Thanks All, after years of accumulation I am just glad to finally be using
some of these tools.

And Greg, sorry I don't have pics of the process but I did it very simply.
I kept all moldings overlong and then mitered when done. This allowed me to
plane the entire stick and no matter how much I wandered, the pieces
matched, i.e., similar to cutting a board at a 45 degree and joining - all
grain would match around the corner. But as for the process I mapped out a
molding on Sketchup by scanning the molding from an image from some antique
website. I then used the principles from By Hand & Eye to roughly
proportion the ratios and placed them in Sketchup. These only formed a
rough guide but allowed me to get some ideas without totally making them
up.

I next marked a series of lines down the entire stick mapping the high and
low points...similar to what one does when turning a spindle. All lines
were made by using my thumb and finger to offset a pencil from the edge
(that I ran my finger down). In other words my lines were created by
running a pencil down the stick using my hand as the spacer (
https://www.familyhandyman.com/diy-advice/how-to-use-your-finger-to-
draw-straight-lines/">https://www.familyhandyman.com/diy-advice/how-to-use-your-
finger-to-draw-straight-lines/).
After that I just grabbed a round and using my finger again as a spacer
slowly cut until I tracked well. Then Bob's your Uncle. All convex curves
were done with a flat bottomed plane. I cut a piece of saw steel and filed
it as a scraper to refine the concavities and of course sanded with a dowel
or flat stock where needed

It was real easy. Once smooth, miter at 45 and tack with 3d (or 2 - can't
recall) Tremont brads. But another key point is the top molding is built up
from two layers. Happy to share my Sketchup for anyone interested...but I
don't know how revealing it is