OldTools Archive

Recent Bios FAQ

101163 "Mike Schwartz" <rmunson@c...> 2001‑12‑23 Stanley 46 Tote Removal
Does anyone out there know how to get the wood of the rear tote off of a
Stanley 46 without destroying it?

Thanks!

Mike


101170 Bill Backstrom <wbackstrom@m...> 2001‑12‑23 Re: Stanley 46 Tote Removal
Hi Mike

On Sun, 23 Dec 2001, Mike Schwartz wrote:

> Does anyone out there know how to get the wood of the rear tote off of a
> Stanley 46 without destroying it?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike

I asked a similar question a few years back. Here's the response I got
from Tom McCluskey:

You might consider this.   I had to remove the handle on my #46, wery
similar to #45.  I first measured the the pin position on the pin side of
the handle.  Then I marked the pin position on the unpinned side of the
handle.  Drilled 1/16" holes down to the pin.  Used a small punch to tap
the pin out.  When I reassembled the tool, I used slivers of rosewood to
fill in the holes.

In order to repair the handle properly, you need to remove it.
(My opinion only)

Tom - "No, honey, I didn't buy any more old rusty tools.  They just
followed me home on their own."

On Mon, 23 Feb 1998 10:21:18 -0600 (CST) Bill Backstrom
 writes:
>
>Short Version:
>
>Picked up minty S.W. #45. Small crack in handle became bigger
>crack with first shaving. How can I fix it?
>

And a follow up on locating the pins:

All depends on how careful you measure.  I used a pencil and a small
square to
draw out the lines from the pin side of the handle to the unpinned side.
Important thing is to extend your lines around the edge of the handle
accurately so that you have good reference marks  on the unpinned side.
Measured and remeasured because I didn't want the swiss cheese look
either.  Used the smallest drill bit I could. The pin is about 1/8" in
diameter.  Figured a 1/16" drill bit would get me close with out major
damage.  When you get the old handle off, there should be a thin piece of
brown paper folded over the metal and apparently protected the wood from
the metal.  I replaced the paper with some very thin gasket paper,
punched holes through the paper where the pins go, replaced handle on
tool and just tapped pins back in.  Friction of the wood seems to be
holding in the pins nicely.   If the pin holes on your plane are
wallowed out, glue a small piece of  wood in the hole, and redrill to
suit pin size.

Hope this helps.

Bill Backstrom



Recent Bios FAQ