Richard Wilson wrote: "However, their heavy blade and (sometimes) steeper pitch,
once set up for work on your mahogany or oak or whatever, are a joy to use.
Some of that is in the tote and knob design of course, and I keep wondering
whether to experiment by fitting a square knob to a Bailey pattern body. "


I did this some years ago, with a Type 15 #3 that had the most ghastly
replacement handles I have ever seen. I used walnut for a square front grip with
deep grooves around it, but I never got around to replacing the rear grip. I
like the comfort of the front bun, since I like to get my weight over the plane
and push downward, and I think it looks good; but walnut didn't add much weight
to a plane that isn't all that heavy to start with. This is the #3 I would use
when I use one, since my conventional Type 11 #3 has a trashed sole; someday I
have to get around to replacing that grotesque amateurish oak tote. But over the
years I shifted gradually to block planes, wooden smoothers, and much bigger
Stanleys.  At this point my go-to for a final finish, if my planes were sharp
and my bench clear (yeah, sure!) would probably be a #6. In practice I use
whichever block plane was sharpened recently.

Tom Conroy
Berkeley