Galootinous ones.

Time for a call for help, making a plane work better, which is definitely
in someone here's wheelhouse.

I few months back, at our July FleaBAG run, I pickup up a small bullnosed
infill plane, probably Bronze.

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Tools/Bullnose-Infill-Plane/

Was quite pleased with myself, until I got it home and tried to make
shavings with it.  Horrible chatter, cruddy cut.  Looking at my picture,
you can probably see why.  The blade is not resting down on the ramp behind
the mouth, probably for the good and the bad.

Now that I have taken it apart and looked closely, it obviously has a flaw
or two.  As it is now, when the wedge is fully inserted, the tip of the
blade comes up, because the ramp behind the mouth is not coplanar with the
back end of the body that the blade is held down against. (About ~1/8" too
low)

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Tools/Bullnose-
Infill-Plane/i-zphQmqC

The inside of the casting is fairly smooth, not sure why the infil is
irregularly shaped.

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Tools/Bullnose-
Infill-Plane/i-gTNfnt8

Additionally, the Tee shaped blade (cut down from a Stanley #90 or
something similar) is fully backed up against the body under the Tee, so I
am stuck with how little the blade protrudes (depth of cut), until I do a
lot of sharpening.  Without the wedge seated, the blade protrudes 1/32"+.
Seated wedge brings it down to 0.

So, I obviously have a choice or three to make.

1 - Make a new infill that is taller than the back of the body, and allow
that to stop the wedge movement instead of the body.  Sharpen the blade, or
remove part of the underside of the Tee to get back to 0 projection. (Or
cut the plane body back)

2 - Lower the angle of the ramp by filing the ramp behind the mouth until
coplanar with the back.

3 - Your better suggestion here

Thanks in advance for good ideas.
-- 
Kirk Eppler in Half Moon Bay, CA, trying to work through long telephone
conferences.

Kirk,

Nice-looking plane!

My guess is that the infill that you got with the plane is a replacement. I
think that the proper repair would be to make a new infill, making sure that it
supports the blade properly. But before I did that, I think I would try to shim
up the existing infill from underneath.

Good luck!

Chuck Taylor
north of Seattle

--------------
I few months back, at our July FleaBAG run, I pickup up a small bullnosed 
infill plane, probably Bronze.

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Tools/Bullnose-Infill-Plane/

....the ramp behind the mouth is not coplanar with the back end of the body that
the blade is held down against. About ~1/8" too low)

> On Oct 20, 2017, at 14:04 , Kirk Eppler  wrote:
> 
> 1 - Make a new infill that is taller than the back of the body, and allow
> that to stop the wedge movement instead of the body.  Sharpen the blade, or
> remove part of the underside of the Tee to get back to 0 projection. (Or
> cut the plane body back)

Looks like you have some trouble with shrinkage here,
Kirk! I'd say you're on the right track with replacing
the infill, and that's preferable to modifying the body
of the plane IMHO. As a quick fix, you could shim the
infill, which might also help get you a pattern for a
new one.

Because I'm lazy, I'd try grinding the shoulders of the
iron to shorten the tee section, rather than taking it
off the cutting edge.

Neat little plane, though, and it should be fun to use.

Adam

HI

On 2017-10-20 14:04, Kirk Eppler wrote:
> 1 - Make a new infill that is taller than the back of the body, and allow
> that to stop the wedge movement instead of the body.  Sharpen the blade, or
> remove part of the underside of the Tee to get back to 0 projection. (Or
> cut the plane body back)
My picks:

New infill. A lower angle will reduce the clearance which could be a 
problem. A new infill at an appropriate angle - 15 degrees - may also 
allow you to retain a little more of the blade since the blade will hit 
higher on the back of the mouth.

Work the back of the blade to shorten as required.

Brent
-- 
Brent Beach
Victoria, BC, Canada

Hi Kirk--
   I'd do what Chuck suggests shim 'from underneath'  just because it's the
simplest, and entirely likely to solve the problem.  The blade in this plane
doesn't need a lot of support---like in a miter plane, or a complex molder---so
just getting it pointed in the right direction and bedded close to the cutting
edge will probably make everything work out fine.  Though it won't make a Ward,
or a Preston cutter out of a Stanley iron...keep your eyes open for the prize...
                           btw, ain't that gunmetal? shore pretty---gam in
OlyWA/USA

How horrible it is to have so many people killed!---And what a blessing one
cares for none of them!
Jane Austen

      From: Chuck Taylor via OldTools 
 To: Kirk Eppler ; Tools Old  
 Sent: Friday, October 20, 2017 4:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [OldTools] Bullnose Infill Plane Help
   
Kirk,

Nice-looking plane!

My guess is that the infill that you got with the plane is a replacement. I
think that the proper repair would be to make a new infill, making sure that it
supports the blade properly. But before I did that, I think I would try to shim
up the existing infill from underneath.

Good luck!

Chuck Taylor
north of Seattle

--------------
I few months back, at our July FleaBAG run, I pickup up a small bullnosed 
infill plane, probably Bronze.

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Tools/Bullnose-Infill-Plane/

....the ramp behind the mouth is not coplanar with the back end of the body that
the blade is held down against. About ~1/8" too low)
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OldTools@s...

Kirk is calling in for a confusion of opinions - right place to ask. 

Here’s one more opinion worth what you paid for it.

First off - don’t be afeard to do some work on it.  If it doesn’t work now -
well, it can only get better.

What do we know?
Wedges work well if they are accurate, and arranged to trap the blade at a solid
point near the cutting edge
Low angles are generally good for this style of plane. 
The wedge is also the main place you grip it in use, so needs to be comfy. 
You need the ability to retract the blade for storage.  

What to do?
The problem with fettling the bed is the lack of access.  So change the bed.  
new infill, as suggested, or shim the present one.  Either way, you need a solid
point to engage the wedge, and a long length of bed to support your hand
pressure in use.   Easy enough to file down the back end of the casting if
necessary.  Maybe a decent hardwood bad, full length.
The wedge needs to engage at a point near the cutting edge.  Somewhere on the
leading solid bronze portion would be good, from the look of it.
Cut down the rear edges of the blade to add clearance.  There’s about  20 years
life in that blade as it is, so don’t worry about it.
Take care that the wedge isn’t engaging on the tail of the blade as you set it.
It can be relieved on its underside back to the end of the bronze, so the
comfort section hanging over the fresh air is just that - comfort, and not
working.

and of course you will have checked the sole for flatness, and the bed for
flatness.  looks as if you can only gain file access from the side, or will a
flat needle file go through the mouth without harming the leading edge.

Looks like a morning’s work ahead of you.  


Enjoy!


Richard Wilson
Northumbrian Galoot
from Yorkshire.