For the holes, I would tend to a) drill a couple holes at the perimeter to allow
chips to clear if using a hole saw. I do this even when using powered drive,
especially for thicker material (12mm or more wood, 4mm or more metal); b) not
use a hole saw if I can avoid it. I trepannig type cutter-- two cutter style
preferred, with one ground to cut a little deeper to the inside, the other to
the outside, similarly to sharpening a crosscut saw, both with copious side and
back relief-- is a lot easier and will clear chips better. When I use them, I
predrill the center and use a solid guide pin. Then again, I do the same with
hole saws. c) If I must use a hole saw, I might remove every third tooth or so,
both to provide a little more chip clearance, but mostly to increase the tooth-
point pressure so as to prevent the teeth tending to slide. Maybe add a bit more
set to a few of the teeth to widen the kerf and reduce bind tendency, as well.


As to cutting pressure treated: Ya. I feel you on that. Wipe and wax the saw
every cut and, as said, use larger teeth with a lot of set.


If it is bad enough, you might try a Tuttle or Lance pattern crosscut (two or
four slicer teeth, respectively, interspersed with rakers to clear chips,
usually about 36 inches for the one-man, intended for bucking logs). Be sure the
work is firmly held or braced. Not usually considered fine-work tools, but I
keep a 3-footer around and sharp for more than just the occasional storm
cleanup. Porch and sill repairs, for example. Cut from the face of the board,
not the edge, to the extent possible to keep proper tooth engagement using this
type of saw. Cuts can be finished with a standard crosscut hand saw (panel saw)
with course teeth.


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