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267038 Dan Beck <drumsandbacon@g...> 2018‑11‑12 Stanley No. 55
I've been blessed with a Stanely No. 55 in near perfect shape with all the
cutters and attachments. I've experimented with it a bit and have watched
The Woodwright's Shop episode on the 55 several times (
https://www.pbs.org/video/woodwrights-shop-combination-planes/)

I'm wondering since I have this 55, do I really need a Rabbet Plane?
267040 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2018‑11‑12 Re: Stanley No. 55
The 55 will do things that no other plane will do.  Roy’s explanation is not th
ebest,- just play aroubd and you will get the big picture.  Just adjust the 2
fences to contain either side of the piece of molding you are working on, then
slide the center section back and forth to the right location, put in the right
blade at the right depth with the right support, and run that section.  Then
move it over and run the next section.

If all you want to do is run edge rabbets, then a Stanley 78 (better a Record
778 because of the 2 fence supports) will suffice, as well as a simple skewed-
blade woody.

If you want general small rabetting duty, try a Stanley 50 - much lighter, and
easy to set up and use

The 55 is a curiosity, IMHO

Ed Minch
267041 Tim <tpendleton@g...> 2018‑11‑12 Re: Stanley No. 55
Seasoned, and possibly grizzled, galoots adhere to the specialized form of
Feng sui known as Galoot sui.  This special form of the discipline suggests
that several of all possible versions of a tool are necessary to balance
the energy of a shop.

Just to be safe, you should get several.

Tim
267042 Dan Beck <drumsandbacon@g...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
Ed,

Thanks for the info. I've been looking at the Stanley no. 78 but I've heard
several people complain about the fence and I've also heard it has trouble
with hardwoods. Can anyone here confirm or deny this? The Record 778 looks
great and (as you mention) addresses the fence issue, but I have yet to
find one for sale in person. I'd love to get my hands on a Veritas Skew
Rabbet plane (and will eventually someday) but for now, I can't justify the
expense. Which leads me back to wondering if should worry about getting a
rabbet plane (until I finally pony up for the Veritas) since I have the
Stanley no. 55.

-Dan
267043 Dan Beck <drumsandbacon@g...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
Tim,

This is EXACTLY what I'm trying to avoid!

-Dan

PS - but you're right, just to be safe I prob will end up with several of
each... lol.
267044 Don Schwartz <dks@t...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
On 2018-11-12 8:16 PM, Dan Beck wrote:
> Ed,
>
> Thanks for the info. I've been looking at the Stanley no. 78 but I've heard
> several people complain about the fence and I've also heard it has trouble
> with hardwoods. Can anyone here confirm or deny this? The Record 778 looks
> great and (as you mention) addresses the fence issue, but I have yet to
> find one for sale in person.

I know it maybe runs against the grain in this august company, but I 
suggest you work with what you have until it doesn't work for you 
anymore. And save your pennies for when that day comes. And if it 
doesn't happen, you'll have a pile of pennies!

FWIW

Don

-- 
Let's make Norheim great again. ( Norsemen )

I am not going bloody bald. I have a very big brain. ( Upstart Crow )

I am not going bald. I have very low eyebrows. ( Upstart Crow )
267045 Kirk Eppler <eppler.kirk@g...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
On Mon, Nov 12, 2018, 7:21 PM Dan Beck  Ed,
>
> Thanks for the info. I've been looking at the Stanley no. 78 but I've heard
> several people complain about the fence and I've also heard it has trouble
> with hardwoods.
>
>
>
>


Personally, I'd go with his other suggestion of a skew Woodie rabbet
> plane.  I find mine cut much better than my 78.


Kirk in HMB, CA, where the smoke in the air is still unhealthy.
267046 Nichael Cramer <nichael@s...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
Dan Beck wrote:
>[...]
>I'm wondering since I have this 55, do I really need a Rabbet Plane?

My two cents is yes.

I'd look at it this way.  The problem is that if you had only the 55
but no other rabbet plane, and you needed to do a bit of rabbet-ing
--even a couple quick strokes-- this means you'd need to break down
the 55 from whatever configuration it was in, set it up to the rabbet-work,
and then next time you wanted to do something that involved the 55
set it back up to do this.

