I am surprised the traditional method has yet to appear.....
ITOD, the moulding was applied using a sliding dovetail. Male mounted
to the cabinet, female routed on the molding.
Sometimes the DT section applied in a single continuous strip, but more
commonly in short sections... You would glue/screw/nail the male piece
to the cabinet, keeping the alignment. With short sections of DT, you
just nail or glue them on.
Then the actual molding is applied to this DT strip. The molding is
applied to the sides by gluing/nailing the first couple of inches along
the front, then allowed to be free moving along the back....
expansion/contraction being the issue. The movement becomes an issue
only along the back, away from the observer, so it "disappears".....
Since the front piece does not have an issue with cross grained
movement, you can glue/nail this section along its length, or spotty gluing.
With your very wide/thick molding, it is an option....... and it hides
the carcase DT well.
But it is LOT of work. Especially doing it all with hand tools.
Note on the male DT strip: It is usually made from the end of a board,
meaning the grain along the DT is not aligned with the length, but
perpendicular to it.... think short grain along the length.
This way, if the carcase wants to tug at the DT, the DT breaks off, and
the cabinet side is not constrained.
>> I now find myself having made a crown moulding for it to hide the dovetails.
>> The moulding is 2-1/4" wide (it's from p. 192 of Bickford's book, taken
>> from a Rhode Island chest). I'm planning to join the corners of the moulding
>> with miters, but I'm worrying about expansion and contraction. What's the
>> best way to affix a crown moulding to a carcase? Nail the front and sides?
>> Nail the sides only? Nail the front only? Glue seems like a bad idea,
>> regardless, but I'd rather not see a big ol' seasonal gap on my mitered
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