 
teeth had been carefully ground off and the tip and the rest of it brought 
to a fine and polished point.  It is amazingly sharp, and as it is/was a 
file, it is harder than most plane bodies.  If you decide to make one, just 
be careful not to overheat it while working, otherwise you will have to 
re-harden and temper.

                 Anatol

Now accepting credit cards via PayPal
"Classic Plane Making" and more at:

  http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze2nwp6/planes/hollow.html 

______________________________________________________________

Dykem does dry, but is easily dissolved with alcohol. Every galoot has 
alcohol! Under $10 for a tube.

I think the suppliers are dumping the volitile stuff for the "friendly" 
solvent stuff. You may be able to get a deal from your local industrial 
supply.

Mike
paul womack wrote:

> Bill Rittner wrote:
>
>> Bugbear said - > Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I 
>> recall), non
>> drying (for
>>
>
>

______________________________________________________________

Bill Rittner wrote:
> Bugbear said - > Dykem is easy to get, inexpensive and (last I recall), non
> drying (for
> 
>>practical purposes).  I'd say it'll certainly work.
> 
> 
> Dykem High Spot Blue is just prussian blue artist oil paint. If you can't
> find the Dykem try a local art supply store.

Nope. Prussian blue oil paint dries hard. It's meant to. Not
what's wanted in a spotting compound.

Some people have mixed in baby oil to try to slow
the paint's hardening time.

    BugBear

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Mike Duchaj wrote:
> Dykem does dry, but is easily dissolved with alcohol. Every galoot has 
> alcohol! Under $10 for a tube.

I stand corrected. The blue I'm using is (I think) simply prussian blue 
pigment in (thinnish) grease. It does not (AFAIK & IME) ever dry.

It sounds like Dykem is slightly different to the stuff I'm using.
I apologise for leading people astray.

    BugBear

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Michael Campbell wrote:
> We may all be talking about different stuff.  The stuff *I* was
> referring to is Dykem Hi-Spot, which, according to their website:
> 
> "DYKEM® Hi-Spot is an intensely blue, soft, uniform paste that spreads
> easily and evenly to show high spots on bearings. 
> 
> They /also/ make an alcohol based, fast-drying ink.

So which one are people using for this application?  Back in Jr. High school 
we used a blue dye that dried so you could scratch a line in it.  I thought 
that's what one would use to flatten a plane bottom.  Can't picture the 
paste, doesn't it just make a mess and smear over the high spots where you 
don't want it?

-
Kyle Accardi
who is going to be making a lathe real soon, probably

______________________________________________________________

I think what is needed is Layout Dye used by machinests. I have a pint 
(lasts a woodworker a LONG time) of Starrett
Layout Dye, Cat. No. 1610-16. This is a liquid that you paint on and remove 
with denatured alcohol.

Dan
I Use'm, but Don't Abuse'm
West Covina, CA

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kyle Accardi" 
To: "oldtools" 
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2005 10:16 AM
Subject: Re: [oldtools] Scraper Help Needed

> Michael Campbell wrote:
>> We may all be talking about different stuff.  The stuff *I* was
>> referring to is Dykem Hi-Spot, which, according to their website:
>>
>> "DYKEM® Hi-Spot is an intensely blue, soft, uniform paste that spreads
>> easily and evenly to show high spots on bearings. They /also/ make an 
>> alcohol based, fast-drying ink.

______________________________________________________________

Bugbear, Mike (et. al.) 

We may all be talking about different stuff.  The stuff *I* was
referring to is Dykem Hi-Spot, which, according to their website:

"DYKEM=AE Hi-Spot is an intensely blue, soft, uniform paste that spreads
easily and evenly to show high spots on bearings. It's most valuable
when used on flat bearing surfaces of lathes, planers, milling
macines, etc. A thin coating may be left on the surface day in and day
out, and will not dry out. The film remains "wet" and "transferable",
and in condition for months. No night clean-up or morning rebluing is
necessary."

They /also/ make an alcohol based, fast-drying ink.