Or to put this another way:  There are specialized things a 55 can do
quite well. most notably cut a wide assortment of mouldings.
But OTOH a 55 will never work as well for the "normal" jobs
--e.g. rabbets, plow, etc-- as a well tuned dedicated plane of
the appropriate type.

(While I don't have 55 a do have a 45 with a spare body.  I basically
reserve one body as a "semi-dedicated" dado plane.  Saves me from
acquiring a stack of those, as well as giving me a nice assortment of
sizes.  But I can't imaging not having the rest of a standard arsenal
of planes.)

Any way, that's just my opinion.  I think the best advice was Don's.
Take it out for a spin and see how it works for you.  If it works for
you great.  But if not, it'll help you get a good idea of what you're
looking for if you do decide to get a dedicated rabbet plane.

N
(P.S.  Oh yeah.  Congratulations on the great get.)
267047 Bill Ghio 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
> On Nov 13, 2018, at 10:03 AM, Nichael Cramer  wrote:
> 
> Dan Beck wrote:
>> [...]
>> I'm wondering since I have this 55, do I really need a Rabbet Plane?
> 

Sold my 55 and 45 years ago as too fiddily. I have a couple of widths in woody
rebate planes that get most use. Love my #50 for grooves and sprung for the Lee
Valley Skew Rabbet Plane a few years ago. It is a wonderful plane but I usually
use it to start a rabbet, then once established hog off material w/ a woody till
close to depth, use the Skew Rabbet Plane to finish up square and tidy. If I had
to go w/ just one it would be a woody.

Bill
267048 <gtgrouch@r...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
For rebate or dado work, I suggest you consider using a #46.  With its skewed
blade, the #46 is very effective at cutting rebates: more effective in my
experience than a #45 or a #55 and on a par with wooden rebate planes with a
skewed iron.  They're a little more expensive than a #45 but well worth the
money.

YMMV, Gary Katsanis
Albion New York, USA

 
---- Kirk Eppler  wrote: 

=============
On Mon, Nov 12, 2018, 7:21 PM Dan Beck  Ed,
>
> Thanks for the info. I've been looking at the Stanley no. 78 but I've heard
> several people complain about the fence and I've also heard it has trouble
> with hardwoods.
>
>
>
>


Personally, I'd go with his other suggestion of a skew Woodie rabbet
> plane.  I find mine cut much better than my 78.


Kirk in HMB, CA, where the smoke in the air is still unhealthy.
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267049 "yorkshireman@y..." <yorkshireman@y...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
— errm, this got longer than intended - sorry. -


Dan says blessed, but is it a curse?  

> On 12 Nov 2018, at 21:35, Dan Beck  wrote:
> 
> I've been blessed with a Stanely No. 55 in near perfect shape with all the
(snip)
> I'm wondering since I have this 55, do I really need a Rabbet Plane?


Entirely serendipitiously  (sp)  last night I spent the evening with a fellow
bodger, a man widely envied by his fellow local bodgers for his four (count
them) sheds.  He is under the cosh to complete a coffee table for Christmas for
his daughter.  The necessary time having elapsed (a year and ten months) he’s
made a start, and a discussion about how he was to attach the top led to him
coming here.

He’s a greenwood man.  If It’s growing and can be coppiced, he’s the bloke.  If
it’s planked, seasoned, needs to be jointed and french polished, he’s at the
start of the slope.

So the idea was that the still slightly green beech slab for the top was to sit
atop a simple frame of 4 legs, 4 rails.  Dead simple to make with a limited
toolchest that doesn't yet boast a full till.  I suggested that, rather than
screwing through the rails, a better option would be buttons and a groove in the
rails.  We were in the workshop for him to run the grooves.  The first weapon of
choice was of course  a record 43, then a Stanley 50 (plough planes in
increasing sizes, Jeff)  The 50 has more gizmocity than a 43, but the wider
blade was the right option.  This led to talk of 45’s and 55’s  (You see, I got
back to the question) and I waved at the shelves of moulders and said   'The
even more fancy planes like 45 and 55’s were claimed to replace the shelves of
moulding planes.  Which they will do, but the cash saved when buying planes is
spent in time used to set up the plane.  The old boys using them daily were able
to set them up to run better, by dint of practice, and the timber they had was
clearer, straighter grain often.  As with most things in what we do,  It’s the
skill and knowledge you bring to the work that is most telling, and that extends
to knowing how to tune a plane, and how to make it sharp.

