OldTools Archive
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267282 | Darrell & Kathy <larchmont@s...> | 2018‑12‑05 | cherry picture frames |
Galoots, It's time to start a long-delayed project (and no it is not time to finish off those chairs) some picture frames for some of the art work we have acquired recently. These are mostly illuminated scrolls for SCA awards, plus a couple of Letters of Marque. Good stuff for our walls. I pulled a nice looking piece of cherry from the wood rack hoping to get something with reasonably straight plain grain. I will be planing moldings in both directions on this stuff, so I want it as bland as possible. Pretty grain means tearout, and I don't want to be sanding this stuff. I face and edge jointed the stock, which wasn't too much of a chore as the lumber was bandsawn and quite nice to start with. I stuffed it into the magick box that makes thin wood out of thick wood, and proceeded to rip it into strips on the bandsaur. 'Nuff said about that aspect of the process. Time to pick the best edge for the ovolo, and put the rebate on the opposite face. I have square dog holes as near to the edge of the bench as I could get them. This makes planing narrow stock like this at least possible. It's still tricky sometimes. The vise dog is way out on one corner of the vise jaw. And I am sure to hear the shrill wingeing of the Anti Jaw Racking League up and down the virtual street when they see this: http://galootopedia.com/old-tools_wiki/images/9/95/CherryFrames1.jpg Fie upon them, I say! I've racked this little vise for nigh on a decade and it works just fine, thank you. The bog standard Stanley #78 (iron fillister plane, Jeff) works well on this bland cherry. The next bit of fun is to put the molding planes to work. I got all the ovolos finished tonight, and started on the beads. My hands are not used to pushing these planes so I have a few more yards of bead to run. If I'm diligent I can get this done before the Galoot BBQ. And clean the shop (again!). http://galootopedia.com/old-tools_wiki/images/e/e7/CherryFrames2.jpg There are a few little rough spots where the grain went awry on me, but I can probably scrape and burnish these out. The real fun will begin when I start trying to mitre this stuff. I wonder if that ambient air cleaner will take care of the vile curses that will be floating around in the shop when I am working on that job? Darrell Anyone else sent off their Galootaclaus packages? -- Darrell LaRue Oakville ON Wood Hoarder, Blade Sharpener, and Occasional Tool User |
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267293 | Michael Suwczinsky <nicknaylo@g...> | 2018‑12‑08 | Re: cherry picture frames |
Even the bland, easy molding cherry will age and darken nicely, Good choice! Michael-working on Galootaclaus with out of town family visiting On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 7:10 PM Darrell & Kathy |
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267297 | Christopher Dunn <christopherdunn123@g...> | 2018‑12‑08 | Re: cherry picture frames |
Darrell The frame looks great so far! Please post some a pictures when your done. I was going to make some frames, and would like to see how yours turned out. Thank you, Chris |
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267307 | Bill Ghio | 2018‑12‑09 | Re: cherry picture frames |
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 6:15 PM, Christopher Dunn |
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267309 | scott grandstaff <scottg@s...> | 2018‑12‑10 | Re: cherry picture frames |
I use a fat dowel across the joint that doesn’t show. This is truly a case where a picture is worth a 1000 words. https://www.flickr.com/photos/77280442@N.../46195258962/ That is an interesting joint for a box. Intriguing Pictures on canvas and their frames don't see a lot of rough service though. I have always just gone with glue and honest brads. Regular old school hammered brads you get loose by the pound (if you can still get any fastener loose by the pound anymore, except maybe drywall screws.) There is something traditional about it. Neatly set brads done in a workmanlike manner. They hold basically forever or until you drop them at height. And if you do that, you would be on your own anyway. The joints may be the least of your problems!! haahaha If its a super fancy picture I might set and fill the brads. Learning to paint your way around trouble is important to a craftsman.... lol You can match well enough. I once even raised a curl (like those rare Stanley chisel holders do) and put my brad in the divot, and then glued the curl back down. So its possible to do that. This is a monumental pain btw. No wonder the chisel holders are rare. It better by damn be Leonardo!! haahahahah So The point of this post Sorry Darrell. I do have to rag you about your poor vise. But really its something for you. A racking vise is not only bad for the vise, it holds your work poorly!! God knows I did it for years. You can work that way but its slippy and unsteady ready to fail at any second. But if you break down and make a couple/three vise crutches...........