OldTools Archive

Recent Bios FAQ

182406 "Ellis, Thomas" <thomas_ellis@r...> 2008‑08‑22 RE: Re: 3-Minute Dovetails
This is becoming an interesting topic, not - for once - because it's
about pins or tails first, but because it gets into the different ways
of thinking and the assumptions we make. For example, John talks here
about the margin of error for the thickness of a marking gauge pin. But
I never use a marking gauge for this, because a cutting gauge - with a
blade rather than a pin - doesn't have that problem.

Also, the point with the Kirby, et.al. approach is that it's much easier
to plane the faces of the sides than the end grain of the front and back
(with drawers), plus, if you know you're not going to plane end grain,
you can cut the length of the front to exactly match the width of the
opening, and then plane down to meet it. The result - when done
correctly - is less effort to reach a precise result.

Another assumption is that the guage - whichever it is -should exactly
match the thickness of a board. But the Kirby method - as several have
pointed out - is to inentionally set the gauge just a tad narrower,
intentionally creating a recessed pin-end.

We seem to have several instances here of having trouble hearing what
someone else is saying, because of the individual assumptions we make
about the "self-evident" approach to take. Not any right or wrong here,
just - as I said - veryinteresting, suggesting to me, anyway, to be more
aware of, and question, the assumptions I make.

Tom Ellis Dayton, OH
> -----Original Message----- From: oldtools-bounces@r...> [mailto:oldtools-
> bounces@r...] On Behalf Of> John Manners Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008
> 5:07 AM To: paul womack; metalworker.mike@g...
> Cc: oldtools@r... Subject: Re: [OldTools] Re: 3-Minute Dovetails
>> Paul Womack writes:
>> > Yes - but I follow Kirby in this regard. The ends
> > of both work pieces are short to length and square. Final finish is
> > by planing the faces, not the tails.
> >
> > This is the only accurate way to make a dovetailed item of a known
> > finished exterior size.
>> Is falling short all round by half the thickness of a gauge> pin
>> within the acceptable parameters of accuracy? If not,> allow an
>> extra> 1/16th" which seems to be the standard thickness for> marking-
>> gauge pins. Cut the boards plumb and square (naturally) to final
>> length,> with or without the extra 1/16". Set the gauge to the
>> thickness of one board by holding the> pin against one side of it and
>> pushing the fence along the> stock until it> firmly touches the other
>> side, trapping the thickness of the> board between the fence and pin.
>> Lightly gauge both sides of the end> of the board to be joined to the
>> one from which the gauge was> set and so on around the entire box.
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>-


Recent Bios FAQ