So to the 778  (Rebate plane, Jeff)   Which happened to be hiding near he left
knee when I pointed out the relative simplicity of it, compared to even the 50,
You really cant beat the facility of the dedicated plane - by all means a skew
or straight wooden rebate plane, but the 778, set up with a wooden addition to
the fence and leather pad on the depth stop to prevent damage to the work and a
truly sharp blade, is the go to tool for a rebate.  Omit the padding if you only
work on cruder jobs of course.

The big question for you is really  “What work am I expecting to do?”  
If you will need to work many rebates to get jobs competed and out of the door -
buy a 778.  Not a 78.  I have both.  The 78 is for sale.  Single arm fences are
an abomination against nature.  Avoid them.  Far too easy to apply pressure to
skew the body a tad - enough to give a ragged, worn edge to the rebate where you
should have a crisp arris.

If you don’t know what you will do, or you have many profiles to cut,or few pure
rebates,  then practice with the 55.  Find some clear softwood, and practice
with different blades and set up the tool for everything you can think of,  tune
the cutters, the fences, the depth stops, the nickers until your 55 sings to
you.  You’ll experience a deep satisfaction.  Oh - and of course you need to
introduce hardwoods as test pieces once you have the basics down.  A whole
‘nuther country when you start mouldings and even rebates in hardwood after too
log at the silly soft stuff.

Summary
‘What work do I want/need to accomplish?
What’s the best tool for that job?
and the answers tell you if you’re buying (being blessed) for the inner glow of
ownership and tool knowledge or for facility.


Just say(tm)  the 778 is one of those tools that will be in my cold, dead hand.

Richard Wilson
Rambling along in Northumberland.
267050 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
Well said, Richard

I have looked at a few †hings by Paul Sellars, and he did a discussion of the
78.  He said this:


 Two makers I know have made this plane with only one difference and that is
adding an extra bar to make twin bar rigidity to the fence. In actuality this
makes little or no difference to functionality unless you are prone to overly
bulldogging the plane to the wood and break the fence itself.


Is bulldogging just being overly aggressive?  The only time I have a problem
wi†h the single bar is when the bar comes loose and spins between stroke and the
fence goes cattywompuss.  The whole discussion is here:

https://paulsellers.com/2016/05/rebate-plane-no1-78-filletster-plane/

Ed Minch
267052 Don Schwartz <dks@t...> 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
On 2018-11-13 8:47 AM, yorkshireman@y... wrote:
> So to the 778  (Rebate plane, Jeff)   Which happened to be hiding near he left
knee when I pointed out the relative simplicity of it, compared to even the 50,
You really cant beat the facility of the dedicated plane - by all means a skew
or straight wooden rebate plane, but the 778, set up with a wooden addition to
the fence and leather pad on the depth stop to prevent damage to the work and a
truly sharp blade, is the go to tool for a rebate.  Omit the padding if you only
work on cruder jobs of course.
Good idea, that padding.
>
> The big question for you is really  “What work am I expecting to do?”
> If you will need to work many rebates to get jobs competed and out of the door
- buy a 778.  Not a 78.
Woden W78 maybe? Nice big wooden front knob, dual-arm fence and a good 
adjustment lever.

Don


-- 
Let's make Norheim great again. ( Norsemen )

I am not going bloody bald. I have a very big brain. ( Upstart Crow )

I am not going bald. I have very low eyebrows. ( Upstart Crow )
267055 Erik Levin 2018‑11‑13 Re: Stanley No. 55
Not having a #55, I can not speak directly to it, but I do get a some miles out
of my #45. For rabbets, I use a rabbet plane. Much easier with a dedicated plane
I am in custody of several (ok, too many) rabbet planes (Stanley #85s, Millers
Falls, a Lee Valley skew (gift to myself a few years ago), a Craftsman  branded
(Millers falls, I think), and a few woodies), setup is much easier than the
does-all, and the result, frankly, is better.


As to what Ed said:


> The only time I have a problem wi†h the single bar is when the bar comes
> loose and spins between stroke and the fence goes cattywompuss.


