OldTools Archive
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266250 | RH <rhhutchins@h...> | 2018‑07‑30 | Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
I have some antler shed. I want to insert some magnesium rods into pieces cut off to make fire starters. Is this material too hard to drill with, say, and eggbeater and a good bit? I'm thinking a masonry bit. I haven't tried it yet because I don't have a huge supply of antler and don't want to spoil any if I can help it. If anyone else has done this, I'd be much obliged for the benefit of your experience and advice. Bob Hutchins Temple, TX, USA --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus |
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266252 | Phil Schempf <philschempf@g...> | 2018‑07‑30 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
Bob - Antler drills easily with a regular twist bit. No need for a masonry bit. The exterior is the hardest while the interior is more porous and softer. You might want to start the hole with a birdcage awl to keep the bit from skittering across the surface. I haven’t had any trouble with the bit chipping the edge of the hole with a sharp bit. Phil Sent from my iPhone |
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266253 | Anthony Seo | 2018‑07‑30 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
On 7/30/2018 3:36 PM, RH wrote: > I have some antler shed. I want to insert some magnesium rods into > pieces cut off to make fire starters. Is this material too hard to > drill with, say, and eggbeater and a good bit? I'm thinking a masonry > bit. I haven't tried it yet because I don't have a huge supply of > antler and don't want to spoil any if I can help it. A regular twist bit drill will work. BUT, wear a face mask or do it outside, antler dust is just like bone dust and should not be inhaled.. Tony (where the rain is a coming yet again...) -- Facebook https://www.facebook.com/tonyseomusic Old River Hard Goods http://oldetoolshop.com/ |
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266255 | scott grandstaff <scottg@s...> | 2018‑07‑30 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
antler dust is just like bone dust and should not be inhaled.. The good part is, nobody needs to tell you that the second time. Bone, same as seashell, is so noxious when worked, well you will just naturally take your own precautions the second time.......... Don't believe me? Walk up to a spinning grinder and press a piece of seashell to it. You'll --run-- from the room in 20 seconds flat! EEEEEyowza that stinks! haahahaha When I work either, I work directly in front of an exhaust fan, with the door open on the far side of the room to let in a steady supply of fresh air. yours Scott -- ******************************* Scott Grandstaff Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca 96039 scottg@s... http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/ http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html |
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266256 | Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> | 2018‑07‑30 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
A trick I recently learned(you probably all know it and never told me) is to make a dimple with an appropriate tool,then run the twist drill backwards a few revolution to enlarge the pilot centered on the dimple, then proceed. Ed Minch |
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266259 | Brent A Kinsey <brentpmed@c...> | 2018‑07‑30 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
Thanks for that Ed, I had not yet learned to run a bit backwards to help starting. Good to know, another skill in my kit! Brent A Kinsey |
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266260 | CheekyGeek <cheekygeek@g...> | 2018‑07‑30 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
There are galoots and then there are the protogaloots. https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/photograph-of-an-inupiat- man-using-a-bow-drill-to-drill-a-news-photo/640482885#photograph-of-an-inupiat- man-using-a-bowdrill-to-drill-a-hole-in-a-picture- id640482885">https://www.gettyimages.com/detail/news-photo/photograph-of-an- inupiat-man-using-a-bow-drill-to-drill-a-news-photo/640482885#photograph-of-an- inupiat-man-using-a-bowdrill-to-drill-a-hole-in-a-picture-id640482885 Darren Addy Kearney, NE On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 2:36 PM, RH |
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266262 | "yorkshireman@y..." <yorkshireman@y...> | 2018‑07‑31 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
Ed’s epiphany… and the appropriate tool would be - a centre punch. What you use to punch a mark at the point where a hole needs to be drilled. I have aa automatic one I bought when I was in school - back in the days when schools had workshops. Place the point on the mark, press down, and whack - a wee dimple that guides in a jacobs twist bit, or the point of a screw, or owt else… Richard Wilson Yorkshireman galoot, where Northumbria has turned hot and sunny again. |
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266263 | Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> | 2018‑07‑31 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
Richard I have a couple of those, both Starrett, and they seem to do a more useful job on metal than an wood. Even though the pressure is adjustable, it seems all it does is make a deeper small hole Ed Minch |
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266264 | <gtgrouch@r...> | 2018‑07‑31 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
I've worked with shell using a wet grinder/sander meant for lapidary work. It can be done! YMMV, void where prohibited by law, Gary Katsanis Albion New York, USA ---- scott grandstaff |
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266265 | "yorkshireman@y..." <yorkshireman@y...> | 2018‑07‑31 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
