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267282 Darrell & Kathy <larchmont@s...> 2018‑12‑05 cherry picture frames
Galoots,

It's time to start a long-delayed project (and no it is not
time to finish off those chairs) some picture frames for
some of the art work we have acquired recently.  These
are mostly illuminated scrolls for SCA awards, plus a
couple of Letters of Marque.   Good stuff for our walls.

I pulled a nice looking piece of cherry from the wood rack
hoping to get something with reasonably straight plain
grain.  I will be planing moldings in both directions on
this stuff, so I want it as bland as possible.  Pretty grain
means tearout, and I don't want to be sanding this stuff.

I face and edge jointed the stock, which wasn't too much
of a chore as the lumber was bandsawn and quite nice
to start with.  I stuffed it into the magick box that makes
thin wood out of thick wood, and proceeded to rip it into
strips on the bandsaur.  'Nuff said about that aspect of
the process.

Time to pick the best edge for the ovolo, and put the
rebate on the opposite face.  I have square dog holes
as near to the edge of the bench as I could get them.
This makes planing narrow stock like this at least
possible.  It's still tricky sometimes.

The vise dog is way out on one corner of the vise jaw.
And I am sure to hear the shrill wingeing of the Anti
Jaw Racking League up and down the virtual street
when they see this:

http://galootopedia.com/old-tools_wiki/images/9/95/CherryFrames1.jpg

Fie upon them, I say!  I've racked this little vise for
nigh on a decade and it works just fine, thank you.
The bog standard Stanley #78 (iron fillister plane, Jeff)
works well on this bland cherry.

The next bit of fun is to put the molding planes to work.
I got all the ovolos finished tonight, and started on the
beads.  My hands are not used to pushing these planes
so I have a few more yards of bead to run.  If I'm diligent
I can get this done before the Galoot BBQ.  And clean the
shop (again!).

http://galootopedia.com/old-tools_wiki/images/e/e7/CherryFrames2.jpg

There are a few little rough spots where the grain went
awry on me, but I can probably scrape and burnish these
out.  The real fun will begin when I start trying to mitre
this stuff.  I wonder if that ambient air cleaner will take
care of the vile curses that will be floating around in the
shop when I am working on that job?

Darrell
Anyone else sent off their Galootaclaus packages?

-- 
Darrell LaRue
Oakville ON
Wood Hoarder, Blade Sharpener, and Occasional Tool User
267293 Michael Suwczinsky <nicknaylo@g...> 2018‑12‑08 Re: cherry picture frames
Even the bland, easy molding cherry will age and darken nicely, Good choice!

Michael-working on Galootaclaus with out of town family visiting

On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 7:10 PM Darrell & Kathy 
wrote:

> Galoots,
>
> It's time to start a long-delayed project (and no it is not
> time to finish off those chairs) some picture frames for
> some of the art work we have acquired recently.  These
> are mostly illuminated scrolls for SCA awards, plus a
> couple of Letters of Marque.   Good stuff for our walls.
>
> I pulled a nice looking piece of cherry from the wood rack
> hoping to get something with reasonably straight plain
> grain.  I will be planing moldings in both directions on
> this stuff, so I want it as bland as possible.  Pretty grain
> means tearout, and I don't want to be sanding this stuff.
>
> The real fun will begin when I start trying to mitre
> this stuff.  I wonder if that ambient air cleaner will take
> care of the vile curses that will be floating around in the
> shop when I am working on that job?
>
> Darrell
> Anyone else sent off their Galootaclaus packages?
>
> --
>
-- 
Michael
267297 Christopher Dunn <christopherdunn123@g...> 2018‑12‑08 Re: cherry picture frames
Darrell

The frame looks great so far! Please post some a pictures when your
done. I was going to make some frames, and would like to see how yours
turned out.

Thank you,
Chris
267307 Bill Ghio 2018‑12‑09 Re: cherry picture frames
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 6:15 PM, Christopher Dunn  wrote:
> 
> Darrell
> 
> The frame looks great so far! Please post some a pictures when your
> done. I was going to make some frames, and would like to see how yours
> turned out.

I have always been reluctant to trust mitered joints that are only glued. Many
people put splines in mitered corners but w/o a table saw that is a PITA. I use
a fat dowel across the joint that doesn’t show. This is truly a case where a
picture is worth a 1000 words. I am not sure but I believe this idea came out of
FWW a few years ago.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../46195258962/

It is just another way to increase the glue surface and if you orient your grain
properly it will add a bit of strength to the joint.