I didn't expect this when I first used an 85, figuring the fence was well
protected by being under the sole. When it happened, and I figured it was an
aberration. It happened again, so out came the loctite blue. Hasn't happened
since. I am also careful to set the fence such that the back support is in
contact with the sole.


I do tend to use the Lee Valley skew the most, though, because it is a skew, or
the Craftsman when going fenceless (it didn't come with one and I have not
bothered rectifying... I paid $1 for it, IIRC, about 10-- 15?-- years ago. I
don't know. At least one house ago.) The woodies don't get a lot of use
because..... they are less accessible, maybe.


*** This message was sent from a convenience email service, and the reply
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267068 Dan Beck <drumsandbacon@g...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
Lots of great info here and things to think about. Thank you one and all.
Based on all of your feedback, I am going to hold out for either a Lee
Valley skew or a 778, set up like Don suggests (with a wooden addition to
the fence and leather pad on the depth stop).

Wow, I thought it might be dangerous to join this list because I thought it
would encourage me to buy lots of tools that I don't really need. But
you've all talked me out of buying one today (well, delaying the purchase,
I guess).
267070 Don Schwartz <dks@t...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
On 2018-11-13 9:06 PM, Dan Beck wrote:
> set up like Don suggests (with a wooden addition to
> the fence and leather pad on the depth stop

I'd like to take the credit for it, but that was Richard's post.

It's always worth saving your pennies, waiting until you actually need a 
tool (not that I've done that very much) - or until you happen upon 
something bright and shiny!

Don

-- 
Let's make Norheim great again. ( Norsemen )

I am not going bloody bald. I have a very big brain. ( Upstart Crow )

I am not going bald. I have very low eyebrows. ( Upstart Crow )
267071 "yorkshireman@y..." <yorkshireman@y...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
Morning all

weather report first for a change - grey clouded weather front heading out to
sea about 5 miles south of here in the pre dawn. SWMBO is headed in that
direction in another hour.  I’m headed to the workshop for a sharpening morning…


To the rebaye planes.
I read the Sellars article.  Some sensible pointers on the set up, and I’d
recommend it for that.  It seems that he was brought up with the 78, and I’m
tempted to say ‘of course he has the feel for using it.  We can all use the most
fragile of tools if we have the feel, and respect their frailties.  I’ll stick
to my first statement though, in that the two arm models are superior, in an
engineering sense, to the single arm models.  With the two side by side, try
flexing the fence a little.  the 778 stays rock solid, the 78 sways a little.
If you apply pressure to the fence at the arm, then this will be fine.  If you
have no master to teach you how to hold and use it, then you will be better
served with the 778. or the W78.  I agree with Sellars that the addition of the
knob isn’t needed, but again, if you have no master to tech the apprentice?
(discussing rebate planes, Jeff)

Incidentally, Record also made, for a while, a single arm version of the 043,
the 041, along the same lines as a 78 with a fence secured by a single arm.  It
has the same trouble, though as we are the same size, and the arm is smaller
than the 78’s arms, the flex is more noticeable.  The 043 has it.  A swift
groove for a ply drawer or box bottom - the 043.  Same as the 041, but more
forgiving of a galoot in a hurry and applying pressure and a coarse cut.

Richard Wilson
a Galoot up in t’ North, at the edge of the debateable border lands.
267072 paul womack <pwomack@p...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
Don Schwartz wrote:

>
> It's always worth saving your pennies, waiting until you actually need a tool
(not that I've done that very much) - or until you happen upon something bright
and shiny!

No. I cannot let that stand.

If you want to buy tools for cheap, you have to buy them when you see 'em cheap,
'cos it doesn't happen very often.

Obviously, this strategy leads to a large stash of tools, but that's really just
a side effect.

And certainly not a problem.

No sirree, I don't have a problem, not at all. I could stop any time I wanted.

If I wanted.

  BugBear
267078 Christopher Dunn <christopherdunn123@g...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
Dan

You mentioned you wanted a Veritas Skew rabbet plane. I had one,
didn't like it, and sold it. There were three problems with it.

1. There wasn't a good place to put your off hand, I always put it
between the two posts, and would cut myself on the blade. I ended up
putting a piece of tape over the corner of the blade (usually after
cutting myself and remembering the problem).
2. The center of mass of the plane wasn't above the blade, so the
plane leaned off the work and I could never get a perpendicular cut.
After using skew rabbet plane I ended up using a shoulder plane to fix
it.
3. The adjustment controls drove me nuts. Who in their right mind
wants the left right controls of the iron coupled with up down? I
resorted to hammer taps.