I agree - have to be turned right down for use on wood, and on soft woods an auto punch can be aggressive. But for antler? or horn? or bone? And for aligning screws in hinges I find it a useful tool, quicker than a bradawl, and good at locating a centre. Not that I’m advocating the abandonment of bradawls. They have their part to play in severing wood fibres and producing a pilot hole, which a centre punch will never do. Just one more instance of tools finding alternative employment if you don’t give them enough interesting work to do. Richard WIlson Yorkshireman Galoot |
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266266 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2018‑07‑31 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
On 2018-07-31 9:29 AM, Ed Minch wrote: > I have a couple of those, both Starrett, and they seem to do a more useful job on metal than an wood. Even though the pressure is adjustable, it seems all it does is make a deeper small hole > Ed Minch The same is true of my No.280 Moore & Wright Automatic Centre Punch. It leaves an excellent dimple on metal, making it easy to center a twist bit. But on many woods the dimple's too small to be helpful, except for creating a registration mark for a beefier, hammered centre punch with a wider tip. The narrow tip of the automatic punch makes it easy to make a spot-on mark, but the hammered variety creates a larger dimple which makes for easier registration of a drill bit, particularly on softer woods. My C$0.02 Don -- “Error flies from mouth to mouth, from pen to pen, and to destroy it takes ages.” Voltaire “A great many people think they are thinking when they are merely re-arranging their prejudices.” William James |
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266311 | Thomas Conroy | 2018‑08‑07 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
Scott hit the mark as usual: "The good part is, nobody needs to tell you that the second time. Bone, same as seashell, is so noxious when worked, well you will just naturally take your own precautions the second time.......... "? Don't believe me? Walk up to a spinning grinder and press a piece of seashell to it. You'll --run-- from the room in 20 seconds flat! EEEEEyowza that stinks!? haahahaha" Ohyeah. Stinks like a dentist's office when he's getting down to serious work on you. Lots of nasty memories, in addition to the simple stench. But the good thing is, you don't need to use power for bone or for antler. I've used lots of both materials, especially for making "bone" folders. And I've handled small knives and walking sticks with antler. A 6" or 8" half-round bastard file will cut bone comparably fast with a grinding wheel or a 100 grit sanding wheel--- a bit slower, maybe, but comparable in speed, and the file is a lot less nasty. The dust taken off by the file is coarser, so it lingers in the air for less time (after years of white dust all over my house and clothing I finally came down to doing all bone and antler work outdoors. Its easier. Trust me.) The wheel or the sander heats up the fine dust, intensifying the smell--- working with a file (or an eggbeater drill) isn't so nose-gaggingly reminiscent of the dentist's. An eggbeater drill does fine for drilling; or if you are clearing out the spongy area at the core of antler, an auger bit should do fine, though finding the right size may take a bit of experiment (you want to just touch the hard outer layers of the antler, mostly removing the spongy area with the auger bit). Hard enough to need a masonry drill? Just the opposite. Bone is easily worked with hand woodworking tools. Antler is, usually, even softer than bone. And the deeper you get into antler, the softer it is. and when you get to the porous area at the core of the antler, well, you can crush it in with your fingers, most of the time. If you drill a hole in the end of a piece of antler expecting to set a knife blade in it, the steel will crush the porous area and loosen before you get the knife into use. I've done this, drilled a larger hole, done it again, had it loosen again, until finally I had all the spongy bit removed. Then I was able to set the blade in putty or something. Now, with a knife blade I would clear out the sponge right away and plan from the start for filling. For a walking stick handle, I make the wood tenon on the end of the shaft big enough to touch solid antler all the way around. Some antler has very thin hard walls and a lot of sponge. Other pieces have almost no sponge and are solid most of the way through. For your magnesium rods, Bob, I suppoose you will want to insert them in the end of the piece of antler. Drill the right size hole and if you are lucky you may be in the solid area. If any spponge is showing, though, you might want to drill a larger hole, put in a wood plug, and then drill the pluug for the magnesium rod. Either that, or maybe clear out the spong and set the rod in epoxxy. Bone/antler is brittle, so it doesn't respond to tools in just the way wood does. Maybe it takes off an edge a bit faster, and needs a more obtuse edge, say 35 degrees instead of 20 degrees. But hand tools are plenty. And it is really pretty, as well as a naturally good grip, when you are done. Tom Conroy, late to the game as usual |
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266314 | RH <rhhutchins@h...> | 2018‑08‑08 | Re: Drilling Antler the Galoot Way |
Thanks, Tom! I just couldn't see letting the antler go unused when it would be so cool to have a magnesium rod with and antler handle. Maybe I'll plan on putting the magnesium rods in wood and making antler scales. Thanks to all who responded on this. Still working on that Yamaha guitar action, bought a fiddle, and waiting for the antler fire-starter roundtuit to show up. Best to all Bob Hutchins Temple, TX, USA |
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