I've used scary sharp for various purposes
(except flattening plane soles :-) for the last
few years.

It's served me well. Because I'm lazy,
I've simply glued some #400 paper to glass,
and I lay the other grits on this.
This means I can work through a large
range of grits without reglueing,
and I only need a small glass area.

I *know* that I get slight edge dubbing,
but even on paring chisels, it's tolerable.

Side to side edge dubbing when flattening
is not a big issue.

But I always had trouble with card scrapers.

It only recently occurred to me that 1/64" of dubbing
on both sides of a 1/32" sheet of steel might
be "an issue".

So I re-filed the edge of a home-brew "made from a saw"
scraper, and worked it on oil stones (India fine,
followed by slate finishing stone).

OK. Epiphany. Instant wide, curly shavings.

Summary: scary sharp is great, but not for scraper prep.

    BugBear
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Paul,
You are doing essential what I do except I use Shapton water stones. I 
like to have my scrapers beveled to a 45 degree angle not square. I 
quasi flatten the back and use a block of wood with a 45 degree angle 
side to hold the scraper when honing. You have to hone at an angle going 
straight along the length of the stone digs a ditch in it. I go to 
perhaps 5000 grit removing the burr from the 1000 and 2000 stones. You 
didn't mention burnishing.  I gently burnish. Thus treated scrapers are 
very sharp, I have cut myself, and cut a nice polished surface. I should 
mention I bevel using the Lee Valley Saw/Scraper Jointer.
Ken
on vacation and ready for a pint.

paul womack wrote:

> I've used scary sharp for various purposes
> (except flattening plane soles :-) for the last
> few years.
>
> It's served me well. Because I'm lazy,
> I've simply glued some #400 paper to glass,
> and I lay the other grits on this.
> This means I can work through a large
> range of grits without reglueing,
> and I only need a small glass area.
>
> I *know* that I get slight edge dubbing,
> but even on paring chisels, it's tolerable.
>
> Side to side edge dubbing when flattening
> is not a big issue.
>
> But I always had trouble with card scrapers.
>
> It only recently occurred to me that 1/64" of dubbing
> on both sides of a 1/32" sheet of steel might
> be "an issue".
>
> So I re-filed the edge of a home-brew "made from a saw"
> scraper, and worked it on oil stones (India fine,
> followed by slate finishing stone).
>
> OK. Epiphany. Instant wide, curly shavings.
>
> Summary: scary sharp is great, but not for scraper prep.
>
>    BugBear
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------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ken Pendergrass wrote:
> Paul,
> You are doing essentially what I do except I use Shapton water stones. 

Indeed. I suspect people whose "normal" sharpening
is oil or water stones would not even be aware
of this very specific scarping related difficulty
with scary sharp.

Why would they? I will continue to use scary sharp
for almost everything, since it has some properties
I find helpful - but not for scrapers.

 > I like to have my scrapers beveled to a 45 degree angle not square. I
> quasi flatten the back and use a block of wood with a 45 degree angle 
> side to hold the scraper when honing. You have to hone at an angle going 
> straight along the length of the stone digs a ditch in it. I go to 
> perhaps 5000 grit removing the burr from the 1000 and 2000 stones. You 
> didn't mention burnishing.  I gently burnish. Thus treated scrapers are 
> very sharp, I have cut myself, and cut a nice polished surface. I should 
> mention I bevel using the Lee Valley Saw/Scraper Jointer.

Alway willing to listen to scraper prep advice from luthiers :-)

    BugBear
------------------------------------------------------------------------