At 7:32 PM -0400 7/14/00, Stephen Reynolds wrote:
> THE PRACTICAL WOODWORKER, the collection of WW essays edited by the
> > inimitable Bernard Jones, originally published in Great Britain sometime in
> > the early 20th century, republished over here about 1983 by Ten Speed
> > Press.  In opening the chapter on "The Plane," (p. 55) Jones has this to
> > say:
> >  "A plane should be 'oiled' before using' this makes it heavier,
> > lessens the friction, and thus makes the plane work easily.


>Steve - who once saw a couple of panel raising planes in an auction house
>that were wrapped in Saran because someone had treated them with an oily
>substance that had not dried, and was challenging to remove.

In response to the oily substance that never dried. In all 
likelyhood... boiled linseed oil or even raw linseed oil. Neither of 
which will ever dry to a hard film. Apply enough boiled linseed oil 
and you WILL end up with a gloppy sticky mess. In particular when it 
is warm out.

As for Mr. Jones, whom I have the utmost respect for, he spoke from 
the accepted knowledge base of the day. Which is to say he spoke from 
handed down 'truisms' that had little if any basis in hard scientific 
fact. Jones, as well as Paul Hasluck, wrote regular columns in 
various craftsman and home handyman journals of the later 19th and 
early 20th Centuries. Some of their writings where their own and some 
simply re-tellings of folklore and myth. If you read the original 
columns in Carpentry and Building, you can find references to the 
fact that Hasluck was recounting another person's information. Same 
with Jones. He compiled and edited columns that were submitted by 
other people, along with penning some material of his own. The Ten 
Speed Press reprint is an edited compilation of the original three 
volume set which was a compilation of the columns. See the problem?

If you read the reprints of various early planemakers catalogs, 
you'll find reference to 'French' and to 'Bright' and to "Best" 
finish. Oil finish, if referred to, was down the list. My assumption 
is that most planemakers assumed that if the buyer did not ask for 
the shellac finish, then the buyer would apply whatever finish was 
preferred.

Back to the myth of Linseed Oil. It was available, plentiful and 
cheaper then many other types of oil. When applied, it appeared to 
provide a waterproof finish and even looks good for a while. After 
all, if it was good for grand dad, it was good for you.

Having applied more then enough WATCO in my day, I now prefer to 
leave well enough alone UNLESS the plane is destined for use. A wash 
down with mineral spirits. Acetone if necessary to remove stubborn 
tar and to zap any live creatures. Wax if necessary for surface 
protection and to bring up a dull grain. Wiped on Shellac if that was 
the original finish or if I plan on using the plane. OR if the wood 
is soft and needs some minor reinforcement.

If the endgrain is split, I usually leave it alone. Soaking in any 
oil (read: most commercial oil finishes) will only leave you with a 
gummy exudate next hot summer day. I guess you could use a wipe on 
varnish (simply dilute varnish with lotsa oils added) but why bother 
when you have Shellac? Split engrain is allready physically 
compromised. The integrity of the wood fibers has been breached. 
Nothing short of injecting glue will hold it together again (and that 
will only result in further splits as the seasons change). If the 
split doesn't affect use or looks, why worry? Besides, when you get 
really old and gray and your skin starts looking dry and crinkly, 
would you want someone to apply linseed oil to you?

Gary

For the matter, three of my favorite planes are a set of L. Little 
complex molding profiles that have never seen a touch of oil or wax. 
You can see the finger marks from years of use.


Gary Roberts groberts@s...
Dedham, MA...Antique tools, Art Pottery, Hong Kong cinema, what else is there?