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 09:39:23 +0000, paul womack  w 
rote:
> Mike Duchaj wrote:
> > Dykem does dry, but is easily dissolved with alcohol. Every galoot has
> > alcohol! Under $10 for a tube.
> 
> I stand corrected. The blue I'm using is (I think) simply prussian blue
> pigment in (thinnish) grease. It does not (AFAIK & IME) ever dry.
> 
> It sounds like Dykem is slightly different to the stuff I'm using.
> I apologise for leading people astray.
> 
>     BugBear
> 
> ______________________________________________________________
> Archive: http://www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswingle/archive/
> 
> To unsubscribe or change options, use the web interface:
>     http://www.brendlers.net/oldtools/oldtools.html
>

______________________________________________________________

Esteemed Galoots,

There are indeed two types of Dykem blue products. One is a machinists
layout dye. This product contains a volatile solvent that dries super
fast. The point of this stuff is to coat a piece of metal stock so that
it can be marked with layout lines prior to machining/working/forming.
Works really well for that purpose too, since when you use it with steel
or aluminum you end up with bright, shiny layout lines on a dark blue
background.

The second Dykem product is called hi-spot blue. It does not dry, at
least not very fast. This is the stuff that you want to use in
conjunction with a reference surface to show the high spots on your
plane soles. Having used this product, I can't distinguish *any*
difference between it and prussian blue oil paint. I bought a small tube
of prussian blue and thinned it with a little raw linseed oil to achieve
a nice thin blueing agent. A tip that was given to me and that I'll pass
on is that you can never use too little of this stuff. Try putting down
a thin layer of blue on your granite surface plate and then wiping it
off with a clean rag. See how the granite is still blue, even though you
just wiped it off? That's just the ticket for flattening a plane sole.
When you're done and want to clean up your granite use a solvent like
alcohol to get rid of most of the blue. Have fun and good luck.

-Andy
______________________________________________________________

> But they all harden in the end, since their prime carrier
> is linseed oil, an us woodworkers know that stuff will oxidise
> *eventually*, unlike most lubrication greases, which is what
> (AFAIK) the engineering high spot products use.
> But they all harden in the end, since their prime carrier
> is linseed oil, an us woodworkers know that stuff will oxidise

There is one type that won't harden. =A0Genesis heat-set oils are a new lin 
e of 
oils paints that are set by heat. =A0Without being blasted with 250 degree  
air 
from a heat gun, they just never harden. =A0Expensive though.

http://www.genesisartistcolors.com/

=2D- 

Cheers --- Larry Marshall 
Quebec, Quebec
http://www.woodnbits.com

______________________________________________________________

Andy Seaman wrote:
> Esteemed Galoots,
>
> There are indeed two types of Dykem blue products. One is a machinists
> layout dye. This product contains a volatile solvent that dries super
> fast. The point of this stuff is to coat a piece of metal stock so
> that it can be marked with layout lines prior to
> machining/working/forming. Works really well for that purpose too,
> since when you use it with steel or aluminum you end up with bright,
> shiny layout lines on a dark blue background.
>
> The second Dykem product is called hi-spot blue. It does not dry, at
> least not very fast. This is the stuff that you want to use in
> conjunction with a reference surface to show the high spots on your
> plane soles. Having used this product, I can't distinguish *any*
> difference between it and prussian blue oil paint. I bought a small
> tube of prussian blue and thinned it with a little raw linseed oil to
> achieve a nice thin blueing agent. A tip that was given to me and that
> I'll pass on is that you can never use too little of this stuff. Try
> putting down a thin layer of blue on your granite surface plate and
> then wiping it off with a clean rag. See how the granite is still
> blue, even though you just wiped it off? That's just the ticket for
> flattening a plane sole. When you're done and want to clean up your
> granite use a solvent like alcohol to get rid of most of the blue.
> Have fun and good luck.

Excellent Summary.

Further on artists oil paints...

Some web searching reveals that drying times for artists oil paint
varies widely, with pigment, binder, solvent, carrier "dryers" and
thickness all affecting.

There appears to be consensus (on information retrieved by Google
anyway) that no oil paint will be touch dry in much under 2 days, and
that 6 months will dry virtually anything.

But they all harden in the end, since their prime carrier is linseed
oil, an us woodworkers know that stuff will oxidise *eventually*, unlike
most lubrication greases, which is what (AFAIK) the engineering high
spot products use.

More Reading: http://painting.about.com/cs/oils/a/dryingoils.htm
http://www.wetcanvas.com/ArtSchool/Oils/DryingTimes/

(my search was "oil paint" "drying time" | "hardening time" days | weeks
| months )

    BugBear

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