Jeff points out. .. 

responding to Gary's comments..
>
> In response to the oily substance that never dried. In all
> likelyhood... boiled linseed oil or even raw linseed oil. Neither of
> which will ever dry to a hard film.
(snip)

However, I cursed the day when after trueing up my beech bench top I
swilled raw linseed oil on the top and rubbed it in. It took a week or
two to dry, after contaminating paper and workpieces left on the 'dry'
surface.

Maybe the frequently reported Murrican problems are due to local
factors not often applying in Ukadia.


To which I'll add that, as far as I know, Linseed is a self-polymerising oil,
which will react with atmospheric oxygen to cure iinto a solid film.
This takes a long time for raw oil. 

But, Once started, this will continue.  Oil held within the grain of a lump of
beech (like a plane body) will be denied oxygen, so can 'weep' until the
end grain is sealed.

Steam injection to linseed oil (boiled oil) was started as a means to speed the
process by beginning the oxygenation, arresting it whilst the oil is still
liquid, then bottling and selling it.  Metallic driers are also added nowadays,
so don't dry drinking the stuff.

As Jeff used raw oil, he would be expecting a couple of weeks before full
curing took place.  If he'd used boiled oil, then a few days would have
sufficed. 


FWIW - I too use Linseed - of all types, and have never had any problem, other
than my own impatience wanting the job to dry ready for the next coat.  

I am aware of stories on the porch regarding subsequent mould growth etc,
asmentioned in a recent thread.  But in our balmy climate !!


Richard Wilson
The *real* Yorkshireman from east of the pennines   :-)