I sold it a few years ago, but bring the plane up whenever my says
tools only enter the house but never leave. I lost money on the deal,
but having a story to counter my wife's argument is way more valuable.

I now use a wooden moving fillister plane, which I like a lot better.

Thanks,
Chris
267080 Nichael Cramer <nichael@s...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
At 09:59 AM 11/14/2018, Christopher Dunn wrote:
>[...]
>I now use a wooden moving fillister plane, which I like a lot better.

Totally agree here.  One of the absolute stars of my plane-shelves.

Also, my experience is that while they're kind of rare out in the wild,
for some reason they don't seem to be particularly sought-after,
consequently the prices seem to reasonable --or, at least 
"not-totally-unreasonable".

The only real problem is that many dealers (at least those over on the 'Bay)
don't seem to know what these are.  For example, it's pretty common
to see. say, a wooden plow plane being advertised as a "moving 
fillister plane:.

(I actually have two.  The first one came intact.  The second one was
missing the bottom-fence, so was dirt cheap and became a DYI project.)

N
267081 Kirk Eppler <eppler.kirk@g...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 7:27 AM Nichael Cramer  wrote:

> Totally agree here.  One of the absolute stars of my plane-shelves.
>
> Also, my experience is that while they're kind of rare out in the wild,
> for some reason they don't seem to be particularly sought-after,
> consequently the prices seem to reasonable --or, at least
> "not-totally-unreasonable".
>

Oops, I think I have 4, all bought for very reasonable prices.  3 were
complete (including Ohio 53 & 55), one needs a minor part, forget which.
 Got a really fancy one in Europe, looks like this one (not mine).  Want it
to be my 1st choice, once I get it tuned.

https://hobelaxt.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/e-m-schaeffeler-rhorn.jpg
-- 
Kirk Eppler in the unhealthy air of HMB, CA
267082 Dan Beck <drumsandbacon@g...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
I'll def keep my eyes open for a wooden moving fillister plane, too.
Although I have to admit that - as Nichael stated about many eBayers - I
may not recognize one when I see one.
267083 Nichael Cramer <nichael@s...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
Dan Beck wrote:
>I'll def keep my eyes open for a wooden moving fillister plane, too.
>Although I have to admit that - as Nichael stated about many eBayers - I
>may not recognize one when I see one.

If anyone's interested, here's a picture of a really spiffy example
on Chirstopher Schwarz's blog:

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/chris-schwarz-blog/essential-
joinery-plane-the-moving-fillister/">https://www.popularwoodworking.com/chris-
schwarz-blog/essential-joinery-plane-the-moving-fillister/

(for one thing, --in addition to the skewed blade-- I just like how 
_solid_ it feels in my hands.)

N
267084 Christopher Dunn <christopherdunn123@g...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
Dan

If you buy a moving fillister...

Make sure the fence is good and tight, it likes to wander. I tend to
take light cuts with it at first, because if the iron is set too rank
it forces you to push hard, which tends to shift the fence. Once I'm a
little deeper and have a wall to keep the plane on track, I'll extend
the iron.

Thanks,
Chris
267085 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
> On Nov 14, 2018, at 12:37 PM, Nichael Cramer  wrote:
> 
>> I'll def keep my eyes open for a wooden moving fillister plane, too.


I have never gotten a good definition of a fillister plane.  Is this one, from
the Schwarz:



Moving fillisters are different than other planes in the rabbeting family in
that its fence is adjustable (planes with a fixed fence are called standing
fillisters), plus it can work across the grain because it has retractable
nickers (planes without the nickers are just plain old rabbet planes).



The definition does not include a name for a rabbet plane with a nicker - dado
plane?  Is a rabetting style plane with a fence, moving or non-moving, always a
fillister?

Ed
267087 Dan Beck <drumsandbacon@g...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
This is awesome - thanks!
267088 Bill Ghio 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
> On Nov 14, 2018, at 9:59 AM, Christopher Dunn  wrote:
> 
> Dan
> 
> You mentioned you wanted a Veritas Skew rabbet plane. I had one,
> didn't like it, and sold it. There were three problems with it
> 
> 1. There wasn't a good place to put your off hand, I always put it
> between the two posts, and would cut myself on the blade. I ended up
> putting a piece of tape over the corner of the blade (usually after
> cutting myself and remembering the problem).

