I'm not positive I'm right about this ( there are so many ways to be
wrong! ), but I think that the lateral cutting ability of the large LV
router makes it a rare bird. It can cut to within 1/8in or so of a
vertical surface, as you might do when repairing an old chest whose
drawers have worn ruts in the blades upon which they are resting. With a
slightly wider custom blade, you may be able to cut flush to a vertical.
The only other router I know of which may be able to do that is a large
On 2021-06-09 8:29 p.m., Chuck Taylor via groups.io wrote:
> Dan, you wrote:
> I came into possession of a Stanley 71 router. Although it came with a blade,
it was a beat-up and I had some gift cards to Lee Valley so I bought some new
blades for it (1/2" straight, 1/2" spear-point, and the 3/4" blade). It says on
the Lee Valley website that these blades fit the Stanley #71 router planes...
with the height-adjustment nut inverted. Therein lies the rub -- my 71 doesn't
have a height-adjustment mechanism. And the new Lee Valley blades are just a
hair too thick.
> The Lee Valley blades fit fine in my Stanley 71-1/2 (Patent date 10-29-01),
which does have a height-adjustment mechanism.
> My recommendation (probably heretical to some) is to buy a new Veritas router
plane from Lee Valley to go with the Veritas blades you already bought. While
Stanley router planes are fine tools, I find that the Veritas router plane in
practice simply works better. The adjustment mechanism is more precise and is
easier to use. With the Veritas, it is easy to set a max depth and then sneak up
> The height-adjustment mechanism, although nice to have, is not really
necessary. My wooden router planes do not have a height-adjustment mechanism
other than a hammer and a wedge, and they work fine. A nice workaround to a
screw-driven height-adjustment mechanism is to use two router planes: one set
for the final depth and one to sneak up on that depth. Just another reason why a
Galoot needs more than one of each tool.
> Chuck Taylor
> north of Seattle USA
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