Here I used it in a box -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../46195258912/in/photostream/

And the dowel (in this case turned on the lathe so woods would match) is a
decorative element on the inside of the lid -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../44428873760/in/photostream/

Bill
267309 scott grandstaff <scottg@s...> 2018‑12‑10 Re: cherry picture frames
I use a fat dowel across the joint that doesn’t show. This is truly a 
case where a picture is worth a 1000 words.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../46195258962/

  That is an interesting joint for a box. Intriguing

  Pictures on canvas and their frames don't see a lot of rough service though.
I have always just gone with glue and honest brads. Regular old school hammered
brads you get loose by the pound (if you can still get any fastener loose by the
pound anymore, except maybe drywall screws.)
   There is something traditional about it. Neatly set brads done in a
workmanlike manner. They hold basically forever
or until you drop them at height.
   And if you do that, you would be on your own anyway. The joints may be the
least of your problems!! haahaha

   If its a super fancy picture I might set and fill the brads.
  Learning to paint your way around trouble is important to a craftsman.... lol
You can match well enough.

I once even raised a curl (like those rare Stanley chisel holders do) and put my
brad in the divot, and then glued the curl back down. So its possible to do
that.
  This is a monumental pain btw. No wonder the chisel holders are rare.
  It better by damn be Leonardo!!  haahahahah

  So
    The point of this post
  Sorry Darrell. I do have to rag you about your poor vise.

But really its something for you.
   
A racking vise is not only bad for the vise, it holds your work poorly!! God
knows I did it for years.
  You can work that way but its slippy and unsteady ready to fail at any second.

But if you break down and make a couple/three vise crutches...........(yeah I'm
sure there is a name for these spacers, but I don't remember it)

Takes practically seconds to make one once you determine to do it.
  

  Anyway, when your vise has something to --really-- get its mouth on?
     whoa!!
  Hey the outside corner of the vise might as well be the very center over top
of the screw!
   It bites!! Suddenly you are in a whole different league for workholding.

  Some scraps of any wood or plywood etc, a piece of allthread 
and............bam

  Now, make it bright enough to see across the room, because you will 
need that eventually. lol

I used 4, 3/4" strips and 3, 1/4" strips.  It gives me lots of combinations

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/visecrutch1.jpg

I guess they are about 4" X 1 1/4" maybe?? It was scrap off the floor I 
just grabbed whatever was closest

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/visecrutch2.jpg

And this is why you care.
  This vise has got that little stick in a deathgrip!!
  Its hanging off the corner of the vise, but its 100 times sturdier 
clamped than it would be without the "crutch" (dammit I know there is a 
better name for this) heeheh

http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/visecrutch3.jpg
yours Scott

-- 
*******************************
    Scott Grandstaff
    Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca  96039
    scottg@s...
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html
267313 Christopher Dunn <christopherdunn123@g...> 2018‑12‑10 Re: cherry picture frames
Bill

When I first saw the dowel solution I said to myself there's no way
that would hold, it's still an end grain joint. After mulling it over
for a day, it makes sense. It's a big fat dowel, so yes there is some
portion of the joint that is end grain to long grain and it has no
strength, but some of the joint is long grain to long grain, which
should be strong. I've got to say, it's a clever idea that simplifies
assembly.

Last time I made picture frames I used splines I hand cut and then
paired. The splines fit well when dry, not so well when wet. Perhaps
it was too much glue, but it was difficult to get them in the bottom
of the groove without beating the heck out of it.

Does anyone know what picture framers did back in the day? Hide glue?
Mechanical fasteners?

Thanks,
Chris
267314 Bill Ghio 2018‑12‑10 Re: cherry picture frames
> On Dec 10, 2018, at 12:07 PM, Christopher Dunn 
wrote:
> 
> Bill
> 
> When I first saw the dowel solution I said to myself there's no way
> that would hold, it's still an end grain joint. After mulling it over
> for a day, it makes sense. It's a big fat dowel, so yes there is some
> portion of the joint that is end grain to long grain and it has no
> strength, but some of the joint is long grain to long grain, which
> should be strong. I've got to say, it's a clever idea that simplifies
> assembly.

