OldTools Archive
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269178 | Gmail <shadowd@g...> | 2019‑09‑10 | Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
Dear Galoots: Some years back I built a laminated Krenov style smoother from a block of sycamore, with a cocobolo cross pin. Somewhere along the way I must have been a little too aggressive setting the wedge, and one of the ends of the pin has snapped. I have had a look around online, and have yet to see any discussion of repairing this kind of break. I am loath to saw off one of the cheeks to completely replace the pin. What do you think of either a.) through drilling the pin and gluing in a steel rod, or b.) putting a screw in through both sides, or c.) something I have not thought of? Regards, Marc |
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269179 | Zachary Dillinger <zacharydillinger@g...> | 2019‑09‑10 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
I replaced one once and did your Option A, drilled through the existing pin and inserted a metal rod. I used copper because that is what I had on hand. That said, if I ever had to do it again, I think I would, as an experiment, take a cue from the way a wristwatch strap is held on. I would try to make a wooden pin about 1/16 shorter than the plane throat is wide. I would then drill the pin ends to receive short metal rods of the same diameter as the original pin end tenons. Drill the holes a little more than twice as deep as necessary, insert a compression spring, then the metal rods, Then, using finger pressure on the ends of the metal pins, I would push the pins into the body of the cross pin, slide it into place, and move it around until the metal pins seat into the holes in the cheek walls of the plane body. Again, this is all theoretical but it would be an interesting exercise in precision. -- Zachary Dillinger 517-231-3374 |
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269180 | Gmail <shadowd@g...> | 2019‑09‑10 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
That is a very interesting solution! I like that idea. If for some reason it doesn’t work out, I could still go with a rod through the middle. Very cool, thank you. —Marc |
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269181 | Zachary Dillinger <zacharydillinger@g...> | 2019‑09‑10 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
In thinking a little more about this, you could probably drill all the way through the pin and use longer metal rods and just one compression spring. As you squeezed the rods into place with your fingers, the spring would be sandwiched between the metal pins and should still work fine. Getting the pin length exactly right might be a bit tricky but this would give you nearly solid metal support across the whole width of the wooden pin. Zachary Dillinger 517-231-3374 |
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269182 | John Ruth <johnrruth@h...> | 2019‑09‑10 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
Are the ends of the pin exposed on both cheeks? If so, cut the pin off nearly flush with the interior of the throat. Drive out both stubs with a wooden drift. Through-drill a replacement pin center and then shape it to properly grip the blade. ( Easier to grip if drilled before shaping. ) Use a drill press to keep the hole parallel with the axis (Galootish post drill or Yankee hand cranked drill press. ) Note that this will be the same flatted shape per Krenov. Gently drive a brass axle through the whole assembly. Everything should be a press-fit. Bob’s yer uncle: you have Flatted pin to grip the wedge, pressed onto a replaceable brass axle which will never break unless brutally abused. John Ruth Who admires Krenov’s flatted pin which gives a much better grip on the wedge than a round pin ever could. |
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269183 | Kirk Eppler | 2019‑09‑10 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 9:36 AM Gmail |
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269184 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2019‑09‑10 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
Kirk et al It strikes me these approaches may be overkill. I would first consider simply drilling the cocobolo out and replacing it with something more resistant to rupture - Verawood aka Argentine Lignum Vitae for instance. And practice less aggression on setting the wedge. ;-) As well, I wonder whether it might be possible to redrill the sides and install a pin with a larger diameter. Even a small increase in size should give a considerable increase in strength. FWIW Don On 2019-09-10 12:07 p.m., Kirk Eppler via OldTools wrote: > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 9:36 AM Gmail |
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269185 | Kirk Eppler | 2019‑09‑10 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
‘‘Twas my thought, but some people like the clear sides without the pin showing. I am too afraid I can’t drill that accurately. Kirk On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 1:09 PM Don Schwartz |
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269186 | Chuck Taylor | 2019‑09‑11 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
Marc and other Gentle Galoots, If you simply reinforce the existing pin with a metal rod, then you won't need to do anything to the wedge. If, however, you replace the pin, you may have to replace or at least fettle the wedge as well. Cheers, Chuck Taylor north of Seattle who loves his Krenovian smoother ============ On Tuesday, September 10, 2019, 1:28:21 PM PDT, Don Schwartz |
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269187 | Don Schwartz <dks@t...> | 2019‑09‑11 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
Interesting point. Is it easier to make a good fit of a steel rods and possibly springs into a broken wooden pin or to install a new pin and maybe make or fettle a wedge? I expect it might depend on your tools and skill-set. Are more tools in order? To go back a bit, how can a well-fitting wedge break a well-sized and fitted pin on one side only, when both pieces are quite tightly constrained in a small space? Just wondering... Don On 2019-09-10 9:39 p.m., Chuck Taylor wrote: > Marc and other Gentle Galoots, > > If you simply reinforce the existing pin with a metal rod, then you won't need to do anything to the wedge. If, however, you replace the pin, you may have to replace or at least fettle the wedge as well. > > Cheers, > Chuck Taylor > north of Seattle > who loves his Krenovian smoother > > ============ > > On Tuesday, September 10, 2019, 1:28:21 PM PDT, Don Schwartz |
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269188 | Derek Cohen <derekcohen@i...> | 2019‑09‑12 | Re: Repairing a Krenovian smoother |
The simplest fix is to: 1. Remove the old wedge completely. 2. Drill out the existing holes in the plane (through the sides). 3. Fit a steel rod. 4. Drill out a block of wood a little over the size of the wedge and turn it to round. Insert the steel rod through the centre. 5. Now shape the block to the dimensions of the original wedge. Remember that the rod will be offset. 6. Remove the rod, insert the wedge in the plane, thread the rod through the body into the wedge and again the body. 7. Trim the rod to size. Bob's your aunty. There is a built on my website. This includes a shaping of the wedge. http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/BuildingaKrenovSmoother.html Regards from Perth Derek |
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