(yeah I'm sure there is a name for these spacers, but I don't remember it) Takes practically seconds to make one once you determine to do it. Anyway, when your vise has something to --really-- get its mouth on? whoa!! Hey the outside corner of the vise might as well be the very center over top of the screw! It bites!! Suddenly you are in a whole different league for workholding. Some scraps of any wood or plywood etc, a piece of allthread and............bam Now, make it bright enough to see across the room, because you will need that eventually. lol I used 4, 3/4" strips and 3, 1/4" strips. It gives me lots of combinations http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/visecrutch1.jpg I guess they are about 4" X 1 1/4" maybe?? It was scrap off the floor I just grabbed whatever was closest http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/visecrutch2.jpg And this is why you care. This vise has got that little stick in a deathgrip!! Its hanging off the corner of the vise, but its 100 times sturdier clamped than it would be without the "crutch" (dammit I know there is a better name for this) heeheh http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/images/shop%20pix/visecrutch3.jpg yours Scott -- ******************************* Scott Grandstaff Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca 96039 scottg@s... http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/ http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html |
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267313 | Christopher Dunn <christopherdunn123@g...> | 2018‑12‑10 | Re: cherry picture frames |
Bill When I first saw the dowel solution I said to myself there's no way that would hold, it's still an end grain joint. After mulling it over for a day, it makes sense. It's a big fat dowel, so yes there is some portion of the joint that is end grain to long grain and it has no strength, but some of the joint is long grain to long grain, which should be strong. I've got to say, it's a clever idea that simplifies assembly. Last time I made picture frames I used splines I hand cut and then paired. The splines fit well when dry, not so well when wet. Perhaps it was too much glue, but it was difficult to get them in the bottom of the groove without beating the heck out of it. Does anyone know what picture framers did back in the day? Hide glue? Mechanical fasteners? Thanks, Chris |
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267314 | Bill Ghio | 2018‑12‑10 | Re: cherry picture frames |
> On Dec 10, 2018, at 12:07 PM, Christopher Dunn |
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267317 | Nichael Cramer <nichael@s...> | 2018‑12‑10 | Re: half-lap miter joints? [was: cherry picture frames] |
At 03:27 PM 12/10/2018, Nichael Cramer wrote: >So long as we're on the topic, how are folks on half-lap miter joints: > >http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/build-stronger-frames-half-lap-miter-joints/ >(I'm not recommending the power tools. I just chose this link only >because the pictures are clear). P.S. Just to be clear, in my case, I always glue the miters together, not screwed together like in the link (i.e. there's a nice wide glue-surface). --N |
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267318 | Nichael Cramer <nichael@s...> | 2018‑12‑10 | Re: half-lap miter joints? [was: cherry picture frames] |
P.P.S. ...and so long as we're talking about nice-looking-but-hand-tool-friendly picture frames, how about half-lap joints (with the ends sticking out proud): https://www.twistedwoodshop.com/projects/2018/4/25/wood-picture-frame- using-half-lap-joints">https://www.twistedwoodshop.com/projects/2018/4/25/wood- picture-frame-using-half-lap-joints (Again, the I'm using the link only because of the pictures. Not necessarily recommending any of the techniques, etc.) I don't know anything about how well the art work Darrell mentioned in his earlier note would work with something like this, but it can have a nice "rustic" feel to it. Cherry's nice of course, but it can also look real pretty with things like pine. N |
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267321 | Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> | 2018‑12‑11 | Re: half-lap miter joints? [was: cherry picture frames] |
I an not a big fan of Paul Sellars, but he does have some good ideas. One of his good ideas is a little jig made form scrap to guide his chisel when making tenons and mortic(s)es. He has a video on tenoned miter joints, much like they have on wooden stretchers for canvas that come KD. One of the bad things on his site is no search function, so you have to go to youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EM0NcKZNFfM Ed Minch |
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267323 | galoot@l... | 2018‑12‑11 | Re: half-lap miter joints? [was: cherry picture frames] |
The frames are for Darrell and Kathy's growing collection of SCA award scrolls. For an example of what goes into a fancier one see https://aethelmearcgazette.com/2015/10/06/the-making-of-an-sca-award-scroll/, for multiple exemplars google "SCA scroll" images. Most of the time receiving one is a surprise and the design could be anything depending on circumstances. They are generally hand calliged probably with India ink, usually rather colorful, the rest is unpredictable. Think really nice watercolor with possible gold embellishment (ie _really_ needs to be matted) although gouache (sp? also water based) is also quite likely. Esther who also has a collection but the frame-making roundtuit hasn't hit yet Quoting Nichael Cramer |
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