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273660 scottg <scottg@s...> 2021‑05‑08 sharp enough
Once every few years I take another swing at a basic sharpening essay.

I realize most don't care for anything but videos nowdays. I can't find 
a videographer especially one who can edit. ha
But here we go anyway.

I grind tools. An ordinary bench grinder is what I use. I know its out 
of fashion, but countless generations before us lived by it.
When you make a nice hollow ground edge with a big fat burr hanging off 
the face side, you have created a fresh edge.
Its possible to take an old bevel and work it up the hard way with 
stones, and get a good sharp tool. But its rather brutal and it takes a 
lot of time.


http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/grinding.bmp

When you get even decently skilled with a grinder you can do a plane or 
chisel or other blade in a couple minutes flat.
When you grind a --fresh edge-- its all downhill from there.

You can learn to grind. Millions have.
I know it seems hard when you start. And you think you need some kind of 
jig or something.
But just remember, every truly great knife you ever saw was ground 
totally freehand. Those long deep beautiful bevels were made by a guy 
with a piece of steel in his hand, standing at the grinder.
All it takes is practice. Start on some scrap. Keep the work moving and 
keep your water dip cup handy.
No jig in the world gets you this (pic)

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/big5.jpg

Nice deep hollow ground bevel is what you want

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/bevel1.jpg

Once you have your new bevel flop your blade face down on your coarsest 
stone.
You want the stone fixed. You do not want to be chasing it around. It 
takes both hands. I make boxes with deep bottoms for my stones so I can 
clamp them securely in a vise or between bench dogs.

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/stonebox

You want your stone clean and dry. I clean any stone just before I use 
it. Mineral oil swirled on with my bare fingers, then sit a second to 
float the schmutz, then wipe dry. Clean and dry gets it done.

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/cleaningstone.bmp

Put the blade at the end of the stone away from you. Place the heel of 
one hand, or all 4 fingers, on top of the blade. Use the other to pull 
it toward you. Bear down. This is not a limp wrist activity.
Pull the blade to you and lift and back to the beginning and do it 
again. People worry about the bevel when its really the face of the 
blade that is the most important. Do lots of fast hard strokes this way.
Take a look once in a while and see if your scratches reach the edge. 
When you have have scratches to the end and the burr has rolled to the 
bevel side all the way across, you are done.
It only takes about 3 or 4 minutes usually.

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/flatonstone.bmp

Now move to the bevel. Your new hollow grind will "click" to the stone. 
Its easy to feel it when its hollow ground.
Your job is now to ride the top of the bevel and ease toward the edge. 
Rounding over, or creating a steeper bevel, is not what you want. So 
ride the top of the bevel most. The edge will take care of itself, trust me.
Take your grip and use force pulling the blade down the stone. Always 
pull. Its possible to sharpen other ways, but pulling is the most 
forgiving.
It only takes a few hard strokes on the bevel (10 or less usually) to 
roll the burr back over to the face side of your tool. Once you feel the 
burr you're done.

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/2ndangle.bmp

Now back to the face side with a finer stone.
Same thing, lots of hard fast strokes on the face of the blade. Go until 
the burr has rolled back to the bevel side and there is no mistake.
Work your bevel on the fine stone. It only take a few hard strokes. The 
burr you make now will be small but scratchy distinct all the way across.

Now go to your strop.
As always work the face of the blade first. Flop it down and pull it. 
Lots of hard fast strokes on the face side. Keep polishing that face!!

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/flatonleather.bmp

Then do the bevel side. It takes more strokes on the bevel side with the 
strop. But now you are going fast and hard so it doesn't take long.

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/angleonleather.bm
p

Finish with a few more strokes on the face. Its always the face. The 
face is where the money is.
The old Japanese masters used to say, 10 strokes the face for every 
stroke of the bevel.
I would never bother to count, but its close to the truth

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/sharpenough10.jpg

This the hardest thing I have ever written. Its the most important thing.
It'll never be perfect.
     yours scott

-- 
*******************************
    Scott Grandstaff
    Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca  96039
    scottg@s...
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html
273662 Erik Levin 2021‑05‑08 Re: sharp enough
Scott finished with:

> This the hardest thing I have ever written. Its the most important thing.


This is true. Very nice writeup.


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273665 Ed Minch <edminch3@g...> 2021‑05‑08 Re: sharp enough
Thanks Scott - we all need that once in a while

Ed Minch

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