Hi Chris:
    Even WRT the low, low prices on your FS, I'm surprised to hear
you're giving away the Stanley 199s (clamshell utility knives,
Jeff)---I have four or five of them, one in the toolbelt, one in a
sheath in my coveralls, and several others floating around...I never
had one let me down, except when I couldn't find it.
  I haven't yet found a really good retractable utility knife---you
never know when the blade's gonna suddenly retract, the blade doesn't
stick out far enough, the snap-off blades snap off at the wrong time;
it's always something.
 But the 199, blade sticking out extra far and never rattling, pretty
much unbreakable and almost as solid as a REAL knife, now that's a
smoke!  And yes, they look cool.   
  Now when is someone gonna start making REALLY GOOD utility knife
blades? Rev?
  
                           best to all; GAM

> Free with purchase -- Stanley #199 utility razor knife. Blade
> doesn't
> retract, but they look cool. I got two of 'em to give away.

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com

Standard terms -- upon reciept, send me the cost of the item(s) plus
shipping costs, or return the tool if you're not happy with it. I
ship UPS Ground unless you request a different mode or if you give me
a P.O. box to ship to. Buy lots & save on shipping. If they'll accept
packages for you at work, UPS shipping's cheaper when delivering to a
business address. Personal checks from U.S. banks accepted. 

Saws:
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/disston7.JPG
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/disston7-back.JPG
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/disston7-handles.JPG

Disston #7. Some very fine pitting over 25% of the blade, more cosmetic
than anything. Handle's nice, a little typical wear & some chipping on
bottom horn. There's lots of blade left -- 2-1/4 at toe, 6-1/2 at heel.
26" long crosscut, sharpened 4-1/2 point rip though the handle's
definitely not a No. 7 rip's. Nib's there, as is a faint etch. Just 
needs sharpening touch-up - turn it into a crosscut and put it to work
cutting 2x4s all day long... Pictured at top/left. $9

Disston #7. Dark patina, partial etch, nib missing. Badly needs
retoothing. Late type sunken medallion. The spots you see in the photo
is not rust, it's some tenacious crud that scrapes away with great
difficulty. Blade is straight, 2-1/4 at toe, 6-1/2 at heel. 26" lg.
7 point (more or less) crosscut (more or less.) Needs work, but there's
a lot of blade to work with. A splootch of pitting on each side, nothing
major. Handle's decent, just a little chipping on top horn. Pictured
at center. $6

Disston #7 panel saw. Handle is a replacement (mahogany?) but it's
comfortable and looks okay. Nib and faint-but-visible 
etch. 1-3/4 at toe, 5-1/4 at heel, 21-1/2 long. 8 pt. crosscut, needs
sharpening. You may want to re-form the teeth to make them a little more
even, but it's not too horrible. Very slight bend in blade, but 
straight enough to cut with. No medallion. Pictured at bottom/right.
$5

Handles & medallions, $1 each. 
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/junksaws.JPG
At top is an HS&B "OVB" 18" panel saw you might actually be able to put
to use. At center,  a sunken Disston & Sons medallion. At bottom, a very
worn Pease medallion that on the back side looks like it's missing its
screw shaft, though its split nut is still stuck to the handle. Also
two other complete screw & nut assemblies and one screw with no nut. With
luck you might get three complete screw & split nut assemblies outta this.

Pile of chisels needing handles & TLC, $12
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/chisels.JPG
Top to bottom:
* A laminated PS&W mortise chisel with badly mushroomed socket, a slight
bend, and a shallow grinding wheel depression near the tip. 3/8 wide,
almost 8" blade length, 10.5 OAL. I almost cried when I found this one...
* 1/8" wide "Clean Clipper" chisel, 6-1/2 blade, 9" OAL. 
* 1/4" wide bevel-edge "Lakeside" chisel, 6" blade, 8-3/8 OAL. (Anyone
know anything about Lakeside & Clean Clipper brands?? Just curious...)
* 1/2" Witherby, looks grungy but doesn't appear pitted. 4-1/2 lg, 7" OAL.
* Stanley 750 3/8" bevel-edge chisel, 3-1/2 lg., 5" OAL. You might find
some pits when you clean up the back on this one. Some rust on the other
surfaces as well.
* Pritzlaff 1" bevel edge, 3" lg., 5-1/2" OAL. Pretty clean, but the back
needs flattening.
* Jernbolaget 1-3/16" (30 mm) bevel-edge chisel. Weren't we just talking
about these? The back shouldn't present any problems after flattening.
Rust splootch on the upper surface. 
* a 1-1/2" framing chisel, very rusty back - Hope ya gotta belt sander. A
Fulton.
Kind of a crappy picture, but you can see the backs here:
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/chisels-back.JPG
I'll consider splitting these up if there's no interest in the whole
package.