I didn’t realize till now that I had used the wrong word. I don’t use dowels.
More like plugs. I alluded to that where I said:

"And the dowel (in this case turned on the lathe so woods would match) is a
decorative element on the inside of the lid -
https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../44428873760/in/photostream/ “


I knew what I meant but no one else would. I take scrap, oriented w/ the grain
across the width rather than along the length. Turn it to size in the lathe.
Then orient the grain across  the joint (i.e., 90 degrees to the miter) so there
is long grain to long grain to glue. it's cross grain, but of course wood
movement is not a issue at these dimensions.

Hope that is clearer.

Bill
267317 Nichael Cramer <nichael@s...> 2018‑12‑10 Re: half-lap miter joints? [was: cherry picture frames]
At 03:27 PM 12/10/2018, Nichael Cramer wrote:
>So long as we're on the topic, how are folks on half-lap miter joints:
>
>http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/build-stronger-frames-half-lap-miter-joints/
>(I'm not recommending the power tools.  I just chose this link only 
>because the pictures are clear).

P.S.  Just to be clear, in my case, I always glue the miters together, not
screwed together like in the link (i.e. there's a nice wide glue-surface). --N
267318 Nichael Cramer <nichael@s...> 2018‑12‑10 Re: half-lap miter joints? [was: cherry picture frames]
P.P.S.

...and so long as we're talking about 
nice-looking-but-hand-tool-friendly picture frames,
how about half-lap joints (with the ends sticking out proud):

https://www.twistedwoodshop.com/projects/2018/4/25/wood-picture-frame-
using-half-lap-joints">https://www.twistedwoodshop.com/projects/2018/4/25/wood-
picture-frame-using-half-lap-joints
(Again, the I'm using the link only because of the pictures.
Not necessarily recommending any of the techniques, etc.)

I don't know anything about how well the art work Darrell
mentioned in his earlier note would work with something like this,
but it can have a nice "rustic" feel to it.  Cherry's nice of course,
but it can also look real pretty with things like pine.

N
267321 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2018‑12‑11 Re: half-lap miter joints? [was: cherry picture frames]
I an not a big fan of Paul Sellars, but he does have some good ideas.  One of
his good ideas is a little jig made form scrap to guide his chisel when making
tenons and mortic(s)es.  He has a video on tenoned miter joints, much like they
have on wooden stretchers for canvas that come KD.  One of the bad things on his
site is no search function, so you have to go to youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM0NcKZNFfM



Ed Minch
267323 galoot@l... 2018‑12‑11 Re: half-lap miter joints? [was: cherry picture frames]
The frames are for Darrell and Kathy's growing collection of SCA award 
scrolls.  For an example of what goes into a fancier one see 
https://aethelmearcgazette.com/2015/10/06/the-making-of-an-sca-award-scroll/, 
for multiple exemplars google "SCA scroll" images.  Most of the time 
receiving one is a surprise and the design could be anything depending 
on circumstances.  They are generally hand calliged probably with India 
ink, usually rather colorful, the rest is unpredictable.

Think really nice watercolor with possible gold embellishment (ie 
_really_ needs to be matted) although gouache (sp? also water based) is 
also quite likely.

Esther who also has a collection but the frame-making roundtuit hasn't hit yet


Quoting Nichael Cramer :

> P.P.S.
>
> ...and so long as we're talking about 
> nice-looking-but-hand-tool-friendly picture frames,
> how about half-lap joints (with the ends sticking out proud):
>
>
https://www.twistedwoodshop.com/projects/2018/4/25/wood-picture-frame-
using-half-lap-joints[1]">https://www.twistedwoodshop.com/projects/2018/4/25
/wood-picture-frame-using-half-lap-joints[1]
> (Again, the I'm using the link only because of the pictures.
> Not necessarily recommending any of the techniques, etc.)
>
> I don't know anything about how well the art work Darrell
> mentioned in his earlier note would work with something like this,
> but it can have a nice "rustic" feel to it.  Cherry's nice of
course,
> but it can also look real pretty with things like pine.
>
> N
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Links:
------
[1] 
https://www.twistedwoodshop.com/projects/2018/4/25/wood-picture-frame-
using-half-lap-joints">https://www.twistedwoodshop.com/projects/2018/4/25/wood-
picture-frame-using-half-lap-joints
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