I have never experienced this. There is a front knob for the off hand. Chris
Schwarz thinks it makes you off balance and recommends removing it. I find it
works just fine.

> 2. The center of mass of the plane wasn't above the blade, so the
> plane leaned off the work and I could never get a perpendicular cut.
> After using skew rabbet plane I ended up using a shoulder plane to fix
> it.

I agree it is easy to misalign the cut, but I just set this plane on top of a
3/8” wide by 1 1/2”long edge and at plane center it balanced.

> 3. The adjustment controls drove me nuts. Who in their right mind
> wants the left right controls of the iron coupled with up down?

Maybe yours was not current production? The L/R controls are set screws on the
side of the body separate from the blade adjustment. See: http://www.le
evalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=59999&cat=1,230,41182,48945">http://www.leevalle
y.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=59999&cat=1,230,41182,48945

Bill
267091 Ken Shepard <waruba@c...> 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
I have both the left- and right-hand versions of the Veritas Skew Rabbet
planes and use them constantly.  The one change I made that really improved
the performance was to add a 1-1/4" x 10" wooden fence to the metal fence.
I too had problems with getting a consistent perpendicular cut until I
added the longer, wider fence.  Technique helps, too.  Don't use a
full-fisted death grip; just push the plane with your palm.

Ken

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 4:24 PM Bill Ghio via OldTools <
oldtools@s...> wrote:
267092 Erik Levin 2018‑11‑14 Re: Stanley No. 55
Ken noted:

> Technique helps, too.  Don't use a full-fisted death 
> grip; just push the plane with your palm.


I would agree that statement pretty much covers all hand planes... 


Note that I was not endorsing the Veritas in particular, nor did I intend to
start a debate about utility of a modern manufacture tool. It just happened that
I was looking for a skew rabbet and couldn't find what I wanted for a reasonable
price in the used market, so I spent not much more for a new Canadien unit,
needing no cleaning or tune up.


As for the moving fillister: A few years ago (10-ish?), that was my target.
Couldn't find anything usable for a decent price.



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267093 Christopher Dunn <christopherdunn123@g...> 2018‑11‑15 Re: Stanley No. 55
Ken

After reading Chris Schwarz's article on the skew rabbet I tried
shifting my off hand back from the toe (I left the knob in place), and
felt the plane worked better if you pushed it into the board closer to
the blade (in the middle). It seemed to keep the plane on track
better, as long as you avoided the sharp finger eating thing. The
adjustment that drove me crazy was the Norris adjuster. Every time I
wanted up down I got left right. The longer fence is a good
suggestion. I own several Veriats tools, and they are are all nicely
made, but the skew rabbet wasn't for me.

Ed

In regards to the fillister plane, Knight's "American mechanical
dictionary" says:

Fillister: 1. the rabbet on the outer edge of a sash-bar, to hold the
glass and the putty. 2. A plane for making a rabbet, The variants are
known as side fillisters and sash fillisters. The former is regulated
for depth by a movable stop.

There was no listing for dado plane in the D section or under plane.
So admittedly it's not the most satisfying definition.

A better read is the rabbet plane chapter in Gramam Blackburn's book
"traditional woodworking handtools" where he walks you through the
variants. He defines a  fillister as "a rabbet plane with a fence and
a depth stop. The standing fillister has" ... "a fence that stand
fixed, and no variation in either depth or width. A more useful tool
is a moving fillister whose fence and depth stop, if so fitted (not
all moving fillisters have depth stops), may be moved." In the dado
plane chapter he defines a dado as "a groove that runs across rather
than with the grain", and thus the dado plane is one that cuts that
groove.

Thanks,
Chris
267094 Ed Minch <ruby1638@a...> 2018‑11‑15 Re: Stanley No. 55
> On Nov 14, 2018, at 10:02 PM, Christopher Dunn 
wrote:
> 
> In regards to the fillister plane


Chris

Thanks - no two definitions seem to be the same,but they all hover around rabet
plane with a fence

Ed Minch

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