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271934 "Adam R. Maxwell via OldTools" <oldtools@s...> 2020‑10‑15 Re: Adam's shop [Was "crown molding application to bookcase"]
Hi, Chuck,

Nice to hear from you again!

> On Oct 14, 2020, at 10:39 , Chuck Taylor  wrote:
> Gentle Galoots,
> Pardon me for hijacking this thread to talk about some other goodies in Adam's
shop photos.

Tool photos are bait for that sort of thing around here :).

> Adam, you wrote:
>> Photos here of the case as it stands, and the moulding in
>> question. ...
> >  https:/
>> I threw in some gratuitous photos of milling the back...
> Thanks for doing that! I love that frame saw! Where did the blade come from?
How do you get it started accurately with teeth that size? Judging from the
looks of your cabinet back, it appears to work a treat!

The blade started out as 1095 shim stock from McMaster, and I cut
the teeth by hand, using a taper to mark the notches and a three-square
bastard files to remove the bulk of the metal. I vaguely recall
using a hacksaw on some of them, but that may have just been to
define the rake angle with a kerf.

To start the frame saw, I use an Atkins or Disston 4-1/2 pt rip saw
to get a kerf along the end, then go to town. I have in my notes
that it took 1/2 hr to resaw a 11-1/2” x 39” board; I wasn't going
too fast, since I was actually wearing a respirator in the shop due
to all the smoke from OR and CA fires that week. All of these met
up really well, at least by my standards, sawing from both ends.

I wanted to resaw the 6 ft long boards for the back as one, but
reckon I would've had to build a pit for that, or buy a b@n...
Joining the back boards at a shelf looks fine, though, and this will
all be painted, so ignore the incorrect bookmatching.

> I see that you have installed a planing stop with steel teeth on/in your bench
top. Like Chris Schwarz has been touting lately. How is it working for you? Any
problems with the teeth marking the ends of the stock?

I made that years ago out of a piece of hot-rolled rod stock. It's
fantastic, although it's unforgiving if you hit it with a plane or
chisel. It marks the ends of stock, but end grain is supposed to
be covered up, right?

> I like the way you have mounted a twin-screw vise at what looks like the left
end of your bench with fixed screws and movable nuts. I've seen it done that way
in some of the old historical illustrations that Chris has made available, but
nowhere else.

That is only used for resawing, and I just have the nuts on there
as fixed stops. Someday I might add handles to the screws. They were
made as the final gasp of a crappy Taiwanese screw box before the
cutter self-destructed, along with the brass bolt that held it.

I made a Moxon-type vise first, and the screw for my miter jack, so
got some usage out of the threader before it died. I probably get
more use from the miter jack than the vise, to be honest. Crochet,
planing stop, battens, and holdfasts are my thing.

Benton City, WA

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