Drawknife. 
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/drawknife.jpg
Like most of these we run across it's been whacked with a claw hammer 10
or
20 times by someone who felt like splittin' wood, but the edge is okay on
this one. Apart from the abuse it doesn't look like it was used much. 10
inch, made by Dunlap. $12. At this price, go ahead, you too can pretend
it's a froe.

Misc.:
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/june-misc.JPG

Handle, #12 panel saw, with nuts and sunken 'Sons' medallion. Handle is
worn, has (probably gluable) break, chip off of top horn. $3

Spiral screwdriver. Millers Falls' version of the Yankee, model 610A. One
straight bit included. Toolbox wear, but works fine. Might need a little
oiling. $8

Aluminum folding rule, 6 ft., Lufkin 1206. Two of the joints kinda wiggly
but otherwise okay. Handy. $2

Brace, Pexto 10", No. 5310. Not quite as beefy as their "Samson" models
but
a nice rugged brace nonetheless. Ratchet works, nothing wrong with the
chuck. Just needs a little oil. A little chrome missing. $6

Buck Rogers-ish push drill, Craftsman. Includes 5 of the 8 straight flute
bits. Yankee push drill bits fit just fine in this one. A little toolbox
wear but still a very pretty tool...$5

Regular ol' found-under-every-rock Yankee push drill, but this one's
marked "Speedy". Looks and works fine. Six bits included. $2

Wing dividers, Pexto, 12". Needs a proper thumbscrew. $3

Miter box, Stanley #50-1/2. Saw not included. Needs slab of wood.
Kind of a bare bones model, but probably built better than anything
you can buy off the shelf at the borg... According to my catalog
reprint the saw guides are designed to be used with either a miter
box saw or a panel saw. Locks *precisely* with no play in the common
positions; can be fixed in intermediate positions but there's no built-
in gradations. $8
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/50miter.JPG

Miter box, Stanley 150. Smaller capacity than previous. Not missing
any parts, clean condition. Supply your own saw. $10. 
http://home.wi.rr.com/kmotto2002/chris/pictures/105miter.JPG

Free with purchase -- Stanley #199 utility razor knife. Blade doesn't
retract, but they look cool. I got two of 'em to give away.

gary may wrote:
.
.
.

>   Now when is someone gonna start making REALLY GOOD utility knife
> blades? Rev?

I don't know, but I made a version of LV's small blade holder
so I jig-sharpen mine up to 2500 grit. They cut REAL
nice when you do that.

       BugBear (who keeps another utility knife for rough work)

Hi Ed:
  I love those little red "Defiance" knives, too, and if I'm not
mistaken, they precede the Stanley 199.  The Defiance is just as good
as the Stanley, except far heavier---cast iron vs. cast aluminum. 
(Aluminium, royal subjects) 
   When you've got a belt full of tools, you wanta choose the
lightest ones---carry a twelve foot tape; you practically never need
25', sixteen ounce hammer's usually big enough, if you're cutting all
90s on a framing job, carry the try square instead of the
combo---like that.
  I have a tin-lined leather sheath in the knife pocket of my
Carhartts, and an identical sheath pop-riveted to my toolbelt, so I
don't have to worry about protection from the blade---I've never been
very good at keeping track of the little guard.  IINM, the new 199's
come with a clip like you describe, and if you have kids, or keep it
in a toolbox (or both) it's probably a good idea.
  All of my 199s are different in some way---no-name, Craftsman,
PowerKraft, one with a square butt----my favorite 199 is very slim, a
Strat compared to a Les Paul, but it slips out of the sheath every
time I sit down. SO, it's the bench knife, living in the pencil tin.
                 call me Slash, in Seattle; GAM
  
  
--- Michele Minch  wrote:
> 
>   gary may wrote:
> 
> >  But the 199, blade sticking out extra far and never rattling,
> pretty
> > much unbreakable and almost as solid as a REAL knife, now that's
> a
> > smoke!  And yes, they look cool.
> 
> I picked up one of the red Defiance 199's and it had a little 
> triangular folded steel guard over the blade - marked Stanley. 
> Just 
> pull it off to use the knife, then stick it back on to protect
> yourself.
> 
> Ed Minch
> 

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
http://calendar.yahoo.com

  gary may wrote:

>  But the 199, blade sticking out extra far and never rattling, pretty
> much unbreakable and almost as solid as a REAL knife, now that's a
> smoke!  And yes, they look cool.

I picked up one of the red Defiance 199's and it had a little 
triangular folded steel guard over the blade - marked Stanley.  Just 
pull it off to use the knife, then stick it back on to protect yourself.

Ed Minch