Galootinous ones.

Time for a call for help, making a plane work better, which is definitely
in someone here's wheelhouse.

I few months back, at our July FleaBAG run, I pickup up a small bullnosed
infill plane, probably Bronze.

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Tools/Bullnose-Infill-Plane/

Was quite pleased with myself, until I got it home and tried to make
shavings with it.  Horrible chatter, cruddy cut.  Looking at my picture,
you can probably see why.  The blade is not resting down on the ramp behind
the mouth, probably for the good and the bad.

Now that I have taken it apart and looked closely, it obviously has a flaw
or two.  As it is now, when the wedge is fully inserted, the tip of the
blade comes up, because the ramp behind the mouth is not coplanar with the
back end of the body that the blade is held down against. (About ~1/8" too
low)

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Tools/Bullnose-
Infill-Plane/i-zphQmqC

The inside of the casting is fairly smooth, not sure why the infil is
irregularly shaped.

https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Tools/Bullnose-
Infill-Plane/i-gTNfnt8

Additionally, the Tee shaped blade (cut down from a Stanley #90 or
something similar) is fully backed up against the body under the Tee, so I
am stuck with how little the blade protrudes (depth of cut), until I do a
lot of sharpening.  Without the wedge seated, the blade protrudes 1/32"+.
Seated wedge brings it down to 0.

So, I obviously have a choice or three to make.

1 - Make a new infill that is taller than the back of the body, and allow
that to stop the wedge movement instead of the body.  Sharpen the blade, or
remove part of the underside of the Tee to get back to 0 projection. (Or
cut the plane body back)

2 - Lower the angle of the ramp by filing the ramp behind the mouth until
coplanar with the back.

3 - Your better suggestion here

Thanks in advance for good ideas.
-- 
Kirk Eppler in Half Moon Bay, CA, trying to work through long telephone
conferences.